Purchase help!
I am looking at a 1 owner 1976 with less than 30K on it. This is my first foray into C3's so I am really in unchartered waters.
A few concerns popped out and I don't know if they are correct.
There is overspray when you look into the left fender vent on the harness and what looks like a vacuum tank. This screams re-spray to me but was this normal?
Also the hood fit at the windshield is poor with the corners closest to the windshield not being level with the fenders. Is this normal?
Thanks!
John
Last edited by Ike27; Nov 11, 2014 at 01:35 PM.
I am looking at a 1 owner 1976 with less than 30K on it. This is my first foray into C3's so I am really in unchartered waters.
A few concerns popped out and I don't know if they are correct.
There is overspray when you look into the left fender vent on the harness and what looks like a vacuum tank. This screams re-spray to me but was this normal?
Also the hood fit at the windshield is poor with the corners closest to the windshield not being level with the fenders. Is this normal?
Thanks!
John
A car 10 years old could have the same problems...just as an example.
Is there another Forum member in the area who can look at the car?
Read the 10 rules concerning buying a Corvette to give yourself a better idea of what to watch for.
Click on this shortcut: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
The frame is rust free. Its all tight and was garage kept until 2 years ago (outside but covered in the North East.
The owner (only owner) claims it came from the factory this way. I just don't know if the paint / fit and finish were this way or if he is telling me a story.
A car 10 years old could have the same problems...just as an example.
Is there another Forum member in the area who can look at the car?
Read the 10 rules concerning buying a Corvette to give yourself a better idea of what to watch for.
Click on this shortcut: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
there is however over spray in a few areas of my current 76 but I know it's been resprayed.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Nov 10, 2014 at 12:43 PM.
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nothing wrong with a little overspray, maybe a minor repair in its 38 year life..
lack of rust and that low of miles is a major plus and is an excellent basis for a classic car. Panels can be adjusted to some degree..
buy your car on condition but expect to pay for lots of little nickel and dime stuff on something that old.
don't pay a big premium for a car that has been sitting outside. all that does is accelerate the deterioration.
Pull the kick panel (speaker grill) in the passenger side foot well area.
76's show their rust problems here first. People dont notice the passenger side leaking as quickly as the notice the drivers side and water pools in the floor board and in the body mount area. Use your knuckles to tap the floor pan FIRMLY. If it has any give or thin spots then walk away.
If the owner wont let you pull the panel then I would be a little leary.
Step two.
Lay the towel on the passenger seat and drape it into the floorboard.
Open and close the passenger door a few times. Dont slam it cause that might make the owner mad. Sit in the drivers seat and use the side of your hand to tap the moulding at the top of the windshield all the way from center to the door frame.
Look at the towel. If it had more than a few small flakes of rust then decline to buy it.
76's are not a big collectors car. They are pretty common. Unless it has a solid birdcage and a solid frame then walk away. I wish I wouldnt have been starstruck when I bought mine.
My 76 has some rust on the birdcage and the floorpans were shot. Floorpans are NO fun to replace. Luckily I can get away with wire brushing and sealing my cage.
Known issues at this time are:
*Blown heater core
*Ac not working prior to core letting loose
*Wet floor on passenger side, a little damp under carpet but no rust
*Slight leak at thermostat (Possibly when he by passed the heater core)
*Urethane bumpers front an back breaking off. (Early 76)
*Needs new tires
*Slight sticking of parking brake but goes away when a handle is lifted slightly
*Weather seals around doors dry / brittle
Positives:
*23k original miles
*Not a single sign of rust on frame or birdcage.
*What appears to be original paint (I will post pics of overspray area)
*Interior in VG condition including seats, dash
*Only Clock and Alarm not working from an electrical standpoint.
*Original documentation including window sticker
*Car drives well with no smoke or hesitation
Pull the kick panel (speaker grill) in the passenger side foot well area.
76's show their rust problems here first. People dont notice the passenger side leaking as quickly as the notice the drivers side and water pools in the floor board and in the body mount area. Use your knuckles to tap the floor pan FIRMLY. If it has any give or thin spots then walk away.
If the owner wont let you pull the panel then I would be a little leary.
Step two.
Lay the towel on the passenger seat and drape it into the floorboard.
Open and close the passenger door a few times. Dont slam it cause that might make the owner mad. Sit in the drivers seat and use the side of your hand to tap the moulding at the top of the windshield all the way from center to the door frame.
Look at the towel. If it had more than a few small flakes of rust then decline to buy it.
76's are not a big collectors car. They are pretty common. Unless it has a solid birdcage and a solid frame then walk away. I wish I wouldnt have been starstruck when I bought mine.
My 76 has some rust on the birdcage and the floorpans were shot. Floorpans are NO fun to replace. Luckily I can get away with wire brushing and sealing my cage.
Last edited by Ike27; Nov 11, 2014 at 01:49 PM.




Why are you so sure the miles are original?
Are you sure its not 123k?
Price is a pretty big factor here.
From the pics, the hood might just need an adjustment.















