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Whenever I get a new C3 with headlight problems, I replace everything. It will run you around $300 but you will have all new stuff and won't have to spend hours troubleshooting and then waiting for the next old part to break.
Hzz... The issue isn't in the switch or the tank... if it works on one side it will work on the other side.
If the actuator is new (and verified good) and you know the relay is good then I'd look hard at the linkage including the pivot ***** (make sure they are loose and free), check the linkage hardware bushings on the rods and make sure you have all the correct springs intact.
If you look at the chart below, make sure you don't have a hose issue (cracked or loose) by checking hoses on the relay, the actuator and the yellow hoses at the vacuum tank.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Aug 7, 2015 at 01:20 PM.
When I had the old actuator out, I checked the movement of the headlight door....it seemed to go up and down normally, without any excessive force so I think the bushings are all OK.....
Springs are attached correctly.
There may be a leak somewhere...At this point I'm not sure.
I found the driver's actuator to be leaking, and I replaced it with a new one.
I also had 2 spare actuator relays (new) that I substituted for the ones in the car.
Ok, you have new parts. Have you checked them for leaks? The repops are notorious for leaking. Many here have found that out.
Assuming the actuators and the relays are in good working order, check and test the vacuum tank for leaks. Easy to do, just disconnect and mark the hoses going to it, connect a test hose to one of the ports, block the other two, and try to blow through it. Simple pass/fail.....
I have both headlights working now...but...the passenger one goes up slowly, the driver's goes up very very slowly and not at idle...only when I rev car up from idle. Then it does go all the way up eventually.
Driver's goes down quickly, passengers goes down slowly.
Ok, you have new parts. Have you checked them for leaks? The repops are notorious for leaking. Many here have found that out.
Assuming the actuators and the relays are in good working order, check and test the vacuum tank for leaks. Easy to do, just disconnect and mark the hoses going to it, connect a test hose to one of the ports, block the other two, and try to blow through it. Simple pass/fail.....
I put a new seal on the driver's actuator. It still wouldn't hold a vacuum. Was better, but still dropped slowly with the mity vac.
So then I took the old actuator and put a new seal on it. It held the vacuum.
Put the old actuator with new seal in the driver's side, and the headlight goes up!
Now, one more question- the passenger's side goes up first, then there is a delay until the driver's side raises....I didn't time it but it was a long delay.
Is it the relay that causes the delay? Or something else?
headlight pnls go up about a third of the way then stop lights r on tried pulling them up manually no good any suggestions
This is an old thread. You should start a new one.
BUT before you start a new thread I suggest you do some study. You also NEED a Mitee Vac or similar hand vacuum pump!!! They are inexpensive and available at any auto parts store. Without one you are working blind as you have no idea what components can or cannot hold vacuum!