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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 01:40 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mark6669
I sold a rust free 72 frame at Old Town this year for $1750 needed some minor repairs.
Mark
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Old Apr 29, 2014 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
I'd shop for a "new" frame. What you are seeing is only the start of the problem. Try drilling a few 1/4" holes in the other kick-up area and rails (you can easily plug weld these later if needed) and you'll find lots of rust, not metal shavings being removed by the drill bit.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 12:53 AM
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See if there is a do it your self blasting facility in your area. Its about $90. hr here but it goes fast with a 200hp compressor and huge sand hopper. then you throw your parts back in your truck and no mess to clean up.
It takes forever trying to do it with a home compressor, always waiting for it to catch up.
I did my frame, suspension , wheels, brackets etc for about $250.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 02:22 AM
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http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4442098279.html


I know it is for a '68, but with some modification of adding gussets, and I think modding the body mounts, it could work. It has new suspension, sandblasted, and painted. Looks pretty nice.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hwcoop
See if there is a do it your self blasting facility in your area. Its about $90. hr here but it goes fast with a 200hp compressor and huge sand hopper. then you throw your parts back in your truck and no mess to clean up.
It takes forever trying to do it with a home compressor, always waiting for it to catch up.
I did my frame, suspension , wheels, brackets etc for about $250.
I went today and bought a blaster at harbor freight, I didn't check my email before I left, Thanks, the cashier said I have 90 days to return it if it doesn't work out.
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Old Apr 30, 2014 | 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandons72vette
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/4442098279.html


I know it is for a '68, but with some modification of adding gussets, and I think modding the body mounts, it could work. It has new suspension, sandblasted, and painted. Looks pretty nice.
After removing the end caps and looking inside the box frame, this frame is worth the repair, I'm gonna cut out the least amount, I figured I'd buy a 'R' & 'L' 23" replacement pieces from "ZIP" but I won't have to replace the entire 23"s. Thanks for the link though. acco
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Old May 1, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by acco 50
I went today and bought a blaster at harbor freight.
If you use good quality blasting media, you will save yourself a lot of frustration. I have the 40 pound blaster from Harbor Freight and it will get the job done-as long as you stay away from cheap blasting media. The 80 grit glass bead media will flow all day without plugging up, 80 grit aluminum oxide will flow most of the day without plugging up, anything that is a mixed grit (ex. 40-80 grit) will lead to a very long upsetting day.

If you spend the money upfront on quality media you could blast the entire frame in 4 hours (blasting time, not counting compressor air build up, etc.). Use cheap media and you will be at it for days. The large industrial machines are more forgiving on what passes through them, these small home units are not.
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Old May 1, 2014 | 11:56 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by acco 50
Have you ever used any of these? Or know anybody that used them? How was the fit and finish?
I've used them.

I've used their main frame rails and end caps. Great fit, welded easily... You couldn't tell that there was a repair when finished.

I have a customer's car that will require some frame repair as a result of severe rust... I'll be using them again.

Regards,

Stan
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Old May 4, 2014 | 11:36 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Texas70
If you use good quality blasting media, you will save yourself a lot of frustration. I have the 40 pound blaster from Harbor Freight and it will get the job done-as long as you stay away from cheap blasting media. The 80 grit glass bead media will flow all day without plugging up, 80 grit aluminum oxide will flow most of the day without plugging up, anything that is a mixed grit (ex. 40-80 grit) will lead to a very long upsetting day.

If you spend the money upfront on quality media you could blast the entire frame in 4 hours (blasting time, not counting compressor air build up, etc.). Use cheap media and you will be at it for days. The large industrial machines are more forgiving on what passes through them, these small home units are not.
I'm gearing up to start blasting tomorrow, I tried my blaster with the aluminum oxide I bought on a small patch and it performed really, I was concerned a little about my compressor but it kept up very well. I'll post some pics when I complete.
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Old May 4, 2014 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Rowdy Rat
I've used them.

I've used their main frame rails and end caps. Great fit, welded easily... You couldn't tell that there was a repair when finished.

I have a customer's car that will require some frame repair as a result of severe rust... I'll be using them again.

Regards,

Stan
Thank you this is good to hear, acco
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Old May 5, 2014 | 09:29 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by acco 50
I'm gearing up to start blasting tomorrow, I tried my blaster with the aluminum oxide I bought on a small patch and it performed really, I was concerned a little about my compressor but it kept up very well. I'll post some pics when I complete.
I have a 60 gallon/6HP compressor and a pancake/1.5HP compressor, I ended up manifolding the two together. With that set-up I was able to empty 30-40 pounds of media without stopping (once I figured out the media issue). So there is an option if you need more air.
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