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So I have a quick disconnect and a battery tender wired to my car. I lose all radio presets when I use the disconnect and I know there are devices for supplying a small current to the radio to retain the presets when the disconnect is open. I want one that can be added to my current setup and be contained in the battery compartment which is kind of crowded already with the disconnect and tender. I can find items that connect to the cigarette lighter or plug into the OBD (like I have one of those), neither of those are battery compartment contained. Anyone have a source for this?
I have a small wire that jumps across the disconnect with an inline fuse in it.
With the disconnect open, my radio memory and clock are the only thing running, checked with an ammeter and installed the smallest fuse possible.
Then opened the door, courtesy lights came on and instantly popped the fuse. Changed to LED bulbs, re-checked the amp draw and now it's all good...unless you forget to close the disconnect and turn anything on... but I've NEVER done that
M
I have a small wire that jumps across the disconnect with an inline fuse in it.
With the disconnect open, my radio memory and clock are the only thing running, checked with an ammeter and installed the smallest fuse possible.
Then opened the door, courtesy lights came on and instantly popped the fuse. Changed to LED bulbs, re-checked the amp draw and now it's all good...unless you forget to close the disconnect and turn anything on... but I've NEVER done that
M
Heh So courtesy light change to LED lowered the draw, good idea. I was thinking more of a way to add in a 9v transistor radio battery for power when disconnect is open. It's small potatoes but I tend to not use the disconnect as much due to the radio being a pita to reset.
Not sure how much draw there would be on that 9 V battery, but you can accomplish what you want with a couple of diodes. Connect the cathode of both diodes together and wire that to the radio for the preset memory. Then you connect the positive feed from the car to one of the anodes and the positive from the 9V battery to the other anode of a diode. The negative terminal of the 9V battery would be connected to ground. This will provide power to the radio preset memory when either the car supplies power and/or the 9V battery is good and would isolate the 2 supplies.
Heh So courtesy light change to LED lowered the draw, good idea....... I tend to not use the disconnect as much due to the radio being a pita to reset.
I wanted to use a very small fuse so if there was an issue it would pop, the 3 courtesy lights draw a surprising amount of juice, as did the old wind-up clock (quartz now of course)
Originally Posted by JimLentz
Not sure how much draw there would be on that 9 V battery, but you can accomplish what you want with a couple of diodes. Connect the cathode of both diodes together and wire that to the radio for the preset memory. Then you connect the positive feed from the car to one of the anodes and the positive from the 9V battery to the other anode of a diode. The negative terminal of the 9V battery would be connected to ground. This will provide power to the radio preset memory when either the car supplies power and/or the 9V battery is good and would isolate the 2 supplies.
If you are going to add a semi permanent 9v connection you should isolate it.
I don't think the 9v battery will last as long as you hope it will, seems to me I looked at those that plug into the cig-lighter when disconnecting batteries and was surprised as how little time was actually available
M
I had the disconnect on the negative post with a fused jumper across it so the clock and radio would have continuous ground. I used a 5 amp fuse that would handle the courtesy lights but would short if there was a dead short elsewhere in the system. Worked great except that the battery tender would blow the fuse. Not really sure why as I could leave it for days without the tender hooked up, but it would blow overnight if I hooked it up. I thought about putting the disconnect on the positive side and running a wire directly to the radio keep alive and clock bypassing the disconnect. I think this would be the best way to solve the issue. A single wire with a three amp fuse at the battery would work and no power would be anywhere else on the car.