When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Convert top hold down bow mechanism on my 68 covert looks a little tired, but I think it would work with decent release cables. Ones on the car look like they are for a lawn mower. I have a WTB on the parts forum, but any vendor suggestion is appreciated. Tried all the normal ones and found only for newer model years. With colder weather, I actually had to put the top up for the first time! RA
The cables were the same style used on lawn mowers, it's called Bowden Cable. It was also used on mid year hood catch release between the lock.
I know the mid years use cables under the deck lid but (and it may just be 68) I didn't think the 68 used them, I thought the handle to rear soft top lock was a rod on 68-75.
The cables were the same style used on lawn mowers, it's called Bowden Cable. It was also used on mid year hood catch release between the lock.
I know the mid years use cables under the deck lid but (and it may just be 68) I didn't think the 68 used them, I thought the handle to rear soft top lock was a rod on 68-75.
The locks have a history of the latch spring breaking and when this happens the latch won't spring back and hold the soft top lock pin.
Willcox
I found the diagram on the AIM and it looks like the prev owner installed the left and right latches on the wrong sides so the lever is in the wrong place to connect to a rod. I was not sure if this was the correct set-up, considering all the other mistakes on the car by the PO. Springs on mine appear broken also, but now that I know what is the correct installation, it will be easy to fix. Attached is the PO bad installation. RA
Convert top hold down bow mechanism on my 68 covert looks a little tired, but I think it would work with decent release cables. Ones on the car look like they are for a lawn mower. I have a WTB on the parts forum, but any vendor suggestion is appreciated. Tried all the normal ones and found only for newer model years. With colder weather, I actually had to put the top up for the first time! RA
RA
68 convertibles produced through Dec. of 1967 actually did use Bowden cables, just not with the bubba setup you have. Complaints of them rattling caused a switch to the rods that were then used to the end of production.
The locks you show are late 68+ style with split pivot pins. Car built through late April 1968 used a single pin as shown in the attached picture.
68 convertibles produced through Dec. of 1967 actually did use Bowden cables, just not with the bubba setup you have. Complaints of them rattling caused a switch to the rods that were then used to the end of production.
The locks you show are late 68+ style with split pivot pins. Car built through late April 1968 used a single pin as shown in the attached picture.
John
Hmmmm. Trim tag build date on mine was Oct 16, 1967. So, someone switched out the latches for the newer type......then bubba tried to use cables like the early style, but got the left and right sides mixed up. The one cable, because of the sharp bend in it hardly moves. I did not show it in the photo, but bubba did not have a cable long enough for the passenger side, so there are two lawnmower cables spliced together. (bubba probably swiped one off his neighbor's mower). I just put the top up for the first time this week, having the car only since July. Could not get the latches to engage at all, which makes it a little windy driving, almost as bad as the ill-fitting top of the MG Midget I used to own. RA
68 convertibles produced through Dec. of 1967 actually did use Bowden cables, just not with the bubba setup you have. Complaints of them rattling caused a switch to the rods that were then used to the end of production.
The locks you show are late 68+ style with split pivot pins. Car built through late April 1968 used a single pin as shown in the attached picture.
John
Are these the correct bolts for the exterior chrome bezel? current ones on car are just grade 2 bolts.
Are these the correct bolts for the exterior chrome bezel? current ones on car are just grade 2 bolts.
RA
The bolt you show in the picture is the pinch bolt used on the front windshield locks on soft and hard tops for all of 68 and early 69. See attached picture.
The rear chrome bezel should have studs on it that pass through the lock on the underside of the rear deck. You can see the nuts used to hold them in place on the studs in my earlier posted picture.
The bolt you show in the picture is the pinch bolt used on the front windshield locks on soft and hard tops for all of 68 and early 69. See attached picture.
The rear chrome bezel should have studs on it that pass through the lock on the underside of the rear deck. You can see the nuts used to hold them in place on the studs in my earlier posted picture.
John
John- thanks. should have noticed those on the front hold down. Attached is the bezel for the rear deck that is on my car. I have been looking for a replacement with two holes and for the correct bolts. If I had to guess, when prev owner removed the bezels to repaint the car, he broke the studs off the bezels, drilled holes and used the crappy bolts shown, mixed up the right and left latches, used the cables and got the messed up system I am trying to correct. Now I have to find someone who still stocks the bezels. A couple places I noticed no longer carry them. RA
John- thanks. should have noticed those on the front hold down. Attached is the bezel for the rear deck that is on my car. I have been looking for a replacement with two holes and for the correct bolts. If I had to guess, when prev owner removed the bezels to repaint the car, he broke the studs off the bezels, drilled holes and used the crappy bolts shown, mixed up the right and left latches, used the cables and got the messed up system I am trying to correct. Now I have to find someone who still stocks the bezels. A couple places I noticed no longer carry them. RA