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Won a "Class Winner" plaque last night at Christian Classic Cruisers last night and a Top 100 (out of about 400 ) trophy today at Conner's Car show in Keller (for Downs Syndrome).
Glenn Beck had 4 of his cars there including his 1934 Blower Bently.
Started tearing the rear suspension out of my 79. I replaced all the bushings and rebuilt the trailing arms years back. Probably haven't driven it 300 miles since. The supposedly better polyurethane bushings have turned to dust. I ordered all the stock type replacement stuff today. It hasn't been driven in the rain, so everything has come apart very easy.
Started my weekend taking the 76’ for one final drive. Made some measurements of the ride height and how the car handled. Not terribly, but there was quite a bit of wafting in the rear after hitting a bump. Very scientific measurement, four fingers and a thumb in the front.
Four fingers in the rear.
Got it home and up on the Quick jacks. Everything came apart without too much of a fight. I had heard horror stories of the lower shock mounts and trailing arm pivot bolts, but nothing rounded off or needed cutting. I give most of the credit to the ATF and acetone mix that I’ve been spraying on every threaded connection regularly for the last month.
The half shafts had a little bit of endplay, but nothing that looked too crazy scary. I’ll have to find the dial caliper to get an official measurement while I’m cleaning up and painting everything up under the car.
Compressed the rear shocks yesterday, they have yet to rebound today! That would definitely explain the wafting. The rest of the bushings didn’t look too bad, but definitely original to the car, and due for a replacement.
Front suspension wasn’t too bad either. Getting the springs out was the most nerve racking part. Following the instructions form TheCorvetteBen’s video they came out without losing any teeth.
It might look like there is, but there’s actually no tension on that brake line.
Now there’s a whole C3s worth of suspension that threw up in the garage. Rear bearings and control arms are getting shipped out to Vansteel. Found some new grade 8 hardware to replace the nasty stuff, but the hard to replace, fine thread, 1/8” increment original stuff is going in the parts tumbler.
I should have at least a week or two before the parts get back so in the meantime the frame is getting cleaned up and painted in all the places I can get to. After that I’ll report back with finger ride height measurements with the coilovers front and rear.
Last edited by Piersonpie; 05-20-2024 at 12:00 AM.
Replaced my failed, original brake booster this weekend. What an absolute bastard of a job. 4 different combinations of extensions, universals, and body positions just to get to the booster nuts, and whoever designed that brake pedal clevis clip deserves a special seat in hell. I'd rather do 20 more flat tappet cam swaps and break-ins in 110* heat that replace a booster in my car again. The good news is that the new booster fit perfectly, measured up exactly to the old one, and works great. Also looks better with its fresh black paint compared to the old and faded zinc coating on the old one.
QUOTE=Z0Tex;1607824571]Replaced my failed, original brake booster this weekend. What an absolute bastard of a job. 4 different combinations of extensions, universals, and body positions just to get to the booster nuts, and whoever designed that brake pedal clevis clip deserves a special seat in hell. I'd rather do 20 more flat tappet cam swaps and break-ins in 110* heat that replace a booster in my car again. The good news is that the new booster fit perfectly, measured up exactly to the old one, and works great. Also looks better with its fresh black paint compared to the old and faded zinc coating on the old one.
That’s probably why the last person to work on mine, put the pin through the clevis and not through the brake pedal arm.
When I took my 73 apart I found the brake pedal arm was just resting on top of the clevis pin.
I had driven it like that for over six years and who knows how many years the prior owner drove it that way.
Today I called UHaul and rented an auto carrier to take the rolling chassis to the painter this Wednesday.
Then I ordered a new set of Mac’s tie down straps for the trip.
I have an old set I’ve used for years that were marginal for strapping down a car.
Now I’ll have a nice set for the Corvette and the Jeep!
Sounds like something drained your battery completely dead, hence the fault code...charge it fully and start over
Deader than the massager after cheer camp. I question the integrity of the little maintainer I had on it. The floor model seems to have induced amperage so I will see if I have juice this evening.
Saturday Kristine and I went to a really nice car show in Woodland, CA and ran into forum member Boat196 who had his beautiful Cortez Silver C3 on display.
Congratulations to Bob as he won first place in the muscle car 70 to present class.
They shut down Main Street in Historic Downtown for the show and it was at least four blocks long on both sides with hundreds of cars.
I was there to look at several things, but mainly colors, and my final decision for the color will remain 68 Corvette Safari Yellow.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I pulled the wiper motor to investigate the parking switch...The switch works but only if I depress it fully which the actuator arm inside the motor does not do for some reason...Found a NOS switch but will have to investigate the arm...have a new motor on the way so I will have something to work in all this "no rain today" but it rains anyway weather. Wish I was a good looking weatherman so I could make huge amounts of money to be right 5% of the time
Finally got back into the garage and started fitting the wiper / door mechanism back into place while trying to remember where I put all the pieces
The torque spring is not working properly so that's a plus.
05-19-2024, 11:54 AM
) trophy today at Conner's Car show in Keller (for Downs Syndrome).
LMAO
