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Seatbelts installation - C3

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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 01:00 AM
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Default Seatbelts installation - C3

I have new seatbelts from corvette central....do you know if I have to take out the seats to install the new seatbelts?
My car is a 1976.

Carlos
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Carlos.urtubia
I have new seatbelts from corvette central....do you know if I have to take out the seats to install the new seatbelts?
My car is a 1976.

Carlos
You will need to remove the seats to access the buckle side (transmission tunnel) and also to remove the under seat retractor for the factory lap belts. The car should have originally come with a dual retractor seat belt system and the one from Corvette Central should also be a dual retractor. If you bought the single retractor system then you still need the seat out to bolt the anchor where the under seat retractor is located.

Eric

.
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by palmbeachvette76
You will need to remove the seats to access the buckle side (transmission tunnel) and also to remove the under seat retractor for the factory lap belts. The car should have originally come with a dual retractor seat belt system and the one from Corvette Central should also be a dual retractor. If you bought the single retractor system then you still need the seat out to bolt the anchor where the under seat retractor is located.

Eric

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PBV76 is spot on..............
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 09:32 AM
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Default Thank you!!!

Today I will receive the seatbelts and put them this week (I already learnt that anything that normally will take 5 mins on my vette takes 1 week).
Will keep you updated.

Carlos
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 09:54 PM
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Default Just rust on the seatbelt bolts

Now the mission impossible is to try to take out the rusty bolts....
Do you have any trick for the rusty bolts?
I am applying wd40 (rust one) and still completely hard to move them..,,

Thank you
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 09:56 PM
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 11:27 PM
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You also need to reach under the car and spray them.

If they still will not turn, it is better to drill a hole completely thru them--then enlarge it to be about 1/8" smaller than the bolt-thread size so that an E-Z Out can be used to "back-out the remaining bolt, rather than ruining the floor-plate and nut (been there/no fun!)
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Old Jun 24, 2014 | 06:22 AM
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You will also need to remove the bracket that routes the belt along the sill. I could not get those to come out when I replaced my belts, but luckily I was installing single retractor belts so I just shoved the end through there without needing to take it off. If I would have bought dual retractor belts, it would have been even more of a nightmare. This job, and the door hinge pins, were the first major projects I did to my car

You are correct, there are no easy jobs in a C3...everything takes some multiple of 3-times longer than you think it will take...have fun.

John
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 03:58 PM
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I gave up....after few litres of wd-40, this morning I went to my friends on the body shop for help....also was needing some other small things done, then I took advantage of the booking....
Still working on the interior and next big project is to change gauges and panels.....sits will need to wait for now....
Thank you for your help!!!
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 05:24 PM
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I want to get ahold of something that rusty and try a Mini-Ductor on it. Would be a true test of their claims
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Old Jun 25, 2014 | 08:42 PM
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Snap em off with a air hammer or impact driver and buy new bolts.
Save yourself some time and a headache.

Or if you like the punishment, heat up the nut as hot as you can get it then put the impact gun on it.

When I did mine I just snapped off the bolts and bought some new ones.

Dodosmike
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