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Old Aug 18, 2014 | 07:30 AM
  #1  
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Default Brake problem

Last spring getting my 77 ready to go i had a problem.
checking the brake fluid i noticed the rubber gasket on the master cyl was all distorted.
with this was one well of very discolored fluid.

Ramp truck down the street to a garage i have been doing biz with since the early 80's.

they flushed fluid ( they said ) and replaced gasket and bled brakes.
next day brake pedal to the floor.
back for another bleeding,yes,they know about the two rear bleeders.
next day,pedal to floor.

they replaced master cyl,,next day,,brakes almost to floor.
replaced rubber brake line one rear wheel,bled,pedal almost to floor.

replaced slightly weeping caliper,bled,next day brakes almost to floor.

car is about rust free underneath and no rusty brake lines.
they closley inspected everything and can find nothing wrong .
Said they could do no more.

Two summers now without my car is not a good thing.
I remember the brake pedal used to be very firm and did not travel very far after pressing on it and the brakes worked real well.
i do not know how they bled the brakes but i think the two person way of pumping and opening bleeder.

any insight or suggestions ??
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Old Aug 18, 2014 | 08:09 PM
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is the vacuum on booster good and is brake booster good. When it floors is there still fluid in mc. Are seal on calipers good. Old style tend to leak and allow air in. O ring supposedly solves that.
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Old Aug 18, 2014 | 11:17 PM
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It's a real pain bleeding the calipers sometimes! I had to replace all four flexiblehoses/clean the diverter valve (1968)/gravity bleed AND 2-person bleed the entire system......4 pints of brake fluid and 2 days later.......

The brakes finally worked perfectly (non-power brakes).
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 76CSRvette
is the vacuum on booster good and is brake booster good. When it floors is there still fluid in mc. Are seal on calipers good. Old style tend to leak and allow air in. O ring supposedly solves that.
With engine off pressing on pedal then starting engine the pedal drops verifying booster is good the old way.

when floored is still fluid in MC,plenty.

if the seal leaked enough to let air in wouldnt fluid leak out ?

Tnx.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 11:39 AM
  #5  
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find a better brake shop. 1 that actually knows how to bleed corvette system.
replace those old rubber brake hoses.
they have induced air into the system, you need to pressure bleed,
all calipers and smack them with a rubber mallet, during the process,
sounds crazy but it works. this releases the air particals stuck onto the calipers.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 12:14 PM
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The master cylinder needs to be bench bled. Because of the angle it sits at when installed, there will always be air that you can't get out unless can bleed it at all angles.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 02:30 PM
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Here is my trick. Takes less than 30 minutes to do all four wheels. You will need assistance for the final bleeding (somebody will need to press the pedal).

I use a 60mL syringe that I purchase from Tractor Supply, they use them for animal injections. $3.29 for a 2 pack,

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...city-pack-of-2

Put a short section of vacuum hose on the end and suck up a load of brake fluid from the container. Attach the end to the bleeder and crack the bleeder open. Slowly inject the brake fluid and it will fill the caliper and eventually start coming out back at the master cylinder. You can suck out the extra from the master cylinder as needed. Work your way around starting from the furthest wheel. Once the system is full, you will need to bleed the wheel calipers the old way to get the last bubbles out of them.

I have done this on several vehicles and it has always worked for me.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas70
Here is my trick. Takes less than 30 minutes to do all four wheels. You will need assistance for the final bleeding (somebody will need to press the pedal).

I use a 60mL syringe that I purchase from Tractor Supply, they use them for animal injections. $3.29 for a 2 pack,

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...city-pack-of-2

Put a short section of vacuum hose on the end and suck up a load of brake fluid from the container. Attach the end to the bleeder and crack the bleeder open. Slowly inject the brake fluid and it will fill the caliper and eventually start coming out back at the master cylinder. You can suck out the extra from the master cylinder as needed. Work your way around starting from the furthest wheel. Once the system is full, you will need to bleed the wheel calipers the old way to get the last bubbles out of them.

I have done this on several vehicles and it has always worked for me.
How do you get the air out of the master cylinder? A portion of the cylinder is higher than the holes in the bottom of the reservoir unless you raise the back of the car and get the MC level. I haven't heard anybody have any luck bleeding brakes on a C-3 without bench bleeding the master first.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin68
How do you get the air out of the master cylinder? A portion of the cylinder is higher than the holes in the bottom of the reservoir unless you raise the back of the car and get the MC level. I haven't heard anybody have any luck bleeding brakes on a C-3 without bench bleeding the master first.
I do not know why there is not air in the master cylinder, but the system was completely dry and now has a firm pedal. I have nothing against bench bleeding the master cylinder, I just have never had to do it.
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 12:31 AM
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You could get 6 speed bleeders(1 in fronts 2 in rear) then open one at a time 1/4 turn then depress brake pedal. These have a check valve in them that let brake fluid out when pedal is pressed then check valve keeps air from being sucked back in. Do each bleeder several times while checking fluid level in master cylinder, then tighten bleeder back 1/4 turn. Then off to another bleeder. Dorman speed bleeders are carried at Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and other part suppliers, Russel's is another brand of speed bleeders. Good luck.
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 03:13 PM
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Don't want to steal the OP's thread but was wondering that if the master cylinder wasn't bench bled could it still have air in it 2 years later?
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