Parking brake
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Parking brake
Can some one help. I put new brakes and new parking brakes on my 78 vette, I adjusted the parking brakes at the wheels and the adjusting assembly under the car is maxed out, yet I have very little parking brake. my only idea left is the rear parking brake cable has stretched. The cables are 36 years old, I am guessing the cable is bad.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Pro
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 591
Likes: 3
From: Monroe Washington
Just tried the same adjustment on my 81... Same result... Maxxed out, and no grab... I however didn't replace my shoes when I just did the rear trailing arms cause I 'thought' they were good still... The shop did however replace the return springs on top to help pull them away from the drum... But yea... I was thinking I had a cable stretch issue too...
I had one nut above, and one below, the cable T... And the manual showed them both being below the T... So I did that, got MORE adjustment, but still , it's not enough to get a rear lockup on the e-brake...
When you get your new one... Could you please lay them side by side and measure them with a tape measure so I can compare with my cable lengths and see if my issue is the same... ;-)
I had one nut above, and one below, the cable T... And the manual showed them both being below the T... So I did that, got MORE adjustment, but still , it's not enough to get a rear lockup on the e-brake...
When you get your new one... Could you please lay them side by side and measure them with a tape measure so I can compare with my cable lengths and see if my issue is the same... ;-)
Racer
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 362
Likes: 11
From: MARSHALLVILLE OHIO
I probably will be chastised by some one but if you set them by a manual I think the books may not be correct. I am friend with sever professional mechanics and have a relative that is one. In fact he's just finishing up a frame off 1968, 427. I told him about the same issue with my emergency brake. I told my regular mechanic to adjust my cables but they claim the actuator are installed wrong. I was talking to my relative about my problem his first words that Chevy emergency brakes are a pain in the posterior. He suggests adjust the shoes out till they just drag then back of two turns. The manuals say 10? When I have the wheels off the next that's what I'm trying.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 591
Likes: 3
From: Monroe Washington
I spun my stars til they stopped, let off a few turns... And the manual states to pull the handle 13 clicks, then tighten pressure on the nut adjuster to 80-85ft/lbs, then tighten the second nut to lock it in... That way, when down it'll cause no friction, and at 14 clicks on the handle it should start grabbing pretty solid...
I went by 'feel' and pretty much Maxxed my adjustment on the long screw behind the T... Suppose I could add some washers or a spacer to get it further , but I tend to think there's something else out of whack and wanted to further investigate before I went that route...
I went by 'feel' and pretty much Maxxed my adjustment on the long screw behind the T... Suppose I could add some washers or a spacer to get it further , but I tend to think there's something else out of whack and wanted to further investigate before I went that route...
Racer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 334
Likes: 6
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 294
From: ESCONDIDO CA
2025 C2 of the Year ('63 and '67) Finalist - Unmodified
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I spun my stars til they stopped, let off a few turns... And the manual states to pull the handle 13 clicks, then tighten pressure on the nut adjuster to 80-85ft/lbs, then tighten the second nut to lock it in... That way, when down it'll cause no friction, and at 14 clicks on the handle it should start grabbing pretty solid...
I went by 'feel' and pretty much Maxxed my adjustment on the long screw behind the T... Suppose I could add some washers or a spacer to get it further , but I tend to think there's something else out of whack and wanted to further investigate before I went that route...
I went by 'feel' and pretty much Maxxed my adjustment on the long screw behind the T... Suppose I could add some washers or a spacer to get it further , but I tend to think there's something else out of whack and wanted to further investigate before I went that route...
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Pro
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 591
Likes: 3
From: Monroe Washington
Accessible through the rotor, with my wheel off, from the outside of the wheel, through a hole in the rotor for this purpose.
The star is located about the 5 o'clock area when looking at the tire... So turn the disc til you can see it through one of the adjustment holes... To tighten, stick a flat head screwdriver in there, and push upwards towards the roof of the car for the proper direction... Both sides the same.
From what I can tell, no self adjustment... Could be wrong though... Didn't look that close...
The star is located about the 5 o'clock area when looking at the tire... So turn the disc til you can see it through one of the adjustment holes... To tighten, stick a flat head screwdriver in there, and push upwards towards the roof of the car for the proper direction... Both sides the same.
From what I can tell, no self adjustment... Could be wrong though... Didn't look that close...
Pro
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 591
Likes: 3
From: Monroe Washington
True that... If bubba put the rotors on without lining up the holes in the axle stub shaft, then you WILL have to remove the caliper and pop off the brake drum/ disc to properly align the holes for this to work...
I believe the disc comes riveted to the axle shaft from the factory... And some people drill those out during trailing arm repairs... Some replace them with nuts n bolts, and some allow the wheel lugs to hold it on...
If you DO pull the calipers... Find something to wedge in between the brake pads before sliding them off the rotor... Be it a specialty cut piece of wood... Or a spare socket you've got laying around your tool box... The brake pistons are spring loaded and are a royal pain to put back over the brake rotor ... I read this , partially understood it but didn't know why, until my second caliper dropped out the socket I threw in there...
My saving grace was I replaced the rear brake hard lines so I removed the old and was able to spread the pads with my fingers(pushing out all of the fluid)... Couldn't imagine getting it spread properly if it still had brake line pressure... 'Twas a PITA! Traditional brake caliper pad spreader tools do not work for this application...
I believe the disc comes riveted to the axle shaft from the factory... And some people drill those out during trailing arm repairs... Some replace them with nuts n bolts, and some allow the wheel lugs to hold it on...
If you DO pull the calipers... Find something to wedge in between the brake pads before sliding them off the rotor... Be it a specialty cut piece of wood... Or a spare socket you've got laying around your tool box... The brake pistons are spring loaded and are a royal pain to put back over the brake rotor ... I read this , partially understood it but didn't know why, until my second caliper dropped out the socket I threw in there...
My saving grace was I replaced the rear brake hard lines so I removed the old and was able to spread the pads with my fingers(pushing out all of the fluid)... Couldn't imagine getting it spread properly if it still had brake line pressure... 'Twas a PITA! Traditional brake caliper pad spreader tools do not work for this application...