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When you press the horn button on the steering wheel a coil in the relay is energized and closes a contact. This contact allow current to flow from the battery or fuse panel directly to the horn. This is done so the high ampage needed for the horn does not flow thru the wiring in the steering column. The relay is mounted under the fender just behind the drivers front wheel well. I don't remember the wiring colors and routings.
I have the wiring diagram but was curious of what the wires connected to the lug did. I am running a one wire alternator and installing an autometer voltage gauge. Which of those wires is no longer needed.
I'm going to assume (usually not a good idea) that the new alternator has more output than the stock one. And you are going to change the output wire of the alternator to a larger wire. And if you are adding some large draw devises like electric fans- the stock wiring was never intended to handle that amount of current.
I'm going to assume (usually not a good idea) that the new alternator has more output than the stock one. And you are going to change the output wire of the alternator to a larger wire. And if you are adding some large draw devises like electric fans- the stock wiring was never intended to handle that amount of current.
I am running 8 gauge from the alt to the stater lug and running all new wiring for the fans. 100amp alternator.
I have been using this type for many years with no problems.
As a rule of thumb- underhood wiring because of the temps- move up one size - 8Gu is on the line- 6GU would be better. The current rating is at 70ºF-with a 540CI that'll be passed soon after you start it!!!
You can just get rid of the horn relay all together- add a much more reliable Bosch relay for the horns- depending on year loose the key buzzer.
