engine wont start
If yes, take the cap off and check the rotor - I've had them come loose and not turn (correctly).
Next check the coil - not sure how other than replace.
Even if you had it in wrong you should have spark.
If none of the above works - sounds like time to get our your wallet and throw money at it.
Good luck
Also, a test light will tell you if there's power, but it won't tell you how much! Some of these systems require a full 12V. Some, like points and MSD, go through the resistor or resistor wire to produce 5-6V and please, go on and add to this if you have more info. For our unilite style distributor, we were running it through the resistor wire and 9V made the spark come out very weak. Once we ran it straight to the battery, it cranked right up!
"Check under the distributor cap as well and make sure the spring loaded center terminal for the coil to touch the top of the rotor, is actually not shoved up inside the cap. "
Also what do you mean by this?
Last edited by rrent; Mar 24, 2014 at 04:32 PM.


Gotta have volts to the ignition system before it even works! Trace it back and also check the fuses as well.
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If so, you'll need to pull the cap and be sure nothing in there is wrong.
If it's me - I'd buy a new rotor.
The exact same thing happened to me.
I had the engine of this '73 running, but didn't like the Edelbrock manifold due to the hood clearence issues (plus I wanted to get the engine back to stock looking). So, after installing a GM manifold, replaceing the roller rockers and valve covers with stock, adjusting valve lash, and re-installing the HEI distributor, NO START. It turned over great, but never fired. Got an occasional shot of fuel mist up & out of the carb while cranking.
I slept on it overnight, and it came to me that when I put in the distributor, I installed it with rotor position referenced to #1. But in adjusting valve lash, the engine TDC mark was last positioned for #6 TDC. In other words, I had positioned the distributor 180 degrees out of where it should be.
After repositioning the distributor 180 degrees, I was confident it would start. BUT IT DIDN"T! No more farting fuel mist, but no fire either.
It's in the shop now getting troubleshot, but one other thing that I did to the distributor since it last ran: a new ignition wire source. PO sold me the car without a distributor: Had to buy one. Went with a tach drive HEI. I had ran a new wire to it directly from the fuse box (IGN terminal), and the engine ran. But I hate running new wires. The schematics I have show the distributor power coming off a yellow wire that also feeds the windshield washer pump, but I couldn't find that original yellow distributor wire. So I spliced a wire from the WW pump to the distributor. And I also used the wire/terminal end that came with the distributor (a push-on with a locking tab), dicarding the "new" wire and it's standard push-on female terminal. I should have ran that same fuse block IGN wire to the distributor before I had the car towed to the shop for repair. I may have been able to drive it there, but I'll never know now.

What I'm just saying here, in short novel form, is some of the things that perhaps pertain to you, and that you should check. Once again, sorry for the long post (and the no-solution ending).
Steve
Last edited by Cavu2u; Mar 25, 2014 at 06:56 AM.















