dugsgms74

So I searched a bit and it seems that replacing the fuel lines with the body on is one SOB of a job. Was wondering, would removal of the fuel tank make it any easier? Also, any tips from anyone who has done it?, is it even possible?

Easy Mike

Not really.

briankeery

I've talked to guys at shows Doug, that have actually cut the new lines into 2 or 3 pieces and then used compression fittings to put them back together once they had them put into place.

71scgc

Impossible without sectioning the lines or raising the body.

Carter

Easy Mike

Which, of course, negates the safety of one piece fuel lines.

80Baby

Even if your body mounts and shims were rust free and in otherwise great shape, it would still be labor intensive. But I'd bet the farm they're not. That just adds to the misery - IMMENSELY!

briankeery

Agree 100%, but if we're to the point of lines needing replaced......I'd take my chances with a compression fitting vs the alternative of a leak.

Mooser

As one who has done it...
Removing the tank is of little or no benefit other than right at the end when I was straightening the lines out and I could sit in that area and look at it from the inside.

I don't think it can be done with a welded in trans crossmember at all

I had the rear, driveshaft and trans crossmember out, car on stands about 20" off the ground

You need to start them sort of sideways with the bulk of the line out the drivers side and go up between the frame and body sideways, then twist and roll them up over the frame dog-leg as you bring the front of the lines in under the car.

The lines will want to go in between the diagonal brace at the dogleg beside where the trailing arm bolt comes through, if they do you need to pull them back out and route them behind (in front I guess)

Two people are needed, one to work in the wheelwell and guide the lines as the other wiggles, turns, twists, kicks, shoves, hits, bangs, kicks, curses, prays, cries from underneath.

Once it's over the hump you need to spend some time coaxing everything back straight while it's still loose and then start clamping.

PIA job, I think I'd really consider the compression joint if I needed to do it again.
M

68/70Vette

Agree. To replace the gas lines as one piece, you only need to separate the body and frame by about 10 inches or so. Jack the car up in the air...build supports..many supports for the body pan. Then unbolt the body from the frame and lower the frame enough to get the gas lines in. This is what I did for my 68. When I dropped my frame the engine and tranny were missing...this made the frame weight very light. When I dropped the frame, this is when I replaced my gas tank. A lot easier to get the gas tank out when the body is lofted.

The brake lines can be replaced in one piece without removing the body from the frame...did this several times.

dugsgms74

Thanks for all the replies. Someone changed the lines in my 68 in the past and used the compression fittings trick, works well but since they replaced the tank with one w/o a return line nipple I guess they decided there was no point in replacing the return line. Id like to install the correct tank and install the return line. I guess the fact that its a early 68 and has no diagonal braces on the rear kick-up wont really make life any easier. Oh well, runs fine now so its really not a urgent repair anyway. Maybe I'll tackle it in the future, been putting it off but getting to the point where I've fixed almost all the bubba stuff and there's not much left to do on the car.

terrys6t8roadster

We'll find out for sure next week, just waiting for the rest of parts to show up. Plan on using # 6 for return and # 8 for pressure. Will be using aluminimized lines, body on and do them in one piece. T

dugsgms74

Let us know how it goes!

terrys6t8roadster

Well it seems I'm not as good as I think I am. We could get the 1/2 line up to the fixed crossmember, but when routing through the tight bends at the kick up would cause kinking in the line. Using the original 3/8 line for return and will have a union in the 1/2 line about 10" in front of the kick up area. We were also fighting the limited area between the body to frame due to the welded in roll bar. So when all is done and said it will be a 2 piece line. T