It's time ~ Crate Motor or Rebuild ?
05-27-2017, 01:37 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
I went with a ZZ4 to replace my 350/300. My original is under the workbench. Happy with the result. 355 hp, 405 lbs torque, aluminum heads and intake, roller cam. I swapped out carb, exhaust manifolds, alternator.
Last edited by TWINRAY; 05-27-2017 at 01:39 PM.
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pthor (05-27-2017)
05-27-2017, 04:29 PM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
Your not that far away or you could ship it to Mr Lewis.
Is is a well known engine shop. http://www.lewisracingengines.com/
He can spec everything and source any parts needed then run it on his engine dyno.
Worth a call.
Is is a well known engine shop. http://www.lewisracingengines.com/
He can spec everything and source any parts needed then run it on his engine dyno.
Worth a call.
05-27-2017, 04:41 PM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Was there any issues fitting that new motor under your hood?
It looks a little taller than stock?
I have about three extra inches because of my hood and would like to go to a Gap intake if I can swing it w/o modifying anything(hood)
Last edited by pthor; 05-27-2017 at 04:42 PM.
05-27-2017, 04:49 PM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Where did I say I was worried about the cost of my build and where did I say I was using the stock heads?
Some of the issues I've seen where you buy create motors are:
1. They use reconditioned blocks,
2. Assembled in Mexico,
3. Cast pistons, crank and cheaper internal components.
4. And what do you do if it has an issue.
The last create motor I bought was a 408ci SBF for about $8,000.00. When it arrived I opened the shipping create and found the shipping stand had broke and the motor had been bouncing around in the create for a couple thousand miles. The oil pump was broke off and two rockers, springs and studs were snapped off. I fought with the manufacturer for several months while they fought with the shipping company to determine who was going to repair it. Once settled I shipped it back and when they returned it they replaced the studs in the head, reused the same springs and rockers and they didn't even replace the oil pump. 6 months later I received the repaired motor back with the new oil pump and they replaced the heads, but with a cheaper set that would not work with my build. I sold the motor to a guy who really did care, lost $$$ and found a 351 block and had it built. I will never purchase another create motor.
Some of the issues I've seen where you buy create motors are:
1. They use reconditioned blocks,
2. Assembled in Mexico,
3. Cast pistons, crank and cheaper internal components.
4. And what do you do if it has an issue.
The last create motor I bought was a 408ci SBF for about $8,000.00. When it arrived I opened the shipping create and found the shipping stand had broke and the motor had been bouncing around in the create for a couple thousand miles. The oil pump was broke off and two rockers, springs and studs were snapped off. I fought with the manufacturer for several months while they fought with the shipping company to determine who was going to repair it. Once settled I shipped it back and when they returned it they replaced the studs in the head, reused the same springs and rockers and they didn't even replace the oil pump. 6 months later I received the repaired motor back with the new oil pump and they replaced the heads, but with a cheaper set that would not work with my build. I sold the motor to a guy who really did care, lost $$$ and found a 351 block and had it built. I will never purchase another create motor.
I want it built by American that I can call if there is an issue and preferably a smaller business rather than the assembly line setup.
05-27-2017, 06:28 PM
#25
Melting Slicks
I'm with Twinray, I love my ZZ4 and have my original 68 L-79 engine. The aluminum ZZ4 intake manifold is suppose to flow better than the stock cast iron one, but not quite as good as the high rise aluminum LT-1 one. Lou.
05-27-2017, 07:57 PM
#26
Le Mans Master
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Bad news....ZZ4 engines and shortblocks are made in Mexico....by GM factory there. I don't like it either.
I actually had bought a GM factory 880 block from Summit, and it was made in Mexico too.!
Dart blocks are made in USA, and that's what I would do if buying another.
I actually had bought a GM factory 880 block from Summit, and it was made in Mexico too.!
Dart blocks are made in USA, and that's what I would do if buying another.
Last edited by Torqued Off; 05-27-2017 at 07:57 PM.
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pthor (05-27-2017)
05-28-2017, 08:51 AM
#27
Melting Slicks
I had to go with a 2.5" air filter because I don't have a drop base air filter up. If you have a drop base, a 3" filter will fit under the stock SB hood.
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pthor (05-28-2017)
05-28-2017, 10:59 AM
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
It would really suck to get it all done, then realize I can't close my hood!
