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I am bringing this old 68 back to life after it has sat for 20 + years. The clutch is slipping pretty bad on take off but once you get going it will engage. IS the old clutch and flywheel rusted over or what? Will it burn off or do I need to replace it? If I need to replace it what clutch will hold 450 HP?
If the clutch disc is rusted to the flywheel, it will not disengage. If the clutch is slipping, it is most likely worn out.
But before you R&R the clutch, first check the linkage, for lost motion and freeplay.
Will it burn off or do I need to replace it? If I need to replace it what clutch will hold 450 HP?
Were you able to inspect any portion of the clutch system before you began driving the car? If not, chances are that you will burn the disc-facing on one side or both, if not already.
Were the humidity levels high around the car while it sat for 20+ years? Moist air will attack any non-protected ferrous material (read: iron/steel) into rust and without inspecting that, it's a crap-shoot, not in your favor.
If you decide to replace, select anything equivalent to OEM spec or better. Any name brand will work and you will read which brands from other fans shortly.
Whatever you choose, adjust the sub-system correctly from any good service manual and you should enjoy thousands of miles of trouble-free clutch operation.
Last edited by Dustup7T2; Apr 6, 2014 at 07:03 PM.
Reason: add text
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If you upgraded the motor to 450Hp and used the old stock clutch you need a stronger clutch. THe Mcleod Super street pro works great. If its a good clutch then you can just use 80 or 120 grit sand paperon a block on the flywheel and pressure plate. Then dont do any burnouts or high RPM clutch drops until its broken in. McLeod like about 500 back road miles, no highway because they want them to bed in