Replacing ignition switch
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 17
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Replacing ignition switch
Hi, looking for tips about replacing the ignition switch on a 1981 with tilt/telescoping steering column. I have the manual to follow, but as in all cases some real world advice sure would help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
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Download the Jim Shea corvette papers for your year. I just did mine this week. GM still has the switch. I would also change the dimmer switch while you have the column dropped. $100 for both.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
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From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
The instructions in the service manual are decent. The only things I can add are:
1) As you remove parts lay them out in order--then there's no doubt what comes next when you reassemble.
2) The "U" shaped piece that comes with steering wheel puller sets is not long enough to compress the spring so you can remove the snap ring. The service manual suggests using sockets or similar under the legs to get enough length. When I did that the entire piece would just bend as it's nothing but soft, mild steel. While the first time was a pain I got good at replacing the snap ring with the aid of a helper for a couple minutes.
3) The retainer/insulator is fragile. If yours is still the original it will probably self destruct no matter how careful you are when removing. It is ESSENTIAL! Not only does it prevent the snap ring from falling out but is an insulator that keeps the horn from sounding constantly.
4) Be very careful when moving the turn signal out of the way to access the ignition switch. If it too falls to pieces (like in my '79) save yourself aggravation and buy an AC Delco!
5) Don't forget to put the seatback up before installing the wheel!
1) As you remove parts lay them out in order--then there's no doubt what comes next when you reassemble.
2) The "U" shaped piece that comes with steering wheel puller sets is not long enough to compress the spring so you can remove the snap ring. The service manual suggests using sockets or similar under the legs to get enough length. When I did that the entire piece would just bend as it's nothing but soft, mild steel. While the first time was a pain I got good at replacing the snap ring with the aid of a helper for a couple minutes.
3) The retainer/insulator is fragile. If yours is still the original it will probably self destruct no matter how careful you are when removing. It is ESSENTIAL! Not only does it prevent the snap ring from falling out but is an insulator that keeps the horn from sounding constantly.
4) Be very careful when moving the turn signal out of the way to access the ignition switch. If it too falls to pieces (like in my '79) save yourself aggravation and buy an AC Delco!
5) Don't forget to put the seatback up before installing the wheel!
Last edited by SwampeastMike; Apr 29, 2017 at 01:46 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
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From: Central Texas
Certainly a bitch for this big guy.
Even with the seat out.
It's enclosed in metal shroud on top. Anti-theft protection imo. I did mine in the car. Pull the column.
We are talking ignition switch not key switch I gather?
Last edited by Street Rat; Apr 29, 2017 at 05:14 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
2) The "U" shaped piece that comes with steering wheel puller sets is not long enough to compress the spring so you can remove the snap ring. The service manual suggests using sockets or similar under the legs to get enough length. When I did that the entire piece would just bend as it's nothing but soft, mild steel. While the first time was a pain I got good at replacing the snap ring with the aid of a helper for a couple minutes.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
