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I recently replaced the yoke seals and pinion seal and cleaned everything up. This morning I reinstalled the pinion. I had the index marks on there but with everything tightened I was about a 1/4 inch shy of getting to the mark. Now the side yokes are difficult to turn. Did I F-up the crush sleeve?
I am confused you replace the side seals and the front pinion seal. Did you remove the actual pinion gear. No you just removed the front nut and the yoke and then pressed in a new seal?? Then when you put the nut on and tightened it you came up a 1/4 inch short? Just trying to clarify what you are asking. I don't think if you are short of the mark you didn't over tighten and I think they are a little hard to turn .
R
Sorry for the confusion. I did not remove the pinion gear. I removed only the nut, washer and yoke. I replaced the seal. Then I put sealer on the splines, inserted the yoke, put sealer on the bottom of the washer and tightened down the nut.
What I am afraid of is that I might have gone 1 full turn to much if that is possible? And it is considerably harder to turn the side yokes and it feels like it drags a little at some point in the full turn.
By harder to turn I mean I am using almost all my forearm strength to turn the yokes.
I wonder if you went past rather than came up short. Usually when I replace pinion seals w/o changing the crush sleeve I mark the nut in relation to the pinion and tighten a bit past where it was to make up for bearing wear. BTW, I've done alot of diff rebuilds and have never seen a failure due to excessive pinion bearing preload, too little, thats a different story...
3/4 turn is alot unless the bearings were very worn, I usually go 1/8 to 1/4 past depending on what feels right. You cant go backwards and if you did go too far a new crush sleeve is the only alternative but truthfully, if you can turn the pinion by hand w/o too much effort you should be OK.
Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the crush sleeve/nut?
You would have had to put both feet against the frame to brace yourself enough to overtighten the crush sleeve nearly a full turn---did you do that?
Just trying to understand how much effort you used to tighten the pinion nut.
The diff is currently off the frame. I had a pipe wrench on the yoke and started off with a torque wrench and when it came short of completing that last turn I put a 3' pipe extension on it to turn it about 1/2 turn. when I couldn't turn it any more with that I attempted to use an impact gun to no avail.
Originally I thought I had to go another turn because it felt loose/ or not tight enough...
Last edited by russianhomie119; May 21, 2014 at 11:10 PM.
I have seen this covered many times in regards to 12 bolts and other rears and Corvette should not be any different.
Many people say you can remove, do a seal then re-install no problem without doing new crush sleeve or setting up rear from scratch, I bet you may have gone beyond your reference marks....
A decent thread here, discusses the concept, again opinions vary - I am not sure what the Corvette crush collar will crush, start to compress
I have seen this covered many times in regards to 12 bolts and other rears and Corvette should not be any different.
Many people say you can remove, do a seal then re-install no problem without doing new crush sleeve or setting up rear from scratch, I bet you may have gone beyond your reference marks....
A decent thread here, discusses the concept, again opinions vary - I am not sure what the Corvette crush collar will crush, start to compress
Thank you for the link, I bet I did not put an additional 100 LBS when tightening. I have read a lot of the forums in regards to this crush sleeve and procedure, and it is difficult for me to gauge tightness of the yokes turning as normal or abnormal (easier to turn before I started all this). Maybe how tight the yokes are to turn means nothing. The pinion moves smoothly and without a lot of force.
The amount of force to turn the side-yokes will be different than turning the pinion.
Set the torque wrench to 25 pounds/turn the pinion nut/shaft......does it click?
(If it does NOT click-------the nut is too tight......you need a new crush sleeve/follow the directions in the link to install the new sleeve.)
Tell us what happened at 25 pounds on the torque wrench.
It did not click at the 25 LBS either.
It is a bit confusing but it makes sense. Now that i know it is overtightened I will order a new crush sleeve today. I also need another new pinion seal correct? anything else?
It is a bit confusing but it makes sense. Now that i know it is overtightened I will order a new crush sleeve today. I also need another new pinion seal correct? anything else?
Sealant.....unless you still have enough leftover.
Keep us updated after you re-do the pinion....in this same thread....then members will have an idea of when to be careful with crush sleeves.
bashcraft......I'm glad you caught that....I try to help but get my facts backwards!
Correct me again if I need it.......NO click at 18 pounds means the nut isn't tight enough..........
He needs to tighten the pinion nut more and test it with the torque wrench until it clicks at the correct torque setting...correct?
Mike Ward was right about me!
ok, so in this case I should try to reach the original index mark I made (a little less than 1/4 turn) ...that will be difficult guess I have to find another cheater bar and try to reach 18 LBS or my index mark whichever comes first. Correct?
ok, so in this case I should try to reach the original index mark I made (a little less than 1/4 turn) ...that will be difficult guess I have to find another cheater bar and try to reach 18 LBS or my index mark whichever comes first. Correct?
I sorry......I gave you the wrong torque value........it should be INCH-POUNDS......you will use a small torque wrench to check the tightness of the bearings. The 18 inch-pounds is what you should aim for.
bashcraft........correct me if I am wrong------------again!
18-25 inch pounds of turning torque of the assembly, not the nut. you need a beam type torque wrench and you turn the diff with the wrench while watching the gauge on the wrench. should be between 18-25 inch pounds of force to spin everything. i dont remember if thats pinion only or pinion and ring gear.
I sorry......I gave you the wrong torque value........it should be INCH-POUNDS......you will use a small torque wrench to check the tightness of the bearings. The 18 inch-pounds is what you should aim for.
bashcraft........correct me if I am wrong------------again!
To double check, this is using a torque wrench to turn the nut without holding the pinion stationary?