I originally responded to another post with this one, but thought I should put it here. I've made a few modifications as well.

I'm new and am trying to learn all I can before possibly buying a C3. Until I convince the wifey to let me get one, I can at least have fun learning all about them.

I'm not a total noob, but close! I have a 914 I'm having fun learning how to fix, but it's a completely different car. I also have done minor work (tuneups oils changes, transmission fluid change) on my 2011 chevy truck. I'm not afraid to try new things and youtube and forums like these have been a huge help.

1. I've read the post about what to look for, this one and a few others. Is there anything else people who want to buy need to know? Other posts I should read?

2. I'd like to take someone with me, or have a pre-purchase inspection done. Is there anyone in SoCal (northern LA area) who does this?

3. This car came up on craiglist: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/an...818162886.html
If that doesn't work: I typed c3 corvette into the search bar. It's the red one in the Antelope Valley.
Any thoughts on what to look for? The seller states the birdcage is solid. He's selling it because he's moving. Seems motivated.

4. Where are good places to buy parts?

5. What typically needs replacing/repairing on the C3?

6. I'm looking for a car I can drive for fun, not some show car or race car. It doesn't have to be totally stock, either. I'd rather not bother with smog, so I prefer 75 or before. I want a stick, NOT an automatic. Don't want a convertible. I can do very minor paint and body work, but not welding.

Thanks for any help and advice.

 

Lots of info on this forum about C3's. Get a 1968-1972 (dual chrome bumper car) if you want an investment. Some believe a 1973 (single chrome bumper car) is a good investment. Buy a 1974-1982 if you want a cheap C3 to mod and don't care about investment. Reference the Corvette Black Book for information pertaining to each year and the options available. Triple check the frame, windshield frame/birdcage for rust. No matter what C3 you buy, expect to have to spend at-least $1000 per year on repairs/parts.

Search for local Corvette clubs and send an officer an email.

Link does not work.

Your GM dealer, an authorized AC Delco retailer, Amazon.com, ebay, Corvette America, Paragon, Corvette Central, to name a few, Auto Zone, Advance Auto, to name a few.

Everything. If it's been sitting for awhile it will likely have engine oil leaks, power steering leaks, and transmission fluid leaks. Weather strips and suspension/body bushings, tune-up items, ck for radiator condition, etc...

I'd recommend a 1974-1981 as the most economical option. Sticks are hard to find in the late 1970's as they made very few. Any of those years can be made a lot of fun to drive. Remove the smog and emissions components, replace the heads and install a nice cam. Being a small block Chevy, there are endless performance options and because of the age you don't have to worry about retaining the emissions components.

 

Get a 75 or older like you said no smog hassles
What part of LA?
74-5 usually pretty cheap dont fall for the "rare collector" line either they arent. Fortunately they are exempt which is a plus
Its an old car anything can go wrong but if you can work on a porsche you can definielty work with a small block chevy. Dirt cheap to repair esp if you dont care about keeping it stock..rest of the car not so much
When someone says "solid" usually means rust just not too many holes so be wary especially on CL. I have to laugh at how many ads say rust free you see the pics....and rust everywhere.
Take someone with you that knows these cars and the problems areas they arent always obvious

CL link is no good btw.

 

The OP probably is aware of this, but buying a C3 newer than 75 is not a good idea in California because cars older than that are exempt from smog laws. Cars built after 75 must pass smog inspection. The good news is that California cars tend to have less or no rust because of the climate.

 

My opinion 73 is the most economical way to enter the chrome bumper scene even though it only has rear chrome. I think they don't command the big price tags.
If I could have afforded it I would be driving a 68 to 72.
68 to 73 have the most attractive rear ends IMO, maybe it's a guy thing.

