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I have the entire dash out of my 77. I am making a list of things I should take care of while I have it apart. I already have the brake booster and heater core on my list. Is there anything else I should go ahead and replace since it's easier to do right now?
Change all the light bulbs.
Check the wiring for any abrasion
check the vacuum hoses for any abrasion
Label the location of the vacuum hoses
Check the headlight switch especially the condition of the wiper coil at the front.
If it has a clutch, check the condition of the pin on the pedal for wear-this is a bad spot for wear.
Roll back the odometer to zero
Change all the light bulbs.
Check the wiring for any abrasion
check the vacuum hoses for any abrasion
Label the location of the vacuum hoses
Check the headlight switch especially the condition of the wiper coil at the front.
If it has a clutch, check the condition of the pin on the pedal for wear-this is a bad spot for wear.
Roll back the odometer to zero
Steve L
73 coupe since new
Replace any loose grommets.
Seal any unused holes.
Repair torn/or upgrade firewall insulation(you won't regret it)
Suggestion: Have the speedo and tach restored. Also the clock? When GM designed the interior, I think they only contemplated removing the dashs only once to replace a warranty radio, etc issue. Your 77 was designed with no contemplation that 36 years later, the interior would be removed. The plastic substrates become brittle and removing the interior is difficult without damaging things. The more you renew, the better so you don't have to remove the dashs again.
Say a prayer cause it's alot worse getting it back than it was getting it out.
That's for sure! One thing that helped was putting a piece of metal between the speedo and the tach across the back and it reinforces it, really well. It adds triangulation to just the front and you can't bend it anymore. The spine between the speedo and the tach is weak and too much handling, makes it handle like a real life, dead Stingray in your lap. It ain't pretty, but it sure works good!
Next try this amazing trick to melt away aggravation in minutes, while installing your dash. Didn't damage the holes either, but you start like this and cinch it up as you plug in lamps. With the lamps, start on the bottom and work your way to the top, so you're not reaching around the lamps and their sockets, because the it doesn't take much to damage them.
Notice how that reinforcing bar, acts as a rear support for a long nylon tie wrap? Centered nicely too.
Change all the light bulbs.
Check the wiring for any abrasion
check the vacuum hoses for any abrasion
Label the location of the vacuum hoses
Check the headlight switch especially the condition of the wiper coil at the front.
If it has a clutch, check the condition of the pin on the pedal for wear-this is a bad spot for wear.
Roll back the odometer to zero
Steve L
73 coupe since new
You mentioned "wiper coil" where is its location, and what does it do? My wipers sometimes work and sometimes not. Pisses me off! I know I cant replace the wiper arm. Hoping maybe it might be this coil.
You mentioned "wiper coil" where is its location, and what does it do? My wipers sometimes work and sometimes not. Pisses me off! I know I cant replace the wiper arm. Hoping maybe it might be this coil.
At the front of the light switch there is a rheostat coil for dimming panel lights. There has been lot of problems with this coil burning out. Check the condition of it and make sure that there is no crap on it. This has nothing to do with the wipers.
At the front of the light switch there is a rheostat coil for dimming panel lights. There has been lot of problems with this coil burning out. Check the condition of it and make sure that there is no crap on it. This has nothing to do with the wipers.
Steve L
73 coupe since new
Thanks, I was just reaching. Trying to find an easy way for a fix. When I saw the term "wiper coil" I jumped at it hoping it to be a fix. Oh well…..
When you change the dash bulbs, change them all to LED ones. What a difference.
NOTE: If you change the turn signals to LED you have to swap out the flasher (located behind the passenger console) to a new electronic one.
I left my turn signals incandescent for now, but I can reach up and swap those when I get my new flasher circuit.
One more thing, check for water leakage along the seam between the bird cage and the firewall. i.e. the joint between the lower windshield "base or whatever it is called" and the firewall. This is where all the rivets run from one side to the other.
I noticed on mine, that there was enough rust spots on top of some of the instruments and brackets that indicated that these spots must have been exposed to water drops. Other areas had only a light surface rust.
I suspect that this seam may not have been water tight along it's length.
I forgot to do mine and I have a shut off switch in my engine compartment. I have to remove the carpet on the passenger side before opening the valve to see if it leaks.
if it does, I have to remove the right and center dash panels to replace the core.
I forgot to do mine and I have a shut off switch in my engine compartment. I have to remove the carpet on the passenger side before opening the valve to see if it leaks.
if it does, I have to remove the right and center dash panels to replace the core.
Ken
Yep, that's a good one! I changed mine, just because. But I found out, somebody had already changed it at one point, because they wrote the date they did it, with a permanent marker! I changed it anyways, seeing that I had a brand new one...
When you change the dash bulbs, change them all to LED ones. What a difference.
NOTE: If you change the turn signals to LED you have to swap out the flasher (located behind the passenger console) to a new electronic one.
I left my turn signals incandescent for now, but I can reach up and swap those when I get my new flasher circuit.
Ken
My suggestion, don't change them all. Install LEDs in the center shift console and the center instrument console. Keep the tach/speedo, turn signals incandescent. The dimmer will still work for the incandescent bulbs. The LEDs will draw a lot of less current so the reostat on the headlight switch won't overheat and burn out.
That's for sure! One thing that helped was putting a piece of metal between the speedo and the tach across the back and it reinforces it, really well. It adds triangulation to just the front and you can't bend it anymore. The spine between the speedo and the tach is weak and too much handling, makes it handle like a real life, dead Stingray in your lap. It ain't pretty, but it sure works good!
Great idea with the reinforcing bar. ALSO..notice the tach plate that attaches to the console back face. This place is different than the tach plate for the early C3's. I bought a repro driver's side panel for the 70 and the tach adaptor plate in the 70 didn't fit. I had to buy a new adapter plate for the tach from ebay.
BTW...after you've removed your driver's side dash and years have gone by (talking my 68 here) and the firewall harness has been removed around, it's going to be impossible to get the driver's side dash back because of wire harness/speedo/tach cable interference. For my 68, I had to remove the tach and speedo and then install the driver's side dash.. With the tach and speedo out, I could put my hands into the holes and move the wire harness etc around to make space for the tach and speedo...success. Once I got the wire harnesses in place, I removed the driver's side dash console and replaced the speedo and tach and re-installed the completed assembly.
About those pesky lights around the speedo and tach. I create a separate harness for all the light bulbs and a separate harness for all the connectors from the dash harness...all to be connected by a connector.
Great idea with the reinforcing bar. ALSO..notice the tach plate that attaches to the console back face. This place is different than the tach plate for the early C3's. I bought a repro driver's side panel for the 70 and the tach adaptor plate in the 70 didn't fit. I had to buy a new adapter plate for the tach from ebay.
BTW...after you've removed your driver's side dash and years have gone by (talking my 68 here) and the firewall harness has been removed around, it's going to be impossible to get the driver's side dash back because of wire harness/speedo/tach cable interference. For my 68, I had to remove the tach and speedo and then install the driver's side dash.. With the tach and speedo out, I could put my hands into the holes and move the wire harness etc around to make space for the tach and speedo...success. Once I got the wire harnesses in place, I removed the driver's side dash console and replaced the speedo and tach and re-installed the completed assembly.
About those pesky lights around the speedo and tach. I create a separate harness for all the light bulbs and a separate harness for all the connectors from the dash harness...all to be connected by a connector.
Good stuff! I read it twice and still have to really use my imagination to visualize how you did it. I did like the separate wire harness for the dash light. Next time it has to come out, I swear that's what I'm going to do!