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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 05:16 PM
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From: Sebastian,FL
Default Assembly help needed

This is on my 77. I have removed the dash to take care of some things and have come across a couple questions. Hopefully this pic shows what I'm meaning. There is a gap between the heater box and the duct work that goes to the upper center dash vent, what should be there or was something not put back correctly by who ever was in there before me? Also I am replacing my tach board, I bought it from Willcox and have watched his video a few times already and will be again, but my question is about doing the zero set. Is this done when I put it back in the car or do. I do this on my bench, if I do it on my bench what is an acceptable power source, jiffy jump, battery, etc. thanks for any and all ideas
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by danh77
This is on my 77. I have removed the dash to take care of some things and have come across a couple questions. Hopefully this pic shows what I'm meaning. There is a gap between the heater box and the duct work that goes to the upper center dash vent, what should be there or was something not put back correctly by who ever was in there before me? Also I am replacing my tach board, I bought it from Willcox and have watched his video a few times already and will be again, but my question is about doing the zero set. Is this done when I put it back in the car or do. I do this on my bench, if I do it on my bench what is an acceptable power source, jiffy jump, battery, etc. thanks for any and all ideas
The gap on the defrost duct is correct. As far as the power source for the tach I would think a 12volt battery charger set on low charging rate would work but don't take my word for it maybe someone else on this site can verify that.
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 08:32 PM
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Use duct tape.
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 05:54 AM
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From: Sebastian,FL
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Im shocked to hear the gap is normal but pleased to hear nothing is missing. Wouldnt that effect the volume of air flow to the center defrost vent?
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 10:03 AM
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Like I said, use duct tape. That's what the AIM calls for.
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
Like I said, use duct tape. That's what the AIM calls for.
That's what I'll do. I must have missed it while scouring my AIM. Thanks for the info.
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by danh77
my question is about doing the zero set. Is this done when I put it back in the car or do. I do this on my bench, if I do it on my bench what is an acceptable power source, jiffy jump, battery, etc. thanks for any and all ideas
Do it on the bench and when doing the zero set, use a 12 volt power supply or a battery. Do not use a battery charger. Pull the needle, apply 12 volts and ground and then pop the needle back in place per the instructions on the video.

The car is a 75-77 style so taking the tach back out of the car is a pain. So.. before you install the tach back into the dash and the dash in the car, I would run a jumper wire from the distributor to the coil input on the board, steal 12 volts and ground from somewhere on the car and then make sure everything is working fine by starting the car. Then install it, if you have a installed failure you'll know it's not the tach.










Willcox

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jan 18, 2015 at 12:38 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 12:58 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
Like I said, use duct tape. That's what the AIM calls for.
Just a suggestion; duct tape is not for duct work even if the AIM refrences it. It will eventually dry out and give out. I would suggest aluminum tape' expensive but will outlast the car.

Regards,
Pete
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by PeteL46
Just a suggestion; duct tape is not for duct work even if the AIM refrences it. It will eventually dry out and give out. I would suggest aluminum tape' expensive but will outlast the car.

Regards,
Pete
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