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Old Oct 12, 2016 | 09:08 PM
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Default Corvette under powered

Not to mechanically inclined, so please remember that. I have a 1982 vette with a 383 stroker, 650 holley carb, 3.73 rear diff, and the original 700R4 automatic trans with 125k on it. My problem is I can't even squeal the tires unless I power brake. I had this same problem with the original 350 engine. So I suspect the trans might be the problem but I can't say that for sure. Please help.

Also, below are the specs on the engine (no I have no dyno data) and I suspect these are optimistic numbers, any thoughts?

CHEV 383 STROKER LONG BLOCK 420HP/430FTLBS

CHEV 420HP/430FTLBS
GM 4-BOLT BLOCK
GM 350 CON RODS W/ARP ROD BOLTS & NUTS
NEW STEEL CRANKSHAFT
SPPED PRO HYPEREUTECTIC PISTONS 9.5 TO 1 COMP
MAHLE PLASMA MOLY PISTON RINGS
CAMSHAFT/SPEED PRO
.480/.480-230/230-110 DEGREES
LIFTERS
PIONEER BRASS FREEZE PLUGS
EFORCE HARMONIC BALANCER
PIONEER FLEX PLATE
MAHLE TRI-METAL 780 “IROC” SERIES BEARINGS
DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING SET
EFORCE GASKET SET
MELLING HV OIL PUMP
GM CAST IRON CYLINDER HEADS
W/1.60/2.02 STAINLESS STEEL SWIRL POLISHED VALVES
SPEED PRO HARDENED PUSH RODS
ENGINETECH NEW HEAD BOLTS

BORE AND HONE BLOCK WITH TORQUE PLATE
DECK ENGINE BLOCK PARALLEL TO MAIN LINE
RE-SIZE CONNECTING RODS WITH ARP BOLTS AND NUTS
HANG AND ALIGN PISTONS
LINE HONE ENGINE BLOCK
FULLY BALANCE ENGINE ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLE LONG BLOCK
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnightoil13
Not to mechanically inclined, so please remember that. I have a 1982 vette with a 383 stroker, 650 holley carb, 3.73 rear diff, and the original 700R4 automatic trans with 125k on it. My problem is I can't even squeal the tires unless I power brake. I had this same problem with the original 350 engine. So I suspect the trans might be the problem but I can't say that for sure. Please help.

Also, below are the specs on the engine (no I have no dyno data) and I suspect these are optimistic numbers, any thoughts?

CHEV 383 STROKER LONG BLOCK 420HP/430FTLBS

CHEV 420HP/430FTLBS
GM 4-BOLT BLOCK
GM 350 CON RODS W/ARP ROD BOLTS & NUTS
NEW STEEL CRANKSHAFT
SPPED PRO HYPEREUTECTIC PISTONS 9.5 TO 1 COMP
MAHLE PLASMA MOLY PISTON RINGS
CAMSHAFT/SPEED PRO
.480/.480-230/230-110 DEGREES
LIFTERS
PIONEER BRASS FREEZE PLUGS
EFORCE HARMONIC BALANCER
PIONEER FLEX PLATE
MAHLE TRI-METAL 780 “IROC” SERIES BEARINGS
DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING SET
EFORCE GASKET SET
MELLING HV OIL PUMP
GM CAST IRON CYLINDER HEADS
W/1.60/2.02 STAINLESS STEEL SWIRL POLISHED VALVES
SPEED PRO HARDENED PUSH RODS
ENGINETECH NEW HEAD BOLTS

BORE AND HONE BLOCK WITH TORQUE PLATE
DECK ENGINE BLOCK PARALLEL TO MAIN LINE
RE-SIZE CONNECTING RODS WITH ARP BOLTS AND NUTS
HANG AND ALIGN PISTONS
LINE HONE ENGINE BLOCK
FULLY BALANCE ENGINE ASSEMBLY
ASSEMBLE LONG BLOCK


Interesting: few questions

Intake manifold being used?
Does it bog when you hit the gas?
Or does it sound like it's revving up but not going any where?
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 10:50 AM
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Get a new tranny & or smaller tires.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 11:02 AM
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Even my old 350/300 chirps the tires hitting second. With a 3.08 gear! I assume you don't have 125k on the stroker but even if you did you should be traction limited with a 225 ish tire.

How much tire DO you have? Are you getting fuel to the Holley? Are your secondaries opening? What kind of timing are you running? I'd also be curious how much vacuum you have at idle- probably not a lot with that cam, but some.

Assuming for a moment that compression is ok, you have a fuel issue or an ignition issue- almost certainly.

