CS144 conversion and wiring upgrades - 72 BB
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CS144 conversion and wiring upgrades - 72 BB
In the process of switching to electric fans decided to switch to an alt that would provide a few more amps at/near idle (also wanted to get rid of the lights pulsing to the music when stopped at a light, a little to tuner for me)
After reading up on the various options, pro's and cons to the SI12 and cs130's as well as the retro-built version of everything, decided to go ahead and switch to a 140A CS144 out of a loaded Buick
Unit tested very good but looked like it was taken off a Buick
Blew everything apart, checked the bearings etc and did some TLC
You can use a paper clip or other thin wire to hold the brushes in when putting everything back together
See it sticking out the access hole here
Once the armature is back in you pull the wire out and the brushes are free to do their thing
The CS144 is physically larger than the old SI model and I previously has some clearance problems from the alt to the valve cover (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...lve-cover.html) so I needed to open the bracket and also raise the alt slightly
While the engine was on the stand, installed everything and went ahead and cut the alt bracket in a semi-straight area
Installed the new alt and set it to the mid point of the slot with about 1/4 clearance on the valve cover. Then clamped a piece of metal to the two halves to mark the needed change
Hard to see here but the elongated section (made from a piece of heavy angle iron) adding approx. 7/8" between the two halves with a slight angle to maintain alignment on the pulley (bracket may have been slightly bent originally) Lots of filing and fitting before passing it to my brother to be fully welded, then some clean up and powder coating
Wiring
To handle the new alt, fans etc. changed / added:
8g run from the alt to the horn relay terminal replacing existing 10g then another 8g run to the starter lug with a 12g fusible link near the starter end.
8g ground run from alt to rad-support replacing existing 12g
The fan relays run off a separate 4g run from the starter lug to a fused distribution block
Wiring the CS144 required the addition of a resistor to the alt, if you check around you'll find that the resistance on the lead needs to be somewhere between 35ohms and 500 ohms (depending on who you believe) and with only a gauge, I needed to add resistance (if the car has a batt. light that should be enough resistance) you can check by disconnecting the positive cable and measuring between the cable and the alt wire to see what the resistance is.
I purchased two different adapters, one from a vette supplier, the other from NAPA, that were supposed to be the correct ones with the resistor, neither were. There was a story floating around that a bunch were mis-boxed but if you get one, open the conduit and see if there is a resistor heat-shrunk on the wire, don't trust the part number on the box
Added a 150ohm, 2w resistor to the line ***** (This was a smaller 1/2w resistor which functioned but after talking with different people I replaced it with this 2-watt one) *****
Some loom and a bit of cleanup
All (most) information distilled from many, many posts here and on DC and a few others. including those from D_B, MrVette, Z-Man, KaiserBud etc.etc.etc.
Another insignificant job checked off.
M
After reading up on the various options, pro's and cons to the SI12 and cs130's as well as the retro-built version of everything, decided to go ahead and switch to a 140A CS144 out of a loaded Buick
Unit tested very good but looked like it was taken off a Buick
Blew everything apart, checked the bearings etc and did some TLC
You can use a paper clip or other thin wire to hold the brushes in when putting everything back together
See it sticking out the access hole here
Once the armature is back in you pull the wire out and the brushes are free to do their thing
The CS144 is physically larger than the old SI model and I previously has some clearance problems from the alt to the valve cover (http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...lve-cover.html) so I needed to open the bracket and also raise the alt slightly
While the engine was on the stand, installed everything and went ahead and cut the alt bracket in a semi-straight area
Installed the new alt and set it to the mid point of the slot with about 1/4 clearance on the valve cover. Then clamped a piece of metal to the two halves to mark the needed change
Hard to see here but the elongated section (made from a piece of heavy angle iron) adding approx. 7/8" between the two halves with a slight angle to maintain alignment on the pulley (bracket may have been slightly bent originally) Lots of filing and fitting before passing it to my brother to be fully welded, then some clean up and powder coating
Wiring
To handle the new alt, fans etc. changed / added:
8g run from the alt to the horn relay terminal replacing existing 10g then another 8g run to the starter lug with a 12g fusible link near the starter end.
8g ground run from alt to rad-support replacing existing 12g
The fan relays run off a separate 4g run from the starter lug to a fused distribution block
Wiring the CS144 required the addition of a resistor to the alt, if you check around you'll find that the resistance on the lead needs to be somewhere between 35ohms and 500 ohms (depending on who you believe) and with only a gauge, I needed to add resistance (if the car has a batt. light that should be enough resistance) you can check by disconnecting the positive cable and measuring between the cable and the alt wire to see what the resistance is.
I purchased two different adapters, one from a vette supplier, the other from NAPA, that were supposed to be the correct ones with the resistor, neither were. There was a story floating around that a bunch were mis-boxed but if you get one, open the conduit and see if there is a resistor heat-shrunk on the wire, don't trust the part number on the box
Added a 150ohm, 2w resistor to the line ***** (This was a smaller 1/2w resistor which functioned but after talking with different people I replaced it with this 2-watt one) *****
Some loom and a bit of cleanup
All (most) information distilled from many, many posts here and on DC and a few others. including those from D_B, MrVette, Z-Man, KaiserBud etc.etc.etc.
Another insignificant job checked off.
M
Last edited by Mooser; 12-01-2017 at 08:31 PM. Reason: fix photobucket mess
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C3Wescott (03-15-2022)
#2
Melting Slicks
I am curious why you went with that belt configuration for the Alternator rather than one that goes also to the Crank/WP pulleys? You are likely to have a "screecher" with that setup....
#3
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M
#4
Nam Labrat
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Ahaaaaa.....no more voltmeter needle swinging left at every traffic light when the fans turn on!
#5
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Will pull the amp gauge and install a new volt gauge when I move to the interior again
M
#6
Melting Slicks
Good luck with it!
#7
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Aha! Cool - the setup look great! I have a SB, no PS, Dual Spals - I put a CS144 on and it has been superb. Single belt doesn't thrill me, particularly when it kisses the top radiator hose! I need to come up with a "guard" like what has been floating around here recently.
Good luck with it!
Good luck with it!
M
Last edited by Mooser; 12-01-2017 at 08:37 PM. Reason: fix photobucket mess