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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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Default Purchase help with Pictures

Hi folks

I am looking at a 1 owner 1976 with less than 30K on it. This is my first foray into C3's so I am really in unchartered waters.

A few concerns popped out and I don't know if they are correct.

There is overspray when you look into the left fender vent on the harness and what looks like a vacuum tank. This screams re-spray to me but was this normal?

Also the hood fit at the windshield is poor with the corners closest to the windshield not being level with the fenders. Is this normal?

Thanks!
John

Last edited by Ike27; Nov 11, 2014 at 01:35 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ike27
Hi folks

I am looking at a 1 owner 1976 with less than 30K on it. This is my first foray into C3's so I am really in unchartered waters.

A few concerns popped out and I don't know if they are correct.

There is overspray when you look into the left fender vent on the harness and what looks like a vacuum tank. This screams re-spray to me but was this normal?

Also the hood fit at the windshield is poor with the corners closest to the windshield not being level with the fenders. Is this normal?

Thanks!
John
30,000 miles.....it depends on how roughly the car was treated....how many wrecks it has been in....how rusty the frame is.

A car 10 years old could have the same problems...just as an example.

Is there another Forum member in the area who can look at the car?

Read the 10 rules concerning buying a Corvette to give yourself a better idea of what to watch for.

Click on this shortcut: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:27 AM
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Thanks Doorgunner

The frame is rust free. Its all tight and was garage kept until 2 years ago (outside but covered in the North East.

The owner (only owner) claims it came from the factory this way. I just don't know if the paint / fit and finish were this way or if he is telling me a story.

Originally Posted by doorgunner
30,000 miles.....it depends on how roughly the car was treated....how many wrecks it has been in....how rusty the frame is.

A car 10 years old could have the same problems...just as an example.

Is there another Forum member in the area who can look at the car?

Read the 10 rules concerning buying a Corvette to give yourself a better idea of what to watch for.

Click on this shortcut: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:49 AM
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Got pictures? There's several guys here that can spot issues from pictures, I'm not one of them unless it's just glaring
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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I didn't take any unfortunately. I just cant believe that it would come from GM with overspray inside the vents..
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Ike27
I didn't take any unfortunately. I just cant believe that it would come from GM with overspray inside the vents..
Yeah I don't think it came from the factory like that. I had bought a 76 back in 79 and while that was a long time ago I certainly don't remember there being any over spray in any areas.

there is however over spray in a few areas of my current 76 but I know it's been resprayed.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ike27
...was this normal?...
No. It is possible the car required paint repair before leaving the assembly line, but this was usually neatly done.

...the hood fit at the windshield is poor with the corners closest to the windshield not being level with the fenders. Is this normal?...
Probably not. How about a pic?

Last edited by Easy Mike; Nov 10, 2014 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 02:13 PM
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I am going tomorrow to see it again. I will post pics asap.

Thanks all
John

Originally Posted by Easy Mike
No. It is possible the car required paint repair before leaving the assembly line, but this was usually neatly done.



Probably not. How about a pic?
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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original owner always garage kept except for the last 2 years? why? sounds like a fishy story to me..
nothing wrong with a little overspray, maybe a minor repair in its 38 year life..

lack of rust and that low of miles is a major plus and is an excellent basis for a classic car. Panels can be adjusted to some degree..

buy your car on condition but expect to pay for lots of little nickel and dime stuff on something that old.

don't pay a big premium for a car that has been sitting outside. all that does is accelerate the deterioration.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 06:57 PM
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Take a screwdriver and a white towel. Always carry a towel.

Pull the kick panel (speaker grill) in the passenger side foot well area.
76's show their rust problems here first. People dont notice the passenger side leaking as quickly as the notice the drivers side and water pools in the floor board and in the body mount area. Use your knuckles to tap the floor pan FIRMLY. If it has any give or thin spots then walk away.

If the owner wont let you pull the panel then I would be a little leary.

