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Brake bleeding after system overhaul question

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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 01:00 AM
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Default Brake bleeding after system overhaul question

Replaced all four calipers, pads, soft lines, fluid, etc. I bled the brakes in the order I found here on the forum- last: right front. I'm using the Motive pressure bleeder but adding fluid to the master only to avoid any accidental mess. All three other calipers seem bled and bubble free, but this last one is making me question my procedure. I've run at least 20 oz of fluid through it (4 oz at a time to make sure the master stays topped off), but I still get a steady stream fluid at first crack followed by a steady stream of small bubbles in fluid... These couldn't be introduced at the bleeder screw could they? (With the positive pressure- 5lb or so of the Motive I don't see how, but???) Any advice for a brake bleed newbie?
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 01:43 AM
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I just rebuilt my brakes and had trouble with the passenger-side....I think because of the "over/under/around/down/across/up/around" of the brake line, fluid manages to work it's way past the air in the line.

It took me longer to do that caliper than all the others....I even tried a Mighty-Vac to pull 25 "pounds" of vacuum at the bleeder-screw before "cracking'' it...

And I do think air can be drawn past the bleeder screw threads if it is loosened too much when I used the Vac.

Wait for the experts to give you some good advice.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 09:08 AM
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are you bleeding both rear bleeders??
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 09:25 AM
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I've gotten a perfect pedal and still had little bubbles like that at a caliper when using a vac.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 09:39 AM
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I have both rear bleeders bled as well as the front left... Going to try some gravity-feed and then the two-person method today.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SciVette
I have both rear bleeders bled as well as the front left... Going to try some gravity-feed and then the two-person method today.
For some reason, these cars are really tough to bleed the brakes on, unless you're using a pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder! I've tried the gravity feed, the two person method, etc and all I accomplished was spending hours and hours getting dismal results.

Get yourself a vacuum bleeder, with a good vacuum pump gun, some clear tubing and a jar, set up for that (they sell kits, just for that) and you will save yourself a lot of trouble, frustration and beer. And get the good kit too, you get what you pay for. Because your personal time is always worth something.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 10:49 AM
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Did you bench bleed the master?
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 12:04 PM
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i have never used any method except the 2 person(wife behind the wheel) method and always have had great brakes. Never had any problems with the brakes.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lvmyvt76
i have never used any method except the 2 person(wife behind the wheel) method and always have had great brakes. Never had any problems with the brakes.
Yeah, but how about the wife?
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 12:36 PM
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Get yourself a vacuum bleeder, with a good vacuum pump gun, some clear tubing and a jar, set up for that (they sell kits, just for that)



If you have a compressor, Harbor Freight sells a nifty, inexpensive vacuum bottle/kit. Works very well; much easier than hand pumping. Unfortunately, the feed bottle isn't compatible with the older 'Vette/GM master cylinders, so 'liquid refreshment' is rather frequent.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 02:13 PM
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I have never had luck with the two person method on mine. If you use the Motive Pressure system as directed, fluid in the pump tank @ 10-15 psi. Tap (with gusto) the calipers with a rubber mallet while bleeding. You will get all the air out. See Motive's website for instructions for using clamp on master cylinder instead of their chains. Even then put a wad of rags under the mc.
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 07:32 PM
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Further work with the Motive, and I think all air is out. I'll road test later this week. I could still get a small stream of bubbles when the bleeder was barely cracked, but larger turns (or stopping and starting) gave me clear fluid. No idea why.

I did not bench bleed the master but did keep a small amount of fluid in it from the original contents...
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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Been through the same thing, and IMO dry lines and filling them first time damn air bubbles can stick almost anywhere. I didn't think it was a good idea but have heard of many others doing what I did. Reusing the fluid and putting it back in the motive pump container and finally did get great pedal. Before I bought the motive unit, I tried the 2 person pump thing and never got an acceptable pedal.

Mark Smith
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Old Mar 15, 2014 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by flyeri
I have never had luck with the two person method on mine. If you use the Motive Pressure system as directed, fluid in the pump tank @ 10-15 psi. Tap (with gusto) the calipers with a rubber mallet while bleeding. You will get all the air out. See Motive's website for instructions for using clamp on master cylinder instead of their chains. Even then put a wad of rags under the mc.
Exactly
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