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Corvette L82 won't start

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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 02:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Revi
A truck carb, but you can see where the vacuum to the secondaries connect.
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumbe...umber=17059201

If you haven't pulled the spark plugs yet, you can check the timing and see if it's set correctly. Do you know how to check timing? Own a timing light?


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A few other things, I would remove the hose with the red arrow and cap this at the source with a screw in the end it is likely leaking or could easily leak in the future.
The capped port (yellow arrow) should be connected to your carb and AIR. The AIR system may have been removed, the lower port should go to the EFE system. If this has been removed then don't worry about this bit at all.
Overall there seems to be a few hoses routed to the wrong place. These should be checked and corrected; incorrect routing can cause all sorts of problems (I know from my own experience)

There should be a stamp pad in front of the passenger head, (blue arrow) It would be interesting to see what the numbers are. (this will tell us about the engines original configuration)

As for the spark, I would check with a known good lead what the spark is like.
do you have any idea as to when the leads, cap and rotor were last replaced?
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 03:27 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Revi
A truck carb, but you can see where the vacuum to the secondaries connect.
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumbe...umber=17059201

If you haven't pulled the spark plugs yet, you can check the timing and see if it's set correctly. Do you know how to check timing? Own a timing light?
Hello,
Yes I have had the opportunity to check the timing before, only now I live in France and I don't have a timing light anymore. I'll have to order one on the net.
As for the spark plugs, they're not out yet I lost half of my fingers trying to see how to get to them ). Is there any way to check the timing without a light (while I wait to get one).
Thanks
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 03:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Antz81


Attachment 48069336
A few other things, I would remove the hose with the red arrow and cap this at the source with a screw in the end it is likely leaking or could easily leak in the future.
The capped port (yellow arrow) should be connected to your carb and AIR. The AIR system may have been removed, the lower port should go to the EFE system. If this has been removed then don't worry about this bit at all.
Overall there seems to be a few hoses routed to the wrong place. These should be checked and corrected; incorrect routing can cause all sorts of problems (I know from my own experience)

There should be a stamp pad in front of the passenger head, (blue arrow) It would be interesting to see what the numbers are. (this will tell us about the engines original configuration)

As for the spark, I would check with a known good lead what the spark is like.
do you have any idea as to when the leads, cap and rotor were last replaced?
Thanks for all these information,

From what I've been told the distributor leads and spark plugs have been changed last year (but then again can I trust the seller when the buyer lives half way across the world from him ). I will check all the hoses and see where they go (or should go). I'll take a picture of the stamp pad and post it.
Other thing, when I received the car there was a box with the smog pump in it (and a couple of tubing). Not sure what a smog pump is and what it does.
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 03:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by AGG50
Thanks for all these information,

From what I've been told the distributor leads and spark plugs have been changed last year (but then again can I trust the seller when the buyer lives half way across the world from him ). I will check all the hoses and see where they go (or should go). I'll take a picture of the stamp pad and post it.
Other thing, when I received the car there was a box with the smog pump in it (and a couple of tubing). Not sure what a smog pump is and what it does.
The smog pump is the pump for the AIR system. The tubes would connected onto the exhaust and blow air into the exhaust to help with emissions. Unless you are required to have it then there is no harm in leaving it off. If this has been removed it is likely that the EFE has been also.
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rky Mtn C6
Another cause could be evaporation of fuel in the carb due to ethanol. Fuel pump has to pump fuel to replace the evaporated fuel before it will fire.
Hello and thanks for your reply.
I make sure every time I go to the gas station to put gas without Ethanol in it. And around here it gets harder to find ethanol free gas ()
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Old Mar 4, 2017 | 04:58 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Antz81
The smog pump is the pump for the AIR system. The tubes would connected onto the exhaust and blow air into the exhaust to help with emissions. Unless you are required to have it then there is no harm in leaving it off. If this has been removed it is likely that the EFE has been also.
Hello me again,

When you said to check the stamp on the passenger side head, do you mean the VIN number ?
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 09:54 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Antz81


Attachment 48069336
A few other things, I would remove the hose with the red arrow and cap this at the source with a screw in the end it is likely leaking or could easily leak in the future.
The capped port (yellow arrow) should be connected to your carb and AIR. The AIR system may have been removed, the lower port should go to the EFE system. If this has been removed then don't worry about this bit at all.
Overall there seems to be a few hoses routed to the wrong place. These should be checked and corrected; incorrect routing can cause all sorts of problems (I know from my own experience)