Step two.
Lay the towel on the passenger seat and drape it into the floorboard.
Open and close the passenger door a few times. Dont slam it cause that might make the owner mad. Sit in the drivers seat and use the side of your hand to tap the moulding at the top of the windshield all the way from center to the door frame.
Look at the towel. If it had more than a few small flakes of rust then decline to buy it.

76's are not a big collectors car. They are pretty common. Unless it has a solid birdcage and a solid frame then walk away. I wish I wouldnt have been starstruck when I bought mine.

My 76 has some rust on the birdcage and the floorpans were shot. Floorpans are NO fun to replace. Luckily I can get away with wire brushing and sealing my cage.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 07:23 PM
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Thanks all for the replies. More to come tomorrow.

Known issues at this time are:
*Blown heater core
*Ac not working prior to core letting loose
*Wet floor on passenger side, a little damp under carpet but no rust
*Slight leak at thermostat (Possibly when he by passed the heater core)
*Urethane bumpers front an back breaking off. (Early 76)
*Needs new tires
*Slight sticking of parking brake but goes away when a handle is lifted slightly
*Weather seals around doors dry / brittle

Positives:
*23k original miles
*Not a single sign of rust on frame or birdcage.
*What appears to be original paint (I will post pics of overspray area)
*Interior in VG condition including seats, dash
*Only Clock and Alarm not working from an electrical standpoint.
*Original documentation including window sticker
*Car drives well with no smoke or hesitation

Originally Posted by drkness01
Take a screwdriver and a white towel. Always carry a towel.

Pull the kick panel (speaker grill) in the passenger side foot well area.
76's show their rust problems here first. People dont notice the passenger side leaking as quickly as the notice the drivers side and water pools in the floor board and in the body mount area. Use your knuckles to tap the floor pan FIRMLY. If it has any give or thin spots then walk away.

If the owner wont let you pull the panel then I would be a little leary.

Step two.
Lay the towel on the passenger seat and drape it into the floorboard.
Open and close the passenger door a few times. Dont slam it cause that might make the owner mad. Sit in the drivers seat and use the side of your hand to tap the moulding at the top of the windshield all the way from center to the door frame.
Look at the towel. If it had more than a few small flakes of rust then decline to buy it.

76's are not a big collectors car. They are pretty common. Unless it has a solid birdcage and a solid frame then walk away. I wish I wouldnt have been starstruck when I bought mine.

My 76 has some rust on the birdcage and the floorpans were shot. Floorpans are NO fun to replace. Luckily I can get away with wire brushing and sealing my cage.

Last edited by Ike27; Nov 11, 2014 at 01:49 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 01:44 PM
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I went back over the car.. Not a spot of rust anywhere. Floors are tight. 23K actuals miles.

Here are the paint, overspray and fit pictures. Thoughts?
Attached Images     
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 02:05 PM
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There shouldnt be overspray there.

Why are you so sure the miles are original?

Are you sure its not 123k?

Price is a pretty big factor here.

From the pics, the hood might just need an adjustment.
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 02:22 PM
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Positive.. I saw all the paperwork from the car was ordered and all the service records with mileage and dates (Original owner) Put 16K on it early then pretty much stored it with regular oil changes. Also, the frame, undercarriage and interior show very little mileage. I can pick this up for 9K.

Originally Posted by Vettebuyer5869
There shouldnt be overspray there.

Why are you so sure the miles are original?

Are you sure its not 123k?

Price is a pretty big factor here.

From the pics, the hood might just need an adjustment.
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 07:05 PM
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I'm thinking it's either had a respray or a repair on the driver side. The hood fitment is likely just adjustment. With the issues I'm thinking it would be more like $7K, those bumpers are not going to be easy or cheap, the AC/heat system could get costly too. I would go with vintage air and be done with the it, works much better than factory too.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 08:05 AM
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Hood appears not be latched well. Overspray could have been paint repair at St. Louis or at dealership after the car was delivered.

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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 08:16 AM
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Thanks Guys.. I pick her up Saturday.. Now to tackle the Heater core and bumper replacements!

Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Hood appears not be latched well. Overspray could have been paint repair at St. Louis or at dealership after the car was delivered.

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