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I'm interested in a '78-'82. I live just outside of Philly.
My budget for the car will probably be $8k max if its from a dealership, and more like $5K if it's from an owner.
I have absolutely no experience or knowledge of fixing cars myself. I can change a tire and put gas in the tank. I'm willing to learn, but I'm starting from zero.
I've read some tips about what to look for/look out for when checking out an old Corvette. I guess any tips and additional pros/cons for the range of 78-82 would be very helpful.
Why a different price from a dealer as oppose to a private seller. If your will to spend 8K then 8K should get you a better car from a private seller tan 5K will IF you know what your looking at. I personally would much rather buy an older car from a private seller than a dealer any day. I think your selling your self short but thats my opinion.
Why a different price from a dealer as oppose to a private seller. If your will to spend 8K then 8K should get you a better car from a private seller tan 5K will IF you know what your looking at. I personally would much rather buy an older car from a private seller than a dealer any day. I think your selling your self short but thats my opinion.
A different price only because a dealer would allow financing/payments.
#1 car has a steering wheel from a 1976 model. Very odd.
The others look fine. My BIGGEST concern with any of the 3 would be RUST. You will have to look under carpet, around and down the windshield frame, under the car...everywhere you can. I would pic the most solid car I could find.
My suggestion to you is to buy a few books about them and read and study all you can. This way you know what to look for and knowing what you are looking at! Going in blind will only hurt you in the end.
Unless I was going bucks up really pristine I would never consider buying a c3 from a dealer, and even then with the private seller you almost always get more bang for your buck,
I'm in florida and 8 K will buy a rather nice 78-82 not trailer queen but nice driver but 5 k gets into the ones needing a heck of a lot more work, if I had 8 k to spend on a 78-82 and had limited wrench spinning skills I would take my time finding a really good car in fact you need someone more vette savvy to look at the cars with you an unbiased eye,
If you can save up to 10-12 k then you can get into super nice 78-82's but you will have to shop around and be ready to jump.
Unless I was going bucks up really pristine I would never consider buying a c3 from a dealer, and even then with the private seller you almost always get more bang for your buck,
I'm in florida and 8 K will buy a rather nice 78-82 not trailer queen but nice driver but 5 k gets into the ones needing a heck of a lot more work, if I had 8 k to spend on a 78-82 and had limited wrench spinning skills I would take my time finding a really good car in fact you need someone more vette savvy to look at the cars with you an unbiased eye,
If you can save up to 10-12 k then you can get into super nice 78-82's but you will have to shop around and be ready to jump.
Totally agree! Great advice here.
I would never buy from an average dealer. I would buy from a classic dealer. However the classic dealers will usually have nicer cars at a higher price.
If you have to barrow got yo your bank. Get an approved line and buy a nice car from a Pvt. Pty. Bigger bang for the buck.
If your not skilled to do it your self it will be costly for a fixer driver.
$8 to $10 K will get you a decent driver that you can enjoy.
$5 k will get you a builder that needs $10 to $15k just in parts.
...My budget for the car will probably be $8k max if its from a dealership, and more like $5K if it's from an owner...
Keep that information to yourself. There is no need for a potential to seller to know what you might spend.
...#1 car has a steering wheel from a 1976 model. Very odd...
Car #1 has the standard steering column which got carry over Vega wheels. Only the T/T got the three spoke steering wheels, but I agree, it's out of the ordinary to see the standard column.. Everybody and his brother wanted T/T.
Good luck with the hunt.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Aug 6, 2015 at 08:22 AM.
Take a look at all of them. I got my car from Conte's, so I'm a little biased. Take a ride down to Vineland, and take that one for a ride, it can't hurt.
Easy Mike, what is wrong with living outside of Philly? There are many of us here on this forum that live in this area.
Car number #3 looks like the bigest bang for the buck. Its a dealer however its in a price range that is affordable and looks like a nice driver. Never know condition of cage or frame. If it in the East or North you need to look closly. Southern or Western cars can have rust issues; just not as bad.
Car #1 has the standard steering column which got carry over Vega wheels. Only the T/T got the three spoke steering wheels, but I agree, it's out of the ordinary to see the standard column.. Everybody and his brother wanted T/T.
Thanks for posting. I stand corrected. I have been messing with corvettes since the late 1990's and I had no idea that wheel was used any longer than 1976 model year. I guess that also goes to show how often the standard column was used in later years.
To the OP...there is no way you can tell a good car from photos at this distance. A shinny body may be hiding a rusted frame. "Excessive"
frame and birdcage rust should be a deal breaker unless its a very rare optioned car IMHO. The year models you are looking at will not apply as the "rare" options were gone by then. I would put MORE importance on non rusted frame and BC than low miles, original motor, etcetera. Again just MHO. It is a BIG DEAL and $$$$ to repair "excessive" frame and BC rust.
Definitely any excessive rust or other easily spotted issues will be a deal-breaker for me, on any of the cars.
Assuming that #2 and #3 are equal in terms of having no deal-breaker rust type issues, any pros/cons otherwise?
#2 has 60,000 miles and #3 has over 100,000 miles. Is this a big deal?
Its all about which body style you like best really. I would put a lot more importance on CONDITION than miles IMHO. Unless a low mile car actually LOOKS like its low miles...most do not. Age and sunlight have a way of aging cars unless it was stored indoors most of its life and those cars usually bring higher dollars.
Keep in mind if your state requires emissions test on that old a car. Visual test of emissions equipment. If so , if its all missing that could be lots of money to replace.
Red car looks to be missing the emissions pump. Not sure if I see a A/C compressor.
Black or white cars have no motor pix in the ads. Who posts a car for sale without a motor pic???
Last edited by Dean_Fuller; Aug 6, 2015 at 12:09 PM.