Horn help needed please
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Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Sebastian,FL
Horn help needed please
So I have had the car a little over a month and have been fixing the nit picky items so I can get it to pass inspection but now I am at the last item needed. I have no horns at all. I used the search feature and came up with a lot of info and thoughts but the common thread kept leading back to a individual named bubba the electrician. Well I think he might have had his hand in this one as well. My question is how do I get the horn button off? it durns a bit but I dont want to force something and break it. Anxiously awaiting any help as I want to get this licensed this weekend so I can finally drive it. Thanks in advance.
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
I'm only familiar with my '68 project and wouldn't want to make a disaster of your horn assembly.
Let's clear up a couple things first that other members will need to know:
Do not remove the horn button yet---it may not be the problem--no sense in breaking the assembly for nothing.
Do you have a wiring diagram for your year?
You said "no horns".....does that mean there is NO SOUND coming from the two horns-------
------or does it mean that Bubba completely removed the two horns from the car?
Also.......have you checked the fuse.............
have you checked to see if the horn relay is getting the correct voltage when the horn button is depressed.
Are the wires actually plugged into the horns themselves.
Give other members time to wind down from their day's work----one of them will have the right info.
Let's clear up a couple things first that other members will need to know:
Do not remove the horn button yet---it may not be the problem--no sense in breaking the assembly for nothing.
Do you have a wiring diagram for your year?
You said "no horns".....does that mean there is NO SOUND coming from the two horns-------
------or does it mean that Bubba completely removed the two horns from the car?
Also.......have you checked the fuse.............
have you checked to see if the horn relay is getting the correct voltage when the horn button is depressed.
Are the wires actually plugged into the horns themselves.
Give other members time to wind down from their day's work----one of them will have the right info.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
If you have the wiring diagram and the voltmeter.....check the correct wire that goes to the horn relay when the horn button is held down---if there is 12 volts---the system is O.K. from the horn button to the relay terminal.
Also connect a 12 volt positive jumper from a good under-hood source to the main wire than runs to the horns, themselves........if they blow---they are in good shape---if not--check the ground wire from the horns to the frame......if still no noise---connect a known good horn to the main wire and ground the good horn to test it with the 12 v jumper.
(On my '68 I disconnect the horn button wire acts as a ground wire from the relay. I disconnected it from the relay and tested it for continuity----the ohm needle should "peg-out" if the wire and horn assembly in the steering column are good when the button is pressed/I also installed a permanent flexible jumper wire across the steering "rag-joint" to make sure continuity wasn't being lost as the steering was turned (precautionary modification).
Anyone feel free to correct any wrong info!!!!!
Last edited by doorgunner; Aug 27, 2014 at 11:31 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Loveland Colorado
Do like Doorgunner recommended and don't tear your horn button off just yet. I have a 77 and at your horn relay your connector should have a black, red, and dark green wire. The black wire comes from the horn switch and like doorgunner said, it provides a ground when the horn button is pushed to fire the horn relay. You need to check with a voltmeter just as doorgunner said to see if that is providing a ground.
Also I would check at the horn relay connector and see if you have 12 volts on the red wire. This wire should always have 12 volts on it, but it is good check it and make sure.
An alternate method of checking your horns would be, once you have verified 12 volts at the horn relay connector, is to jumper the red wire to the dark green wire. Use a piece of wire, or a paper clip, and insert in the horn relay connector to jumper the red and dark green wires. For God sakes don't jumper the red and black wires together as the bomb will go off.
In other words you will blow a fuse or the thermo wire from the alternator. If you do all this (check the black wire for ground, red wire for 12 volts, jumper the red and dark green wires) and the horns work, you have a bad relay. If not then, like doorgunner said, check the grounds at the horns.
Also I would check at the horn relay connector and see if you have 12 volts on the red wire. This wire should always have 12 volts on it, but it is good check it and make sure.
An alternate method of checking your horns would be, once you have verified 12 volts at the horn relay connector, is to jumper the red wire to the dark green wire. Use a piece of wire, or a paper clip, and insert in the horn relay connector to jumper the red and dark green wires. For God sakes don't jumper the red and black wires together as the bomb will go off.
In other words you will blow a fuse or the thermo wire from the alternator. If you do all this (check the black wire for ground, red wire for 12 volts, jumper the red and dark green wires) and the horns work, you have a bad relay. If not then, like doorgunner said, check the grounds at the horns.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2,633
From: Draper Utah
Below is what I used to diagnosis and get my horns working. The instructions are easy to follow. It took me about 60 minutes to figure out my horns were bad and the contacts in the steering column were bad. it took another 60 minutes to get everything fixed and working.
http://www.hunt4cleanair.net/Article..._Diagnosis.pdf
Good luck
http://www.hunt4cleanair.net/Article..._Diagnosis.pdf
Good luck
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,703
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Below is what I used to diagnosis and get my horns working. The instructions are easy to follow. It took me about 60 minutes to figure out my horns were bad and the contacts in the steering column were bad. it took another 60 minutes to get everything fixed and working.
http://www.hunt4cleanair.net/Article..._Diagnosis.pdf
Good luck
http://www.hunt4cleanair.net/Article..._Diagnosis.pdf
Good luck
This is the way to do it. Don't tear your steering column apart to find that your actual horn is dead (common) or that your relay needs to be replaced.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Sebastian,FL
Thanks for the info everyone. I couldnt wait any longer so I put the car on the road today with a 10 day pass to get it inspected so I will get into it this weekend and get it sorted out. In the mean time I was able to drive my new toy as I hadnt had a vette in 22 years
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Good thinking!!!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,212
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From: San Antonio TX
Below is what I used to diagnosis and get my horns working. The instructions are easy to follow. It took me about 60 minutes to figure out my horns were bad and the contacts in the steering column were bad. it took another 60 minutes to get everything fixed and working.
http://www.hunt4cleanair.net/Article..._Diagnosis.pdf
Good luck
http://www.hunt4cleanair.net/Article..._Diagnosis.pdf
Good luck
KO
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 570
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From: Sebastian,FL
Well I found the problem, printed off the link iceaxe included, read thru it in the garage and then used gazehounds alternate method and used a jumper and horns work so time for a new relay. Still need to get the horn button off as I am changing the interior from brown to black but atleast I can satisfy the state inspection for now. Thanks for all the input and help.