Hi, I recently bought a 1974 C3 for my son that he and I are going to restore together. We are going to do a very mild/subtle resto-mod on the car and I just ordered the Year One 17X8 rally wheels. I'm going to call them in the morning to see if they can put a hold on the order until I get to hopefully hear from some of you on the site. I have read some of the threads where a few other members have these and it sounds like they will fit and work great. HOWEVER, I have a few questions:

1. Can I use a 17X9 with a 5 inch backset?
2. If it would potentially rub, can I use a 1/2 inch spacer to give it the proper clearance?
3. I will stick with the 17X8 in the front, does anyone think it would rub? If so, would a 1/4 inch spacer correct that problem?

Year one has a "staggered package" that includes two 17X8 and two 17X9, lugs and center derby caps (which they have a short and a tall version of the original).

I would greatly appreciate any help or information anyone might have.

My son is 14 and has loved corvettes basically since he could see , we can't wait to get going on this.

Thank you

 

Hopefully it's OK if "park" here. I am also interested in the Year One wheels.

Another option is a wheel from JD Wheels - do you know them?

 

This wheel from "REV wheels"

I did some business with the place where these wheels are sold, and the owner seems to know his stuff. PM me if you want more details...


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...light=vetfever

 

I enjoy the original alum factory wheels that Gm offered, don't need anything else. IMO

 

I'm using the Year One 17" Rally wheels 17x8 4.5 BS. I'm using a 1/2" spacer. No issues, wheels work great.

Can't help you with the fitment of the 17x9

 

Hi Barry

Couple of questions:

1 - Is that a trim ring, or the polished edge of the Year One wheel?? If it's a trim ring, are they from Year One? Plastic or metal?
2 - And - Is that a Year One center cap, or an original GM cap? If it's a Year One, is it plastic or metal?

(OK maybe more than one question) Thanks

 

Hi Barry thanks for the reply. So I will need 1/2 spacers?

Can you tell me what size tires you have?

I have the mgr of discount tire recommending a 235/50

 

Couple of answers:
1 - Not a trim ring, it's part of the wheel, and the wheel is one piece aluminum.
2 - The center cap is from Year One, it's plastic. Year One does not recommend using a stock metal cap. I tried one of my original caps and I think it would destroy the aluminum cap retaining "bumps" on the wheel.
Year one caps do not have lettering. I had lettering decals made.

 

You shouldn't need spacers, others on the forum have the wheels installed without spacers and report they work fine.
I used spacers so the wheel stance/look would be the same as the original rally wheels. However I doubt anyone would know the difference. It's just that I would know.
Also, with spacers I installed new ARP longer studs. A bit of a pain on the rear axles. Hard to "fish" the longer studs in from the rear.

I have 245/50 Michelins and would definitely not go any smaller.
I believe they are about 26.6 inches. I think the later vettes (75-81) had larger tires than that.

Note, with the 17" wheels/Michelin tires, the improvement in handling was incredible. Didn't really feel any harsher ride with the reduced side wall height.

 

Thanks again for the info.

So without the spacers, do the wheels sit further in under the lip of the fenderwell? I'm trying to bring the tires slightly out, closer to the edge of the fenderwell lip.

 

Without the spacers, the Year One wheels sit 1/2" inward than the stock steel rally wheels. (1/2" further in under the lip)

A friend with a '74 is using a 3/4" spacer with the Year One wheels. This pushes the Year One wheels 1/4" closer to the lip of the fender well than the stock steel rally wheels.
He is also using the long ARP studs.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...7701/overview/

 

Great info Barry. Thanks.

 

Ok I'm going to order the studs from your link now, thank you again for all of the help. The rims arrived today and they are really a beautiful wheel.

Would you happen to have a recommendation for the spacers? I think I want to try the 3/4 inch to kick the wheels out.

Also, do you think there would be any issues with running a 255? I'm wondering what sidewall to use, a 50 or 55? Just wondering your thoughts.

 

Nothing is ever simple..... The wheel studs in the link was the nearest fit I could find. They are "slightly" larger in the knurl area than the stock Vette wheel stud. You may be able to press them into the flange, however they seemed very tight.
So, I slightly enlarged the holes in the flange using a 15/32" drill bit. Then the new studs still pressed in firmly, but easier.
If you do use a 15/32" drill to enlarge the hole, be very sure you drill them straight. I made a jig.


For the spacers, I used a good quality Billet Aluminum one. There are lots of brands available. Here is the one I used.
Performance World wheel spacers (50500)
http://www.performance-world.com/Bil...ers-s/1877.htm

If you will be using a 3/4" spacer, I would think a 255/50 tire would work fine without any rub issues. With the 1/2" spacers and 245/50 on mine I have no clearance/rub issues at all.
I prefer the "50" series tire, depends on the look you like.

A 255/55 might be getting a bit "tall", you should check the diameter of your choice of tire and compare to what you have now to be sure you have enough room.

My previous tires were 245/60-15, and I had a slight left tire rub when steering was full left. Made a shiny spot on the frame, no bind, just touching.
I don't get this with the Year One wheels. The "rub" was one of the reasons I went with the 1/2" spacers. Without the spacers I had a concern about a potential bind on the left front.

 

Forgot to mention about the wheel nuts. The ones that Year One supply and like the stock nuts. However, since the holes in the Year One wheels are deeply recessed, you can only get a socket on about 1/2 of the nut, plus the tapered surface area is somewhat small.

I'm using these nuts, which are much, much better. (Taller/larger taper area)
http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemde...SEName=711-106
Rock Auto had the best price then.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=711-106
If I remember correctly, 711-106 is for a "set of 4 nuts".

 

What a lot of great info Barry - and i just noticed you are a fellow Canuck from lovely Halifax

 

Another question.

Is it viable to just use nuts that have a longer barrel when using a spacer rather than installing longer studs??

Seems like a much simpler (as in less work) solution??

 

Yes, that would be a simpler approach.
However, here are my reasons for using the ARP studs.
- My stock studs were 45 years old. (Good condition, still 45 years old)
- Aluminum wheels require a higher torque than steel wheels. Year One recommends 95 Ft. Lbs. (I Didn't trust the original studs at that torque)

Interesting note, on Jegs web site for "non" ARP studs.
Quote: " Not recommended for use with wheel spacers".

ARP wheel studs are rated at over 200,000 PSI. Not sure of the rating for the stock studs.

 

Steve

Please post pictures of your car once you have these on. Love to see them.

 

Yes I will definitely post pics when I get this figured out

- so I have a "test" tire on the wheel and on the car. It's a 235/55 and it looks a bit small in the hole. We are simply checking to see if we have a clearance issue with steering and without spacers we do not but again, looks small and very tucked up under the lip of the fenderwell.

- the tire guy who is helping me (from discount tire and actually came to my house to help try to figure this out) is worried that a 255 will rub the edges of the fenderwell. He ordered a test tire so we will see.

- I think there is no doubt I will have to change the studs. There is literally no stud left after we installed the new rim. With a 1/2 inch spacer i don't know if a longer barrel lug nut would work. I'm putting my son in this car so I need it to be safe and right..

- Barry I want to thank you for taking the time to answer posts and for all of your help, you've truly been incredible.

- do you think it is possible to find longer studs that are an exact fit? I'm not sure I have the ability to build a jig like what you have to properly drill them for a slightly larger stud.