You list a lot of "static" facts about your engines build but you could easily be way out of tune. If you are truly not mechanically inclined- which is ok- take it somewhere reputable and have them look it over.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 01:56 PM
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OK. So I found some paperwork from the guy that replaced the Cross Fire with the Holley carb. So a Holley 650 double pumper carb, Brodix HP1 intake manifold, Billet HEI distributor. Since I moved from Wyoming to Louisiana it takes a while to get the car started. Lots of gas and then have to keep it rev'ed for a while before she will stay running. I know it needs adjustment and again not super mechanically inclined so that will be an adventure. Tires are 255/60/15's. I will assume original trans and torque converter.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnightoil13
OK. So I found some paperwork from the guy that replaced the Cross Fire with the Holley carb. So a Holley 650 double pumper carb, Brodix HP1 intake manifold, Billet HEI distributor. Since I moved from Wyoming to Louisiana it takes a while to get the car started. Lots of gas and then have to keep it rev'ed for a while before she will stay running. I know it needs adjustment and again not super mechanically inclined so that will be an adventure. Tires are 255/60/15's. I will assume original trans and torque converter.
these are all fine parts, but if it isn't tuned for fuel and spark you won't get the performance you're looking for. I think you want us to tell you there is a bad part, but I'm afraid you still need someone knowledgeable at the car to tell you if it's in tune. Will a built 383 overcome a 255 tire- yes- but that's a lot of tire.

Does the car "feel" fast?

Do you know the engine you have is in fact a 383 built as you were told. It would seem unlikely anyone would build a 383 and plan to run the old crossfire setup even for a little while. Could you have an old smog motor someone has simply bolted a carb to? As for the hard starts, do you have a working choke of any kind?

I know now you want answers and I want to see you get them.

Do do you know the throttle linkage is appropriate for the new setup? My 69 I brought home last week ran like a pig because someone bolted a rebuilt quadrajet onto it and didn't bother to set the linkage up with any travel,among other tuning deficiencies.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 04:55 PM
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So found a youtube video to do a tune on the carb and a few adjustments I got it to let loose a little better. But it gets pretty hot and I suspect vapor lock cause after about 30 minutes it died and wouldn't even kick over. Wait about 15 minutes and it'll start again. But this time it was running rough. Talked with a local performance shop but it will be a month before they can look. So I guess I'll wait till then. I do appreciate the help. I'll update the post when I get some answers. So maybe the next person can get some answers.
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 05:20 PM
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I had a similar issue after I had my engine rebuilt and determined I was running too lean. I bought at Wideband O2 sensor and that allowed me re-jet the carb which made a world of difference. It really brought the car to life!
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Old Oct 13, 2016 | 06:04 PM
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Did the previous owner change the stall on the TC with the engine upgrade?
If not, you've got a cam whose power band is starting FAR above where the stall on the torque converter is loading the engine to get the car moving.

A 383 using a 700R4 with a 3.73 rearend should be a tire smoking beast.

Last edited by Fast81; Oct 13, 2016 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Midnightoil13
OK. So I found some paperwork from the guy that replaced the Cross Fire with the Holley carb. So a Holley 650 double pumper carb, Brodix HP1 intake manifold, Billet HEI distributor. Since I moved from Wyoming to Louisiana it takes a while to get the car started. Lots of gas and then have to keep it rev'ed for a while before she will stay running. I know it needs adjustment and again not super mechanically inclined so that will be an adventure. Tires are 255/60/15's. I will assume original trans and torque converter.
It sounds like your on the right track in getting the car to a shop and have a pro check it out. I was a hot-rodder in Wyoming and with the elevation being at 5 to 6000 for the whole state the tune on the engine is not going to work at sea level. You might check a local corvette club for members that might have references to a good mechanic
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 11:09 AM
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As others have stated the obvious, the big one I see is the elevation change from Wyoming to LA. I took my car from sea level to 6000 feet elevation and it ran like cacka. Find a dyno tuner who knows what he is doing and its the best money you will spend on it. Plus he well write down all the settings that make it run perfect so you can do it yourself next time.
Or another problem could be and I hope not, but are you sure what your bought is what is listed? I bought a motor that had a bunch of stuff listed that was done to it and the owner swore up and down it made monster hp. Took it for a break in on an engine stand and found out it was a basic truck motor. Got a refund on it, but I was still out the break in bill on that motor. Good luck and that motor should make monster hp.
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 07:48 PM
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You are running really lean. Big difference from 5000 to sea level. Find a good local carb guy.

I went from a stock setup in my edelbrock 1406 to a little bit richer jets and rods and it was still dead.off the line. I changed to the stock 1405 setup and it was a HUGE difference. Lots of pep just above 1000 rpm now. I need to play with it more. Yours will be an animal once you get it tuned to sea level
Good luck

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Oct 16, 2016 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
You are running really lean. Big difference from 5000 to sea level. Find a good local carb guy.

I went from a stock setup in my edelbrock 1406 to a little bit richer jets and rods and it was still dead.off the line. I changed to the stock 1405 setup and it was a HUGE difference. Lots of pep just above 1000 rpm now. I need to play with it more. Yours will be an animal once you get it tuned to sea level
Good luck
I agree......I believe an out of the box 650 DP will be lean on a 430 horse 383......you may find yourself going up 6-8 jet sizes.
Check and make sure timing is correct per manufacture and that a nice curve has been utilized.

Jebby
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