***DIY: 68-72 Wiper door vacuum to electric conversion***
#81
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I noticed you had to clock the motor differently than I did due to your car having air conditioning. It might have worked better if you used a RH motor, that way you could have possibly mounted it parallel to the firewall like I did. Anyways, I will have to edit my how-to to reflect the interference that having A/C will cause; is it ok if I use your pic to illustrate this issue?
#82
Looks great Ray, looking forward to seeing it in action!
I noticed you had to clock the motor differently than I did due to your car having air conditioning. It might have worked better if you used a RH motor, that way you could have possibly mounted it parallel to the firewall like I did. Anyways, I will have to edit my how-to to reflect the interference that having A/C will cause; is it ok if I use your pic to illustrate this issue?
I noticed you had to clock the motor differently than I did due to your car having air conditioning. It might have worked better if you used a RH motor, that way you could have possibly mounted it parallel to the firewall like I did. Anyways, I will have to edit my how-to to reflect the interference that having A/C will cause; is it ok if I use your pic to illustrate this issue?
You can use my picture. I sure appreciate this thread. Saved me a ton of money. I can now brave the rainy roads.
The ac will soon be replaced with a Vintage Air system so that box on the firewall will ultimately be empty space. I will probably orientate it better after that.
Hardest part of the job to me was the switch and bracket under the
wiper door. I raised the original bracket up higher with a short stack of washers and was able to bolt the switch to it. Then stuck a small 1/4" thick rubber self sticky bumper pad to the bottom of the wiper arm to make contact with the switch. The pad on the arm was a compromise. I was tired of messing with it.
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7t2vette (10-02-2017)
#84
your electrical diagram
Greetings,
Love your conversion and am the process of converting my own 71 vette wiper door. I am by no means an expert and almost not a backyard mechanic. I did however manage to convert my headlights to electric (awesome). My question is, and I don't mean to sound stupid but, in your diagram, 12v+ goes to any continuous hot fuse (right?) 12v- to any ground (right?). I just don't understand where the solenoid on the back of the tach wire in and where did the 85 86 relay come from, its not one of your parts you listed you purchased.. I am sorry if this questions seems remedial, but it has been driving me crazy. I know this is an old thread and hope you are still watching. Just cant bring myself to spend $1000 on the units available.
Thank you
Intrepidram
Love your conversion and am the process of converting my own 71 vette wiper door. I am by no means an expert and almost not a backyard mechanic. I did however manage to convert my headlights to electric (awesome). My question is, and I don't mean to sound stupid but, in your diagram, 12v+ goes to any continuous hot fuse (right?) 12v- to any ground (right?). I just don't understand where the solenoid on the back of the tach wire in and where did the 85 86 relay come from, its not one of your parts you listed you purchased.. I am sorry if this questions seems remedial, but it has been driving me crazy. I know this is an old thread and hope you are still watching. Just cant bring myself to spend $1000 on the units available.
Thank you
Intrepidram
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7t2vette (10-02-2017)
#85
Instructor
I believe the 85 and 86 are connections to the 5 pin relay, not a separate relay. Also, I am pretty sure that, in this case, -12V is ground.
Good luck on the conversion!
Good luck on the conversion!
#86
Racer
The schematic looks like two seperate relays however as said above it's just showing pins 85 and 86 of a five pin relay. Your right, -12v is ground.
#88
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Greetings,
Love your conversion and am the process of converting my own 71 vette wiper door. I am by no means an expert and almost not a backyard mechanic. I did however manage to convert my headlights to electric (awesome). My question is, and I don't mean to sound stupid but, in your diagram, 12v+ goes to any continuous hot fuse (right?) 12v- to any ground (right?). I just don't understand where the solenoid on the back of the tach wire in and where did the 85 86 relay come from, its not one of your parts you listed you purchased.. I am sorry if this questions seems remedial, but it has been driving me crazy. I know this is an old thread and hope you are still watching. Just cant bring myself to spend $1000 on the units available.
Thank you
Intrepidram
Love your conversion and am the process of converting my own 71 vette wiper door. I am by no means an expert and almost not a backyard mechanic. I did however manage to convert my headlights to electric (awesome). My question is, and I don't mean to sound stupid but, in your diagram, 12v+ goes to any continuous hot fuse (right?) 12v- to any ground (right?). I just don't understand where the solenoid on the back of the tach wire in and where did the 85 86 relay come from, its not one of your parts you listed you purchased.. I am sorry if this questions seems remedial, but it has been driving me crazy. I know this is an old thread and hope you are still watching. Just cant bring myself to spend $1000 on the units available.
Thank you
Intrepidram
The above replies are correct - terminals 85 and 86 are the coil terminals of the relay, while terminals 30, 87, and 87a are the contact terminals of the same relay. This is what makes it a 5 pin or terminal relay. Sorry for the confusion, maybe this pic will illustrate it better:
The +12v can come from a switched or continuous fused source, your choice. If you use an existing fuse, just make sure the circuit and fuse can handle the additional load. I chose to run a new separately fused feed to the battery.