05-28-2017, 11:14 AM
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
05-28-2017, 11:42 AM
#30
I went with a crate RamJet 350 from GM (14 years ago-wow!) and I've been happy with it. If I was doing it today I'd be more likely to go LS... just a lot better engine.... and lots available.
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pthor (05-28-2017)
05-28-2017, 11:49 AM
#31
Instructor
Thread Starter
What kind of numbers are you getting with that bad boy?
05-28-2017, 12:09 PM
#32
Never dyno'd it...
So I really don't know. I'm controlling it with a EZ-EFI 2.0 (Engine sensors are essentially GM 730 ECM parts, other than distributor where I use my old former tach drive MSD-locked out) now and it runs better than ever.
I like it quite well.
I like it quite well.
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pthor (05-28-2017)
06-18-2017, 09:48 AM
#33
Instructor
I went with Dougs ceramic coated headers. They sound great. If I had to do it all over again I would go with the chrome headers. I got the ceramic because I felt they would resist rust better than chrome. They developed rust after winter storage. Polished off but I was not expecting them to rust. Car was stored professionally, too
06-18-2017, 10:42 AM
#34
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St. Jude Donor '05
x3 if you got the time reuse the block you have unless you fall into a deal on a 1 pc rear main roller block. Personally Id document (the stamp) in case I sold it to a fanboy deck that thing and build it right.
If it was about being the original block how would that really stave them off?
See cars being sold with the original off to the side, nice incentive to sell but really, whos going to put it back in?
Did that with a ZR-1 it just took up garage space and the next 2 owners could care less...it was about the car/condition;the low mi original motors brough peanuts believe it or not
Be weary of cheap crate motors, they are mostly filled with junk parts and thrown together, with a tempting warranty
Unless youre pushing the engine you dont need anything more than a 2 bolt main cast crank. Get a good cyl head not that pro junk youll regret it!! Last one would probably never see north of 5500 but still put a cheap forged piston in it rather than a hyper blowtastic.
Big fan of 1 man machine shops getting harder to find. I dont want some hourly thats hungover slapping mine together.
If it was about being the original block how would that really stave them off?
See cars being sold with the original off to the side, nice incentive to sell but really, whos going to put it back in?
Did that with a ZR-1 it just took up garage space and the next 2 owners could care less...it was about the car/condition;the low mi original motors brough peanuts believe it or not
Be weary of cheap crate motors, they are mostly filled with junk parts and thrown together, with a tempting warranty
Unless youre pushing the engine you dont need anything more than a 2 bolt main cast crank. Get a good cyl head not that pro junk youll regret it!! Last one would probably never see north of 5500 but still put a cheap forged piston in it rather than a hyper blowtastic.
Big fan of 1 man machine shops getting harder to find. I dont want some hourly thats hungover slapping mine together.
Last edited by cv67; 06-18-2017 at 10:54 AM.
06-18-2017, 12:39 PM
#36
Safety Car
Spend a little more and get a "new" dart bottom end, AFR heads and get some cubic inches , 406 and up . Use a nice mild street cam and u will never want to park the car. U can have a way better smoother running SBC 427 making 450-500 hp then you can a 383. The extra cubes allows a milder cam and better torque with out compromising appearance under the hood and with out mods that are going to be unique while still getting big cubes and great power.
I would never do a 383 , or a 350 again. Even if the power you are looking for is under 500 , you just cant replace displacement in delivering it in a way smoother way.
I would never do a 383 , or a 350 again. Even if the power you are looking for is under 500 , you just cant replace displacement in delivering it in a way smoother way.
06-18-2017, 01:06 PM
#37
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St. Jude Donor '05
x2 love the 383 but bigger is always better
the ZZ4 and edelbrock EPS are 2 of the best all around dual planes ever made.
the ZZ4 and edelbrock EPS are 2 of the best all around dual planes ever made.
06-21-2017, 02:38 AM
#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, the decision has been made ~
I have decided to go with rebuilding my engine,. I took it to a reputable builder in southern Oregon he's going to bore and stroke it hopefully be somewhere in the 470 hp range. The final step after the build he will Dino it and I hope to be standing there when it happens. I've already removed the motor and delivered it to him I'm looking at about five to six weeks. He was excited to get an old Chevy motor since he is a Chevy guy, he says the originals have been very hard to come by and misses building them. I probably won't have it ready when Hot August Nights kicks off in Reno NV but, maybe next year. Thanx for all of the feedback, it certainly helped.
