When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What distributor do I have? I'm trying to determine what distributor I have so that I have an idea of whether or not to change the carb (Holly) etc. back to OE or if I should keep what's there...and if I keep what's there, than how do I get rid of the CEL that is currently lit up! I've also heard that if I have the OE distributor that the car will not run properly with the Holly carb that's currently installed. It seems to run fine now, so I'm not sure I know if it's running poorly or not... it idles fine etc.
There are several hoses that go nowhere (most related to the smog wart) and some electrical outputs that I'm guessing go to the OE carb which the Holly carb does not have...in turn lights up the CEL....how do people solve this???
I've attached some pics so that you know what I have...any suggestions on the most cost effective route would be helpful. This is a project car and is not going to be a show car but I do want some reliability out of it.
Also, any suggestion on part numbers etc would be helpful! Thanks!!!
I'm assuming this is a 1981 car by your screen name?
I don't know 1981's, but it sure looks factory to me. If not original wires.
To take a quick sidebar: PLEASE remove that air filter. They are NOTORIOUS for becoming a gas-vapor-collector then igniting when (not if...when) you have a backfire. The only way you'll know anything is wrong is when the paint starts bubbling off your hood. And because the hood is fiberglass and, therefore, combustible...well...lets just say that there have been many of these cars burned to the ground.
Any normal Chinese stamped drop-base air cleaner with a typical/normal pleated paper air filter is a VAST improvement over that fire-causing device.
Others will, I'm sure, confirm/deny my suspicion on the distributor.
As to what direction to go, that's up to you. If the rest of the car is VERY original, perhaps an original carb would be cool. If the rest of the car is not VERY original, then you may want to keep the Holley and do something different with the ignition.
Can others chime in here? This doesn't run points, right? So if he went with an MSD, it would be just for the adjustability aspect and there would be very little functional difference from the stock unit with respect to maintenance? Also...does the 1981 use a Q-Jet still? This was the last year before CFI, right?
Last edited by keithinspace; Mar 2, 2016 at 02:50 PM.
I do not see a vac advance can on your hei so is probably the oem computer controlled distributor. You should change to a non computer pre 81 distributor that has the vac advance for optimal performance. Any 75 -80 chevy small block or big block hei unit will work and you can even use you existing cap rotor and coil. Have the distributor recurved by someone with a sun machine. Lars has a lot of distributor tuning info for the hei on posts on this forum.
I do not see a vac advance can on your hei so is probably the oem computer controlled distributor. You should change to a non computer pre 81 distributor that has the vac advance for optimal performance. Any 75 -80 chevy small block or big block hei unit will work and you can even use you existing cap rotor and coil. Have the distributor recurved by someone with a sun machine. Lars has a lot of distributor tuning info for the hei on posts on this forum.
Do you have a suggested distributer that would work for my application? Would this work with the Holly carb, and eliminate the CEL? Ive heard Lars come up a few times.
There are those that are VERY successful at the Dark Arts of stock components. Lars is the resident Jedi Master of the QuadraJet and stock ignition systems.
Personally, I went the route of a nice QuickFuel carb and a MSD 6AL setup. That way you don't need a Sun Machine to recurve and tune the car. I'm $1,600 into my setup and love it, but my engine is pretty extreme. You could produce very similar results with much less money if you choose a little different product.
To be clear: You won't pick up performance through changing the parts, per se. Well tuned stock system vs. well tuned aftermarket system will perform very similarly in an even remotely stock engine.
The primary difference is the ability for 'the common man' to tune the car. I couldn't do crap to curve the old TI system that was on my car. SOMEONE could, but I couldn't. But I can shim, limit, curve, and fiddle with my MSD system to my heart's content.
Last edited by keithinspace; Mar 2, 2016 at 09:30 PM.