The -12v would be any good ground source.
The solenoid on the back of the tach has a 2 wire connector; you are going to disconnect that connector from the solenoid, and then connect those 2 wires to terminals 85 and 86 of the relay, as per my diagram. Those 2 wires were controlling the coil of the solenoid, and now you are going to use them to control the coil of the relay.
If you have any more questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
BTW, can everyone see my pics in this thread? I haven’t had a chance to upload them here since the photobucket mess, but it looks like they are showing up again...at least to me anyways!!
Last edited by 7t2vette; 10-02-2017 at 09:44 PM.
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gleninsandiego (05-29-2018)
#89
Safety Car
I bought the small 5-pin relay at Autozone for about 5 bucks. I gave up on the issue I was having with the motor turning more than 180 degrees (opening, then partially close) and ordered a new one. Mine will also be mounted parallel to the firewall. I think it gives it a cleaner look.
And for those who just joined this thread.... a peek at my "over-ride" switches for the headlight & wiper doors. I put a pair of power window switches in the ashtray.
And for those who just joined this thread.... a peek at my "over-ride" switches for the headlight & wiper doors. I put a pair of power window switches in the ashtray.
#91
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I don't have the time or desire to produce a kit, so I did the next best thing - freely share exactly how to do this with everyone.
Mazda Miata and Ford Probe headlight motors are basically the same, and they are readily available both new and used.
#92
wiper door conversion
If you have any questions while doing this conversion, feel free to ask, and do post your results when done!
As for your question about the headlight light components, your end result will only be as good as the sum of all the parts; in other words, if the rest of the parts are not functioning properly, replacing just the actuator will not fix it. The same goes for the wiper door conversion.
As for your question about the headlight light components, your end result will only be as good as the sum of all the parts; in other words, if the rest of the parts are not functioning properly, replacing just the actuator will not fix it. The same goes for the wiper door conversion.
#93
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If after reading that post and looking at the pics and
vids you still have questions, I will be more than happy to try to answer your questions.
Bruce
#95
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Ford Probe headlight motors are almost identical, but I have no personal experience with them so I can't say that they will work or not.
The PWM controller and the limit switch are very common items, so even if the exact ones I used are no longer available, suitable replacements should be no problem to find.
#96
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Hey Bruce-vettekazy
The Ford Probe 93-97 will work- as it uses an isolated ground as well. The only difference is the Miata motors have a 6 pin harness and the Ford has a 4. The extra green wire in the Miata is for a warning light in the dash which is not used.
Richard
The Ford Probe 93-97 will work- as it uses an isolated ground as well. The only difference is the Miata motors have a 6 pin harness and the Ford has a 4. The extra green wire in the Miata is for a warning light in the dash which is not used.
Richard
#97
Hello just finishing up installation of wiper door mod.. I am having some diff. in wiring ..My motor works touching blue with red to 12 v opens door touching just red to 12 v closes door.. I have wired relay as per your instructions.. the connection for the relay coil 85 and 86 are wired into a two prong plug with Lt blue and two yellow wires. when I turn on my wipers nothing happens seems my 85 coil wire is not getting energized what should I ck? Regards Mark
#98
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Hello just finishing up installation of wiper door mod.. I am having some diff. in wiring ..My motor works touching blue with red to 12 v opens door touching just red to 12 v closes door.. I have wired relay as per your instructions.. the connection for the relay coil 85 and 86 are wired into a two prong plug with Lt blue and two yellow wires. when I turn on my wipers nothing happens seems my 85 coil wire is not getting energized what should I ck? Regards Mark
What year is your car? Did you use a Miata or a Probe motor? Are you using a PWM speed controller?
Last edited by 7t2vette; 02-18-2019 at 08:23 PM.
#99
Were exact measurements of the bracket(s) ever posted?
I wonder how hard it'd be to just 3d print all the brackets needed, if you use double the thickness, Nylon filament gets comparable to aluminum in strength, and it's trivial to add extra buttressing to the design.
the actuator linkage might be a little tougher to print though
I wonder how hard it'd be to just 3d print all the brackets needed, if you use double the thickness, Nylon filament gets comparable to aluminum in strength, and it's trivial to add extra buttressing to the design.
the actuator linkage might be a little tougher to print though
#100
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Were exact measurements of the bracket(s) ever posted?
I wonder how hard it'd be to just 3d print all the brackets needed, if you use double the thickness, Nylon filament gets comparable to aluminum in strength, and it's trivial to add extra buttressing to the design.
the actuator linkage might be a little tougher to print though
I wonder how hard it'd be to just 3d print all the brackets needed, if you use double the thickness, Nylon filament gets comparable to aluminum in strength, and it's trivial to add extra buttressing to the design.
the actuator linkage might be a little tougher to print though
I could see it hitting the exhaust and looking just like the little Army men I used to set on fire as a kid!!!