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78 C3 amp gauge Problem

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Old May 26, 2014 | 01:52 PM
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Default 78 C3 amp gauge Problem

I started our project car for the first time yesterday. I found the amp gauge was not working. I used a volt meter and checked at the battery, 13.5 volts...The c3 has one of those plastic printed circuits on the back and it would seem fool proof to hook it up. However, the odd chance I could have. Is there a right or wrong way to attach the small nuts on the threaded studs, Insulators, etc,...
I have New wire harness front and back.
Dose anyone have a photo showing a connection????
Of course it could be just a bad gauge.

I read where a "AAA" battery is crossed at terminals to check if it is alive, will try that.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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I'll be surprised if your 78 has an ammeter, should be a volt meter.

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=26351
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Old May 26, 2014 | 04:43 PM
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OK..Volt meter....the gauge that goes from 0-13,, sits in the lower right hand Conner of the cluster....I applied a AAA battery and the needle moved a little like a plus. Touched it to the car battery and it went all the way over.

Re-connected it and nothing....also now gas gauge only shows full.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
I'll be surprised if your 78 has an ammeter, should be a volt meter.

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=26351
Thanks for the picture....it helps..
Question ? on the back of the unit there is shown a printed circuit board??? where the low fuel light is. I have something like that but it is not attached, I thought it was for the tachometer.

I see on the pic of the circuit ground connections to harness plug for Gen, Low Fuel,lamps upper. but not for the lamps and AMP gauge.
IS the ground accomplished by a jumper wire to one of the circuit gound connections???

Last edited by Douglas Brown; May 26, 2014 at 07:55 PM.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Sometimes when the low fuel module goes bad, the hole gets left blank, don't put a bulb in that place instead, it will stay on.

You can't test the volt meter with a AAA battery, it takes car battery voltage. The AAA battery is for testing an ammeter from earlier years.

Last edited by '75; May 26, 2014 at 05:00 PM.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 07:59 PM
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Please look at photo's to follow, they are from my car.

Printed circuit board,


Small circuit board what does it go to, or where dose it attach..if any where...ANSWER it is a Tachometer circuit board.




Last edited by Douglas Brown; May 27, 2014 at 07:41 PM.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
Sometimes when the low fuel module goes bad, the hole gets left blank, don't put a bulb in that place instead, it will stay on.

You can't test the volt meter with a AAA battery, it takes car battery voltage. The AAA battery is for testing an ammeter from earlier years.
OK..thanks, I did use a the Car battery to check volt meter, it moved across the face.

Please out photos in thread
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Old May 26, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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Seems like part of your circuit board(low fuel module) is missing. In your pic, the grey bulb holder in the upper left should be removed. That is where the circuit board is installed, but part of it is missing. I recommend you get ahold of willcox to see if they can help.
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Old May 26, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
Seems like part of your circuit board(low fuel module) is missing. In your pic, the grey bulb holder in the upper left should be removed. That is where the circuit board is installed, but part of it is missing. I recommend you get ahold of willcox to see if they can help.
After looking at your pics, sent, I was wondering if something was a miss, because I could not figure out where it would mount to. Will check it out further.

Thanks
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Old May 26, 2014 | 08:51 PM
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with the instrument cluster removed the fuel gauge is pegged past Full, the Volt meter is below 8 and stays there.

The resistors are different colors, Fuel is blue, the others are red/orange type color. does it make a difference?
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Old May 26, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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The different colors are different resistance. The Willcox site has the info as to which is which on their site in the tech help section
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Old May 26, 2014 | 09:10 PM
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http://willcoxcorvette.com/popup_image.php?pID=26628
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Old May 27, 2014 | 07:14 PM
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I was able to get fuel gauge working, bad connection at tank sending unit terminal, cleaned it up and it works.
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Old May 27, 2014 | 07:53 PM
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Still have a problem with AMP/VOLT meter/gauge....I guess it would be Volt meter even thought paper work calls it an AMP gauge.

Here the problem..it is pegged to the far right, does not move when mounted in cluster and hooked up to the harness connecter.

I tested it by placing two leads +/- two the battery and then to the terminals to watch for a response. It moved across the face and back as I moved the leads.
It is supposed to be grounded to the cluster housing, I checked the connection it's correct
The face of these meters are showing 8-18 volts it dose not show discharge as in - #'s so when it is working it should show volts generated only. I checked at the battery with a load tester and it was charging 13.5....
MAYBE it needs a jumper wire to the temp gauge, ground to work.??????
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Old May 28, 2014 | 11:11 PM
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I will try again tomorrow with the volt gauge....It has to be a bad ground, but it is hooked up correctly. with sm washer then nut, then prt circuit, then sm nut. some where it is not picking up a ground connection from the case or one of the other grounds. If this is true then I will run a jumper to another ground and see what happens.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 04:35 PM
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The left side of the harness connecter is the passenger...the right side is Driver



as can be seen there is NO power to (3) three of the tabs that fit in the slot.

There is one GOOD power tab to the clock.



Now I am confused as to why there is not power in a new wire harness.

Gauges look like this when on bench



When ignition is on and motor is running, notice gen light is on...



load tester indicates charging system working



I looked at the fuses (pulled gauge fuse ) and tested with test light ...ok
why other power leads are dead????

Last edited by Douglas Brown; May 30, 2014 at 04:49 PM.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 08:20 PM
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Are you checking with the key on? The clock will have power all the time, gauges with key on, get power from the gauges fuse.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by '75
Are you checking with the key on? The clock will have power all the time, gauges with key on, get power from the gauges fuse.
The second photo was with key on, motor running.
will re-check fuses tomorrow

also connected tachometer, it dose not move up or down.

Last edited by Douglas Brown; May 30, 2014 at 10:51 PM.
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Old May 31, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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Just a note: one of the fuse terminals on the back side of the fuse box was corroded and not making good contact which caused "no power" at certain circuits.....

and the ignition switch (not the Key-switch, but the switch with the main dash harness plugged into it) was worn internally and one of the contacts was giving intermittent power.
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Old May 31, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
Just a note: one of the fuse terminals on the back side of the fuse box was corroded and not making good contact which caused "no power" at certain circuits.....

and the ignition switch (not the Key-switch, but the switch with the main dash harness plugged into it) was worn internally and one of the contacts was giving intermittent power.
I'll keep that in mind, thanks
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