Brake booster adjustment?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 633
From: perth western australia
Lol I wish... Just finished up bleeding the system and the pedal goes to the floor. It's firm but to the floor. And just to see started the car put in D and slowly let up on the brake. Now I said slowly so the half shafts barely turned over but anyway as soon as I started to let up they were turning. This is exactly how the poem m/c acted too.
I looked under the dash which is almost impossible and don't see or feel any adjustment. Also though however the pedal doesn't feel firm when it's not running so either I still have air in the system or it's the booster??? Ever since I replaced the booster I've had non stop problems with the brakes. So what's my options now?
I looked under the dash which is almost impossible and don't see or feel any adjustment. Also though however the pedal doesn't feel firm when it's not running so either I still have air in the system or it's the booster??? Ever since I replaced the booster I've had non stop problems with the brakes. So what's my options now?
if your rod length is still too short you will have trouble getting a good bleed ,unless you go with a gravity bleed or one of those pressure bleeder pots .
the symptoms you are describing fit both air in system and rod length too short . If it were mine I would be measuring as asked before and see what numbers you come up with.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
on the end of the threaded rod that comes out the back of the booster is a screw on piece , that piece is a y shape and goes over your brake pedal arm with a pin securing it together , to adjust it you must undo it from the brake pedal and wind it in or out to lengthen or shorten the rod throw. that's your adjustment .(with a lock nut to nip up against that y piece to stop it undoing by itself )
Where the rod enters the booster there is a rubber boot so is it threaded beyond that and is why I don't see a threaded part? Just making sure.
Another thing is I went to Wilwood's site to double check bleeding procedure for there calipers and they have bled by gravity so just curious I opened a bleeder screw one at a time on each caliper and got nothing out of it??? Really scratching my head now. Unless it takes hours to do I just did it for a couple minutes but would think that would be long enough...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
without the motor running you have no assist so the pedal should be firm .
if your rod length is still too short you will have trouble getting a good bleed ,unless you go with a gravity bleed or one of those pressure bleeder pots .
the symptoms you are describing fit both air in system and rod length too short . If it were mine I would be measuring as asked before and see what numbers you come up with.
if your rod length is still too short you will have trouble getting a good bleed ,unless you go with a gravity bleed or one of those pressure bleeder pots .
the symptoms you are describing fit both air in system and rod length too short . If it were mine I would be measuring as asked before and see what numbers you come up with.
I did bleed the system with a bleeder pot and removed roughly a bottle size of fluid out from the four calipers.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
I removed the booster b/c I couldn't see crap underneath and there is no adjustment whats so ever! All that work for nothing... Not sure on what to do now?? I was able to pull back on the pedal about an inch when I was removing the booster nuts so I thought good it's out of adjustment but nope...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 633
From: perth western australia
as for 1 inch to 1 1/4 rod extending when you put your foot on the pedal ,forget about that ,its where the rod end sits in relation to the join face at rest is what you need to measure .
by looking at your pic it looks to sit lower than the join face, put a small straight edge across the hole and measure down from the edge to the top of the rod . Just say it is one quarter of an inch lower .
Now measure the same join face on the master to the piston where that rod will push against , it should be just short of one quarter inch RAISED , so when you bolt them together the rod is close but not touching the piston
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 633
From: perth western australia
ok thats out of my 69 , the rod is in as far as possible and you can see how far it sticks out compared to yours , last pic is the weld mark after adding more rod to make it work, car ran fine
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 15
I measured both and it's right on the money. Since everything was back off I decided to re-bleed the new Wilwood m/c and sure enough it still had air in it. So I took my time to bleed it throughly and now tonight I will start reassembly. But before the dash goes in I will make sure my brakes are solid....
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3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
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Mine is the same no adjustment rod just the black cylinder coming out of the booster. Brakes are soft and do not lock up. Pedal almost to the floor before stopping
Last edited by Frank Alonge; Apr 29, 2020 at 10:14 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Joined: Mar 2022
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From: Stroudsburg Pa