There should be a stamp pad in front of the passenger head, (blue arrow) It would be interesting to see what the numbers are. (this will tell us about the engines original configuration)

As for the spark, I would check with a known good lead what the spark is like.
do you have any idea as to when the leads, cap and rotor were last replaced?
Hello,
You will find below 2 new pictures of the engine with the actual vacuum hoses connected to where I suppose they should go to. The hose not connected on the picture (the red arrow one in your picture) goes to the air filter assembly, I removed it to take the picture ).
The last picture is the VIN number on the passenger side head (matching number with the car).
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 10:00 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Antz81


Attachment 48069336
A few other things, I would remove the hose with the red arrow and cap this at the source with a screw in the end it is likely leaking or could easily leak in the future.
The capped port (yellow arrow) should be connected to your carb and AIR. The AIR system may have been removed, the lower port should go to the EFE system. If this has been removed then don't worry about this bit at all.
Overall there seems to be a few hoses routed to the wrong place. These should be checked and corrected; incorrect routing can cause all sorts of problems (I know from my own experience)

There should be a stamp pad in front of the passenger head, (blue arrow) It would be interesting to see what the numbers are. (this will tell us about the engines original configuration)

As for the spark, I would check with a known good lead what the spark is like.
do you have any idea as to when the leads, cap and rotor were last replaced?
Hello,
You will find below 2 new pictures of the engine with the actual vacuum hoses connected to where I suppose they should go to. The hose not connected on the picture (the red arrow one in your picture) goes to the air filter assembly, I removed it to take the picture ).
The last picture is the VIN number on the passenger side head (matching number with the car).
Attached Images    
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 11:40 PM
  #29  
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Any progress?

There is some good news with what the engine stamp pad says, it was a l82 with manual transmission, it looks like only the carb has been changed.
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 02:13 PM
  #30  
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You've said that the car will start sometimes and not others. When it won't start what is happening? Based on what I'm reading I think you're saying it turns over but there is no spark so it doesn't start.

If this is what's happening then I'd be looking at the wiring going to the distributer making sure it is well connected and in good shape as well as the wiring under the cap. There is a connector that plugs up into the cap on the drivers side. Under a cover on top of this connector there are wires that connect into the coil and other sensors. Make sure they are not loose or broken. The coil (mounted in the cap as others have mentioned) could be faulty.
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Old Mar 12, 2017 | 11:10 AM
  #31  
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Hello everyone,
I finally bought a timing light (sure makes checking timing easier ).
I joined a picture of the timing mark (timing gun in one hand camera in the other ). It looks OK to me but not sure I'm reading the position correctly, I'll have to check the maintenance manuals I just bought.
As for starting the car today I had some problems (again) but by doing some great mechanical work (I used the handle of a screw driver to tap on the distributor) the car started right away. Any idea why taping the distributor would help start the car or is it just luck.
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 08:20 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by AGG50
Hello everyone,
I finally bought a timing light (sure makes checking timing easier ).
I joined a picture of the timing mark (timing gun in one hand camera in the other ). It looks OK to me but not sure I'm reading the position correctly, I'll have to check the maintenance manuals I just bought.
As for starting the car today I had some problems (again) but by doing some great mechanical work (I used the handle of a screw driver to tap on the distributor) the car started right away. Any idea why taping the distributor would help start the car or is it just luck.
Check all the 12 volt wiring going into the distributor and the wiring within the distributor for loose or broken connections as I mentioned. Sounds like your problem could be there. Or the module which is inside the distributor (replaces points and triggers the spark) or the coil but check the wires first.
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 04:16 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by gdm78vette
Check all the 12 volt wiring going into the distributor and the wiring within the distributor for loose or broken connections as I mentioned. Sounds like your problem could be there. Or the module which is inside the distributor (replaces points and triggers the spark) or the coil but check the wires first.
Hello,
Thanks for your suggestions and I think I found the problem (I hope).
I joined a few pictures of the wiring problem (rust inside the spark plug wire on the distributor side). Can this explain the hard start (cold engine) ? Where can all this rust come from?
I'll let you know if the problem of starting the car has gone. By the way I ordered a new set of spark plug wires.
Thanks again.
Pic n°1: wire going to the choke (before I changed it),
Pic n°2: rust inside spark plug wire cylinder 1 (distributor side),
Pic n°2: spark plug wire cylinder 2 (has no rust in it),
Pic n°3: distributor cap with n°1 and 2 connectors (n°1 after I cleaned some of the rust on it, not as shiny as n°2),
Pic n°4: inside distributor cap (I cleaned all the contacts but they were fine).
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