Neutral safety switch
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Franklin Tennessee
Neutral safety switch
1974 vett; my switch is out of alignment. Starts in park and neutral, but also in drive. I loosen the front screw but can't break rear screw loose yet. It would seem hard to be out of adjustment since I have only a little play forward. In neutral pin from shifter in hole on switch, all wiring looks good, looks like a fairly new switch.
I can't find any info on how to really adjust front to back to solve problem.
Anyone have an idea, been on forums and uTube for references
I can't find any info on how to really adjust front to back to solve problem.
Anyone have an idea, been on forums and uTube for references
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Franklin Tennessee
Doesn't start in reverse. Switch looks fairly new, connections clean. According to manual for 1974, you put shifter in neutral to adjust back and forth, but I can't or haven't yet gotten rear screw loose.
Don't want to get a new switch yet, until sure I can't readjust. I had to have done something when replaced console. Thanks any comments welcome
Don't want to get a new switch yet, until sure I can't readjust. I had to have done something when replaced console. Thanks any comments welcome
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,607
Likes: 7,053
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
I really had a rough time getting one of the screws aloose on my '68 project....I think I had to use either a pair of dykes to pinch the screw head and twist it until it loosened or a pair of good needle-nose pliers and ended up cracking the switch. 
I bought a replacement switch from one of the Forum Vendors which had more adjustment/new screws---it took about 20 minutes to adjust it................................it works perfectly.
Just take your time/use an ohm meter to make sure the switch itself is shorted internally.....then connect the wires---and check for 12 Volts input with the key turned all the way to crank AND check for output voltage while the key is turned all the way to crank.
The output wire from the safety switch was also damaged near the firewall where it went toward the solenoid which caused intermittent staring problems........fun/fun....but I/rookie/learned how to diagnose a wiring problem from one end to another....which came in handy 10 wires later.
I bought a replacement switch from one of the Forum Vendors which had more adjustment/new screws---it took about 20 minutes to adjust it................................it works perfectly.
Just take your time/use an ohm meter to make sure the switch itself is shorted internally.....then connect the wires---and check for 12 Volts input with the key turned all the way to crank AND check for output voltage while the key is turned all the way to crank.
The output wire from the safety switch was also damaged near the firewall where it went toward the solenoid which caused intermittent staring problems........fun/fun....but I/rookie/learned how to diagnose a wiring problem from one end to another....which came in handy 10 wires later.
Last edited by doorgunner; Sep 6, 2014 at 06:30 PM.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Franklin Tennessee
Ok, thanks. I have gotten to wear it starts in P, R, N, & D. Not good, even small adjustments doesn't change the problem. I will check the connection thru firewall, next. Maybe new switch is best. I just hate to give up on a supposedly easy thing. Thanks allot.
Don't know it this means anything but battery seems to wear done after 10 - 12 tries. New battery checks out on tester.
Don't know it this means anything but battery seems to wear done after 10 - 12 tries. New battery checks out on tester.
Last edited by Hcincere; Sep 7, 2014 at 10:37 AM.
2026 Loser of the Year
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 36,607
Likes: 7,053
From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Ok, thanks. I haven't gotten to wear it starts I P, R, N, & D. Not good, even small adjustments doesn't change the problem. I will check the connection thru firewall, next. Maybe new switch is best. I just hate to give up on a supposedly easy thing. Thanks allot.
Don't know it this means anything but battery seems to wear done after 10 - 12 tries. New battery checks out on tester.
Don't know it this means anything but battery seems to wear done after 10 - 12 tries. New battery checks out on tester.
Sometimes that easy safety switch fix can be a real problem.......
I have learned to keep my battery charger on "slow charge" while the Vette is parked for more than a day when I am using the ignition while working on things. It can run the battery down below 12 volts in a short time, causing electrical mal-functions.
Keeping the battery fully charged eliminates problems caused by low battery voltage (like starter/solenoid clicking)
Just be sure to disconnect the battery charger before turning on the ignition key---I read that it's not good for the car or charger to turn on the ignition with the charger still connected to the battery.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,691
Likes: 697
From: Danville Illinois
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
2021 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Took mine apart two times to try and clean/repair it.
Would of been easier to just replace it in the first place
Would of been easier to just replace it in the first place
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Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Franklin Tennessee
Replaced the switch today and everything is working correctly. I gave up trying to put the rear screw in. I tried every way possible and finally just tightened the front and called it a day.