Corvette L82 won't start
03-04-2017, 02:18 PM
#21
A truck carb, but you can see where the vacuum to the secondaries connect.
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumbe...umber=17059201
If you haven't pulled the spark plugs yet, you can check the timing and see if it's set correctly. Do you know how to check timing? Own a timing light?
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumbe...umber=17059201
If you haven't pulled the spark plugs yet, you can check the timing and see if it's set correctly. Do you know how to check timing? Own a timing light?
A few other things, I would remove the hose with the red arrow and cap this at the source with a screw in the end it is likely leaking or could easily leak in the future.
The capped port (yellow arrow) should be connected to your carb and AIR. The AIR system may have been removed, the lower port should go to the EFE system. If this has been removed then don't worry about this bit at all.
Overall there seems to be a few hoses routed to the wrong place. These should be checked and corrected; incorrect routing can cause all sorts of problems (I know from my own experience)
There should be a stamp pad in front of the passenger head, (blue arrow) It would be interesting to see what the numbers are. (this will tell us about the engines original configuration)
As for the spark, I would check with a known good lead what the spark is like.
do you have any idea as to when the leads, cap and rotor were last replaced?
03-04-2017, 03:27 PM
#22
Intermediate
Thread Starter
A truck carb, but you can see where the vacuum to the secondaries connect.
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumbe...umber=17059201
If you haven't pulled the spark plugs yet, you can check the timing and see if it's set correctly. Do you know how to check timing? Own a timing light?
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumbe...umber=17059201
If you haven't pulled the spark plugs yet, you can check the timing and see if it's set correctly. Do you know how to check timing? Own a timing light?
Yes I have had the opportunity to check the timing before, only now I live in France and I don't have a timing light anymore. I'll have to order one on the net.
As for the spark plugs, they're not out yet I lost half of my fingers trying to see how to get to them
). Is there any way to check the timing without a light (while I wait to get one).Thanks
03-04-2017, 03:38 PM
#23
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Attachment 48069336
A few other things, I would remove the hose with the red arrow and cap this at the source with a screw in the end it is likely leaking or could easily leak in the future.
The capped port (yellow arrow) should be connected to your carb and AIR. The AIR system may have been removed, the lower port should go to the EFE system. If this has been removed then don't worry about this bit at all.
Overall there seems to be a few hoses routed to the wrong place. These should be checked and corrected; incorrect routing can cause all sorts of problems (I know from my own experience)
There should be a stamp pad in front of the passenger head, (blue arrow) It would be interesting to see what the numbers are. (this will tell us about the engines original configuration)
As for the spark, I would check with a known good lead what the spark is like.
do you have any idea as to when the leads, cap and rotor were last replaced?
From what I've been told the distributor leads and spark plugs have been changed last year (but then again can I trust the seller when the buyer lives half way across the world from him ). I will check all the hoses and see where they go (or should go). I'll take a picture of the stamp pad and post it.
Other thing, when I received the car there was a box with the smog pump in it (and a couple of tubing). Not sure what a smog pump is and what it does.
03-04-2017, 03:54 PM
#24
Thanks for all these information,
From what I've been told the distributor leads and spark plugs have been changed last year (but then again can I trust the seller when the buyer lives half way across the world from him ). I will check all the hoses and see where they go (or should go). I'll take a picture of the stamp pad and post it.
Other thing, when I received the car there was a box with the smog pump in it (and a couple of tubing). Not sure what a smog pump is and what it does.
From what I've been told the distributor leads and spark plugs have been changed last year (but then again can I trust the seller when the buyer lives half way across the world from him ). I will check all the hoses and see where they go (or should go). I'll take a picture of the stamp pad and post it.
Other thing, when I received the car there was a box with the smog pump in it (and a couple of tubing). Not sure what a smog pump is and what it does.
03-04-2017, 04:53 PM
#25
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I make sure every time I go to the gas station to put gas without Ethanol in it. And around here it gets harder to find ethanol free gas (
)
03-04-2017, 04:58 PM
#26
Intermediate
Thread Starter
The smog pump is the pump for the AIR system. The tubes would connected onto the exhaust and blow air into the exhaust to help with emissions. Unless you are required to have it then there is no harm in leaving it off. If this has been removed it is likely that the EFE has been also.
When you said to check the stamp on the passenger side head, do you mean the VIN number ?
03-05-2017, 09:54 AM
#27
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Attachment 48069336
A few other things, I would remove the hose with the red arrow and cap this at the source with a screw in the end it is likely leaking or could easily leak in the future.
The capped port (yellow arrow) should be connected to your carb and AIR. The AIR system may have been removed, the lower port should go to the EFE system. If this has been removed then don't worry about this bit at all.
Overall there seems to be a few hoses routed to the wrong place. These should be checked and corrected; incorrect routing can cause all sorts of problems (I know from my own experience)
There should be a stamp pad in front of the passenger head, (blue arrow) It would be interesting to see what the numbers are. (this will tell us about the engines original configuration)
As for the spark, I would check with a known good lead what the spark is like.
do you have any idea as to when the leads, cap and rotor were last replaced?
