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!968 Voltage Regulator Wiring

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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 12:18 PM
  #1  
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Default 1968 Voltage Regulator Wiring

I am replacing my voltage regulator and everything I found has a capacitor grounding on the side of the regulator mount and plugging into the back of the regulator on a spade terminal.

On mine I don't have the capacitor setup (yes the radio does whine), but I do have a plug that connects to it and goes into the harness, so no idea where it goes from there. I think the wire is a tan color, I can get pics posted later tonight.

Also bought the rubber isolators that push into the holes in the inner fender well (someone used nuts and screws). It says I need three isolators, but one of them appears to be a stud bonded to the inner fender well and can't be removed. This looks like a more appropriate place to attach the ground wire but I can't find any accurate picture or article for mounting it.

Is this factory or has someone changed something over the years?

Should I have the plug from the wiring harness AND the capacitor mounted as well?

I have the build CD and some colored diagrams but I think those are for the vacuum hoses, have to check that later as well.

Thanks in advance for any answers or pictures of a 68 setup. I did a search but didn't find what I was looking for.

Sean

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Edits:
Picture attached.

The wire at the top is Brown with a black stripe. That's the one that plugs onto the back of the regulator.

The ground is black with a yellow stripe.

You can see the one stud on the inner fender well by the wiring harness. One hole you can barely see by the brown wire.

It's the assembly manual that I have and the color vacuum diagrams.

Thank you
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Last edited by SMLoftus; Sep 22, 2016 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Added Picture
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Old Sep 21, 2016 | 11:01 PM
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Sean,
I'm not sure I'm the best person to help you but I've struggled through a few of these issues and I feel your pain.

I have no capacitors on my ground and no radio whine...but my radio is well grounded behind the dash.

The ground is "supposed" to go the ground behind the drivers side headlight. Any clean ground should work. Ground is ground.

The isolaters are probably for vibration control. Your inner fender is fiberglass and has no grounding capacity so the nuts and bolts for mounting should be fine minus the vibration control. The mounting studs are simply to make it easier for one person to mount the regulator. I only have one left too.

The dark blue and white wires go to the plug on the alternator. Yours is light blue but mine is dark blue and that is what my wiring diagram shows to be correct.

There should be a heavy gauge wire next to the white. Mine is red, (yours is light brown) that goes to the horn relay and the pos. alternator lug. The brown and white wire goes through the fuse block and terminates at the headlight switch.

I hope that helps. There was a guy named Roger on this forum that could have straightened you out instantly, but he doesn't post here anymore.

Are you going for factory correct or are we trying to make everything work? I got things to work first, then started to work on making things more correct.

Good luck!

Last edited by Kevin68; Sep 21, 2016 at 11:04 PM. Reason: iPad keyboards suck
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Old Sep 22, 2016 | 12:06 AM
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This is the voltage regulator on my 68. Maybe this will be of some help.
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Old Sep 22, 2016 | 08:06 AM
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Cant get to my car now to grab a pic of mine, but this might help you. It''s a coloured wiring diagram for the 68 that a guy on the forum ages ago posted up that I saved the link to.

http://s306.photobucket.com/user/jos...olor2.jpg.html
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Old Sep 22, 2016 | 05:37 PM
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Thanks for all the replies, I got the new regulator in and figured out what the brown and black stripe wire was. It is what feeds the charging gauge in the console, I unplugged it and the gauge stops working. The wiring diagram does not show that wire unfortunately, but the diagram is going to come in handy. I did a little house cleaning and moved the harness to where it should have been in the first place. I made up a Y adapter and plugged both the gauge wire and the capacitor in. It doesn't seem to cause any problems but the wires are easy enough to move/remove if I run into something.

Thank you
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