 

only reason I bought a 73..cheap way into the chrome bumper thing
man did I have a hard time selling it may as well have been an 84 seriously. NOBODY wanted that front rubber bumper...I couldnt see it so didnt bother me lol
Guy that bought it could care less about # matching .....few months later had a stout motor/700r paint and ran the pee out of it an got a LOT more for it come sale time. That was the LAST car I gave thought to the whole original stock thing what a waste it was didnt net me one penny more but kinda knew that going in from working in Vette resto shops;that was way back in the 80s too know they have come up some but not that much.
Wish I fit in them better go back and forth about getting another one

 

You mention 75 or older, 75's come with a single exhaust system and a CAT.
If you stick with a 74 or older, they have true dual exhaust and no CATs. 74 was also the last year for a big block.

 

n8dogg mentioned spending $1,000 per year in repairs.....that seems to be a reasonable average......OR.....you could go through the car when you buy it and repair everything within the 1st six months-1st year----then have only minor fixes to make from then on.

Typically....if you have the car inspected beforehand....and spend the money "up-front" on a finished/reliable car.....your yearly maintenance will be only a hundred/two hundred dollars. I have spent no maintenance costs on my project (but I went through every component on the car after buying it.......a basketcase I wanted to revive).

IMO.

Whichever route you take......have FUN with the car!

 

The important thing about 75 and back is that he lives in California. That means you can mod the exhaust and not have to keep it stock.

 

Exactly, but with a 74 that's one less thing that will need moded right out of the box.

 

Thanks for all the info! I fixed the link, I hope it works now. I'm just looking for a fun car, not an investment. I like the chrome bumpers, but the other ones look cool too. I'm going to stay away from post 75 cars due to smog requirements. I guess I'd be okay with one that needed smogging if I knew it would pass.

 

I fixed the link.
I'm in Santa Clarita.
So the body and interior components are expensive, huh? What if I just want something nice, but not stock? I'm fine with after-market stuff.
I have a 914! I know all about rust!

 

Do you know if the 76 and up C3 will even pass smog? I'm concerned it won't, then I'm stuck trying to find replacement smog control parts.

 

How much should I expect to pay upfront for a decent car? I figure I'm going to spend money on it anyway and I want to at least have fun fixing it and picking out parts, putting them on, getting them to work, and all that. I'm looking for a straight, rust free (as rust-free as I can realistically get anyway) car I can drive while I'm working on it.

 

I thought I replied to this, so sorry if this duplicates.
I'm in Valencia. Are we neighbors? Send me a PM!
So the engine is easy and cheap to fix, but the rest of the car isn't? I'm fine with non-stock parts for the interior and all that. I don't care much about how original it is, just that it's nice enough to ride in. I'm fine with after-market components for seats, upholstery, door panels, etc.

 

I am not an expert and I now live in Texas, but I believe if it is stock and everything works, it should pass inspection. It might be different in different counties as well, but I am not sure. I lived in Bakersfield and the pollution was very bad there so they were pretty strict.

 

I would definitely look at that 73. It is no where near stock, but it is tastefully modded and from what you describe it looks like a good match.

Mainly check for rust on the frame and bird cage. You might try offering a little lower price, but it looks reasonable at 14 grand considering the work that he has in it.

Remember a cheap Vette may cost more in the long run.

 

If you can afford it get a chrome bumper car. A nice 80 is worth around 12k all day. No matter how much you put into it it will still be worth 12k.
A chrome bumper car will hold it's value and I don't think you will lose money unless you put a ton into it.

I just got rid of my 80. I paid 12k for it put another 12 k into it. Nobody is going to give me 24 k for an 80. At least with a chrome bumper car you have a chance of gettint close to the value back.

 

I think Phoenix is a good market to look for C3's--although my last one was a 73 out of Dana Point - -second owner with thirty years of records on the car. Arizona can be tough on paint and upholstery, but the dry climate favors older cars.

Check out the Phoenix Craig's list - - I'll be glad to check it out or scoop you up at the airport when you come to drive it home - - or have a shipper for about $300 . .