You will find below 2 new pictures of the engine with the actual vacuum hoses connected to where I suppose they should go to. The hose not connected on the picture (the red arrow one in your picture) goes to the air filter assembly, I removed it to take the picture
).The last picture is the VIN number on the passenger side head (matching number with the car).
03-05-2017, 10:00 AM
#28
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Attachment 48069336
A few other things, I would remove the hose with the red arrow and cap this at the source with a screw in the end it is likely leaking or could easily leak in the future.
The capped port (yellow arrow) should be connected to your carb and AIR. The AIR system may have been removed, the lower port should go to the EFE system. If this has been removed then don't worry about this bit at all.
Overall there seems to be a few hoses routed to the wrong place. These should be checked and corrected; incorrect routing can cause all sorts of problems (I know from my own experience)
There should be a stamp pad in front of the passenger head, (blue arrow) It would be interesting to see what the numbers are. (this will tell us about the engines original configuration)
As for the spark, I would check with a known good lead what the spark is like.
do you have any idea as to when the leads, cap and rotor were last replaced?
You will find below 2 new pictures of the engine with the actual vacuum hoses connected to where I suppose they should go to. The hose not connected on the picture (the red arrow one in your picture) goes to the air filter assembly, I removed it to take the picture
).The last picture is the VIN number on the passenger side head (matching number with the car).
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AGG50 (03-12-2017)
03-11-2017, 02:13 PM
#30
Melting Slicks
You've said that the car will start sometimes and not others. When it won't start what is happening? Based on what I'm reading I think you're saying it turns over but there is no spark so it doesn't start.
If this is what's happening then I'd be looking at the wiring going to the distributer making sure it is well connected and in good shape as well as the wiring under the cap. There is a connector that plugs up into the cap on the drivers side. Under a cover on top of this connector there are wires that connect into the coil and other sensors. Make sure they are not loose or broken. The coil (mounted in the cap as others have mentioned) could be faulty.
If this is what's happening then I'd be looking at the wiring going to the distributer making sure it is well connected and in good shape as well as the wiring under the cap. There is a connector that plugs up into the cap on the drivers side. Under a cover on top of this connector there are wires that connect into the coil and other sensors. Make sure they are not loose or broken. The coil (mounted in the cap as others have mentioned) could be faulty.
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AGG50 (03-12-2017)
03-12-2017, 11:10 AM
#31
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Timing
Hello everyone,
I finally bought a timing light (sure makes checking timing easier).
I joined a picture of the timing mark (timing gun in one hand camera in the other
). It looks OK to me but not sure I'm reading the position correctly, I'll have to check the maintenance manuals I just bought.
As for starting the car today I had some problems (again) but by doing some great mechanical work (I used the handle of a screw driver to tap on the distributor) the car started right away. Any idea why taping the distributor would help start the car or is it just luck.
I finally bought a timing light (sure makes checking timing easier
).I joined a picture of the timing mark (timing gun in one hand camera in the other
). It looks OK to me but not sure I'm reading the position correctly, I'll have to check the maintenance manuals I just bought.As for starting the car today I had some problems (again) but by doing some great mechanical work (I used the handle of a screw driver to tap on the distributor) the car started right away. Any idea why taping the distributor would help start the car or is it just luck.
03-13-2017, 08:20 AM
#32
Melting Slicks
Hello everyone,
I finally bought a timing light (sure makes checking timing easier).
I joined a picture of the timing mark (timing gun in one hand camera in the other). It looks OK to me but not sure I'm reading the position correctly, I'll have to check the maintenance manuals I just bought.
As for starting the car today I had some problems (again) but by doing some great mechanical work (I used the handle of a screw driver to tap on the distributor) the car started right away. Any idea why taping the distributor would help start the car or is it just luck.
I finally bought a timing light (sure makes checking timing easier
).I joined a picture of the timing mark (timing gun in one hand camera in the other
). It looks OK to me but not sure I'm reading the position correctly, I'll have to check the maintenance manuals I just bought.As for starting the car today I had some problems (again) but by doing some great mechanical work (I used the handle of a screw driver to tap on the distributor) the car started right away. Any idea why taping the distributor would help start the car or is it just luck.
The following users liked this post:
AGG50 (04-10-2017)
04-10-2017, 04:16 PM
#33
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Check all the 12 volt wiring going into the distributor and the wiring within the distributor for loose or broken connections as I mentioned. Sounds like your problem could be there. Or the module which is inside the distributor (replaces points and triggers the spark) or the coil but check the wires first.
Thanks for your suggestions and I think I found the problem (I hope).
I joined a few pictures of the wiring problem (rust inside the spark plug wire on the distributor side). Can this explain the hard start (cold engine) ? Where can all this rust come from?
I'll let you know if the problem of starting the car has gone. By the way I ordered a new set of spark plug wires.
Thanks again.
Pic n°1: wire going to the choke (before I changed it),
Pic n°2: rust inside spark plug wire cylinder 1 (distributor side),
Pic n°2: spark plug wire cylinder 2 (has no rust in it),
Pic n°3: distributor cap with n°1 and 2 connectors (n°1 after I cleaned some of the rust on it, not as shiny as n°2),
Pic n°4: inside distributor cap (I cleaned all the contacts but they were fine).