Ok I have fuel in my tank and the gauge says E. I unplugged the harness from the sender and it goes to F. I ground the tan OHM wire and nothing. I'm going to retry to ground it again but if it doesn't go to E what are my options? This is in my 82'

 

With the key on.. if you remove the sending ohms wire the gauge should peg full.. If you ground this same wire the gauge should go to empty. If it doesn't work this way you either have a broke wire between the sender and the dash unit, you have a defective dash unit or you have an issue with the flexible pcb on the back of the gauge cluster.

The issue is figuring out which one is the problem.

So if you remove the ohms wire and it goes to full.. and you ground it and it doesn't move.. then I'd pull the center cluster and start testing. To pull the center cluster go to this link and start at the bottom of page 3.. it'll tell you how to remove.

http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...stallation.pdf

Once you have the cluster out it's easy to test the gauge by applying power and ground to the gauge post and then either grounding to get the grounded reading or not grounding the ohms wire to get the full reading..

This is the same for all cars 1965-1982.

This is the same for all gauges 1965-1982.


Here is a free testing manual.. Every scenario is covered in this manual so read it and you'll find your issue. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-unit-testing/

Willcox

 

Your link doesn't show anything just shows the Wild of picture and a few links.

 

I also have a question about the temp gauge. When I ground out the wire at the sender it goes to hot but spazzs out first then goes to hot it's not a clean jump. Then I ground out the bottom post on the back of the sender and same thing happened. Does that mean it's the sensor??

 

Ok here's what I did. I use some gator clips to get a better connection for ground. The temp gauge smoothly goes to hot when grounded at the back of the gauge. And the fuel gauge does the same when the harness is disconnected from the tank. Went from empty to full. Then grounded and then went back to empty with harness still connected and grounded out at the back of the gauge. What does that say about my two gauges?

 

This link takes you to our tech page article on the fuel gauge testing, just click on supporting document when you get there. Its in pdf format.


http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/1...-unit-testing/

 

[QUOTE=antoniov1;1593281887Then I ground out the bottom post on the back of the sender and same thing happened.[/QUOTE]

Do you mean on the back of the gauge? If so you are doing one in the same, grounding the ohms input wire at the sender is no different than grounding the ohms input at the gauge and will give you the same result.
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...resistor-77-82



A fuel gauge will go to empty when grounded and the full when left open (wire off at the sender). If you gauge functions in this manner then it is working fine. I would next go to the sender and see what kind of ohms it putting out. If you get an open ohms reading then I'd check the grounds at the sending unit, test again and if still no reading I'd replace the sender.

A temperature gauge will go to hot when grounded, and then to cool when left open (wire off the sender). If your gauge functions in this manner then it is working fine. I'd go to the sender and see if it's putting out any ohms. If no ohms output is present I'd replace the sender and while I had the temperature gauge out I would also install a new adjustable resistor. New senders will not read correctly with your gauge but if you change the resistor on the back to an adjustable one you can dial the gauge in to be accurate with the new sender.

Here is a direct upload link to the pdf on the fuel gauge.
http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...it-testing.pdf

 

Here's a pic of my temperature gauge when I ground out the ohm post.. I'm guessing my resistor is out? According to the help links you sent me?

 

Here are the different readings you'll get on a temperature gauge. While it's not your gauge all of them from 68-82 respond the same way. As you can see below the missing ground or a defective resistor will both give you the same reading so you can't just go buy that.

A missing ground is more likely than a blown resistor... so you probably need to pull the cluster out and check the printed circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster housing...

 

Hmm dang y'all are some good help lol. Can you send me a pic of what it would look like with the proper ground connected? If I'm not mistaking I do have a nut on the ohm post that connects to the back of the gauge. Left hand side.