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You can get a lot of good help with that here but you'll need to provide some info to work with. Basics- intended use for the car, power goals, comp. ratio, what pistons/heads you have (valve to piston clearance is critical), any other engine mods, etc. Then rear gearing, which transmission, tire height, etc. can all come into play.
You can get a lot of good help with that here but you'll need to provide some info to work with. Basics- intended use for the car, power goals, comp. ratio, what pistons/heads you have (valve to piston clearance is critical), any other engine mods, etc. Then rear gearing, which transmission, tire height, etc. can all come into play.
Everything is total stock, factory pistons, crank, everything. He called and said he generally uses comp cams and that I would need to get there springs and lifters if I went that route so I figured I would ask. I plan on it being a driver, not a drag car by any means
If you dont mind going too far from stock and the added expense a nice mild roller is the way to go. No more worrying about what oil to buy, great idle and more power.
I have the same engine internally (68 L36). I used a modern version of the stock cam from Crane. A little more lift and split duration. Works fine... I think the stock cam is about .480 lift and around 260* advertised duration.
If I do it again I will use a mild roller, as suggested by dugsgms74.
I have a bone stock numbers matching 69 L36 427 and had the same dilemma last month. The stock cam was worn and it still had the original nylon timing gear with an inch of play in the chain.... I went with comp cams XE262H which is one step up from stock. It idles like stock and has good vacuum. I used their cam, lifters, springs and also got their pushrods, new rocker arms and a timing set. Dont forget new valve seals while you are in there.
If your going to change the cam, you might as well have a look at the rear seal and oil pan gasket as this would be the perfect time to change them out if you have any leaks. I'm pretty happy with this setup on a stock car.
I have a bone stock numbers matching 69 L36 427 and had the same dilemma last month. The stock cam was worn and it still had the original nylon timing gear with an inch of play in the chain.... I went with comp cams XE262H which is one step up from stock. It idles like stock and has good vacuum. I used their cam, lifters, springs and also got their pushrods, new rocker arms and a timing set. Dont forget new valve seals while you are in there.
If your going to change the cam, you might as well have a look at the rear seal and oil pan gasket as this would be the perfect time to change them out if you have any leaks. I'm pretty happy with this setup on a stock car.