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I am having the original 350 engine in my 71 rebuilt. The restoration shop I am dealing with rattled off that the rebuild would consist of boring the cylinders 30 over, new pistons, new rods and bearings, polishing the crankshaft, new oil pump, and water pump among some other things. My knowledge is somewhat limited to the internal parts of combustion engines. The price they quoted for pulling the engine, doing the work I mentioned above, and reinstalling the engine was $5912.00. In your opinion, is that a reasonable quote? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by adkint; Aug 16, 2015 at 03:20 PM.
Reason: typo
If you can't do the engine R&R yourself then you are going to be forced to have someone do it. If you trust the shop to do this job, he is probably in align with what most shops are going to charge. So do you trust them?
As for engine work, before taking my engine in for an overhaul, I checked with 3 engine shops and received detailed quotes. They were all within a few hundred of each other. I went with a shop recommended by a co worker and a forum member. Not disappointed.
I paid 5k for a complete overhaul, everything but the block was replaced. Pistons were cracked, crank was out of tolerance, cyl bores were worn. Kind of made up my mind. Just bore and stroke it, retro roller cam, forged rotating assy, aftermarket heads, etc, etc. from intake to oil pan all new. I still needed to replace the water pump, distributor and ignition wires, carb, all in another couple of grand. Nothing is cheap, everything was replaced.
So bottom line, if he's using good parts the disassembly, inspection, machining, parts, reassembly probably are in align with any machine shop.
Last edited by Sunstroked; Aug 16, 2015 at 03:34 PM.
Sunstroked,
Thank you for the reply. I will definitely have to have this work done for me. My limited mechanical knowledge is probably evident by misquoting some of the work that is to be done on my engine. It needs a complete overhaul. Your reply has been very helpful.
Thanks again.
I am having the original 350 engine in my 71 rebuilt. The restoration shop I am dealing with rattled off that the rebuild would consist of boring the cylinders 30 over, new pistons, new rods and bearings, polishing the crankshaft, new oil pump, and water pump among some other things. My knowledge is somewhat limited to the internal parts of combustion engines. The price they quoted for pulling the engine, doing the work I mentioned above, and reinstalling the engine was $5912.00. In your opinion, is that a reasonable quote? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Did it include a new camshaft, new cam bearings, new lifters, new rocker arms, new pushrods, rebuild the heads (new valves, new valve springs), new timing gears, new timing chain, etc.?
Why don't you get an itemized list from the rebuild shop and post it here before you let them rebuild it so expert Forum members can give you advice?
Also...unless you are trying to keep the car original, have you priced a new complete engine (crate and store the original engine)?
That amount seems very high. Unless you're planning on a roller cam with lots of exotic HP parts, I would get another estimate. Make a phone call to a few local machine shops.
Again, if members would complete their profile, other local members could make recommendations.
I am a novice when it comes to rebuilding an engine, so I have been doing a lot of reading on the process. Last week a buddy who is restoring a 72 LT-1 and I, 72 base 350 went to a local shop and toured his facility talking to him about rebuilding both of ours. Including putting the rebuilt engine on the dyno and breaking it in, he was quoting an estimate of $3000 for the LT-1, and around $2300 for the base 350. He said he would give us a more accurate estimate before he started once he had a chance to look at everything. That also comes with a 2 year warranty, which he is willing to toll until we get our cars back together and on the road.
There's an overhaul and then there's an overhaul. You should educate yourself on what's involved and then see what your're getting for your money. For instance, take cylinder heads, some shops do a valve grind and knurling, paint the heads blue and that's it. On the other hand another shop will magniflux for cracks, surface, replace the valves, install new hardened seats and do a nice three angle grind. Also, see if the guy you're talking to will be doing the work. Often times he may send out the work to someone else. BY the way, your 30 over 350 will now displace 355 cubic inches.
2X and getting a list of stuff that will be looked at besides that which you mentioned that pretains to the short block. The valve guides wear out, is the shop going to rebuild the heads and preform machine work such as press-in new bronze guides? Looking at the short blk, was there any mention of stress-plate honing, and as mentioned, pressing in new bearings?
2X also on obtaining knowledge on rebuilding a sbc, then you would have an idea of the machine shop, lingo, such as the term "stress plate hone".
A topic of discussion before you start any work should be if they are going to deck the block. This is a process where the block surface that meets the bottom on the cylinder head is planed to make it absolutely flat. During this process it is possible you could loose the factory stamped numbers on your block. This would have an effect on your car's value as you have indicated it the original block.
I would also ask why they are replacing your rods. if they are in good shape you could just recondition them and reuse them. No need to replace unless they are broken or you are planning more horsepower. I would also question going 30 over. Has the engine been rebuilt before? If it is the original engine you want to bore it the smallest amount possible to clean it up. By boring 30 over straight off you limit the future rebuilds if needed.
As Low buck and Easy Mike said, get a few of the books about rebjilding the small block. I think I might be headed to some serious engine work - somerhing between head gaskets and total rebuild or replacement. So I bought "HOW TO REBUILD HOUR CHEVY SMALL BLOCK" by David Visard. Well woth the 16 bjcks to understand what is all involved. I also bought the book about cams and valves and the book CHEVY SMALL BLOCK CYLINDER NEADS. I dont have the skills to do a rebuild but the readings give me an understanding of what needs to be done. Or just as important, not done.
As Low buck and Easy Mike said, get a few of the books about rebjilding the small block. I think I might be headed to some serious engine work - somerhing between head gaskets and total rebuild or replacement. So I bought "HOW TO REBUILD HOUR CHEVY SMALL BLOCK" by David Visard. Well woth the 16 bjcks to understand what is all involved. I also bought the book about cams and valves and the book CHEVY SMALL BLOCK CYLINDER NEADS. I dont have the skills to do a rebuild but the readings give me an understanding of what needs to be done. Or just as important, not done.
I bought that book many years ago and used it the guide me through my first sbc rebuild. Even if you never build an engine, it's very informative and entertaining to read. I still remember how he explained how he goofed up the gasket while they were trying to shoot the photo for the cover.