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The 79 schematic won't work for your car... but just so people know, if you right click and copy that file, then paste it into your paint program it becomes a life size traceable schematic.
But.. with that said... here is the 1980 Corvette Electrical trouble shooting manual in PDF format.
The 79 schematic won't work for your car... but just so people know, if you right click and copy that file, then paste it into your paint program it becomes a life size traceable schematic.
But.. with that said... here is the 1980 Corvette Electrical trouble shooting manual in PDF format.
Update. After troubleshooting the best i could tracing wires and checking voltage, i stumbled across what i think is the problem.
And i think the issues were not related, yet they are.
After I replaced the popped fuse for the choke, i checked the voltage on one side of the blade and got a strong 12 volts. Put the fuse back in, then checked at the choke heater relay and noticed i got 10 volts, but it would steadily drop and settled around 8 volts. I checked the fuse and it was good. So i decided to pull the fuse for the stereo to see if it was the same. What i discovered was a corroded fuse !
I replaced the stereo fuse and WALA... it's working. HOWEVER, after looking closer at the fuse panel, there are several of the terminals that are corroded. The choke circuit is corroded enough that it will not make a good connection.
So any suggestions on how to clean the fuse panel ?
First where is the water coming in that caused corrosion? If you have fixed the water problem you have two choices? One would be to replace the fuse box and wiring from it to the connectors which would be work. Two you could go to an electronics supply store and but dome small files they sell. When I worked on the bench Electrosonic had a variation of small thin ones. It is a female spade connector inside so you could run the file on the contacts, then use a spray electronic cleaner. That should do it. If you want to ensure connections you can also but a contact enhancer (expensive) and apply it to the contact after cleaning. It is a liquid and you use a qtip or some kind of small applicator. You could apply it to the spade terminals of your fuse when you put them in and it would get on both services.
Good Luck
First where is the water coming in that caused corrosion? If you have fixed the water problem you have two choices? One would be to replace the fuse box and wiring from it to the connectors which would be work. Two you could go to an electronics supply store and but dome small files they sell. When I worked on the bench Electrosonic had a variation of small thin ones. It is a female spade connector inside so you could run the file on the contacts, then use a spray electronic cleaner. That should do it. If you want to ensure connections you can also but a contact enhancer (expensive) and apply it to the contact after cleaning. It is a liquid and you use a qtip or some kind of small applicator. You could apply it to the spade terminals of your fuse when you put them in and it would get on both services.
Good Luck
Thank you very much. There is a Fry's electronics not too far from me. I'll plan a trip this week. Is that "Contact enhancer" similar to dielectric grease ? Whatever it takes it would be worth fixing what is there. To replace that fuse block would be a major undertaking !
I think the stores call the little files burnishing files. The Contact enhancer is not dielectric grease. It is conductive and is made to use on circuit board edge connectors that wear down after too many removals. I think it is called Stabilant 22. Buy smallest size as expensive and you don't need much.
Well, i ordered from Summit racing a kit used to clean electrical corrosion which worked great. In reality, the corrosion wasn't as bad as i originally thought. Now i get a strong 12 volts to the stereo, but still having an issue with the electric choke.
I get 12 volts to one side of the fuse but here is where my confusion comes in which is the next hop on the circuit, the choke heater relay. I can hear the relay clicking when i plug it in and the ignition is in the run position. But i only get 5 volts coming out of the relay. I removed the relay, pulled the cover off and cleaned the contact point and with bench testing can see the relay moving, yet only get 5 volts coming out. Is it possible to have a bad relay ?
No in all honesty, i was able to run a wire from an open ignition point on the fuse block to the choke and it works just fine there, but i would prefer to get the original setup working.
If you look at pg 8a-43 and 44 at the choke relay circuit you will see there are 2 capacitors (c115 and c602. Check these to make sure they are not shorted. Can check them disconnected with ohmmeter.
A coil on an automotive relay should not draw much current Typically 80-250 ohms. Once the relay picks up the current will flow thru the heel and front contact. Easy to bench test the relay. Put 12 volts on the coil and negative. You could take a reading across the coil to see what the resistance is or insert an ammeter in series between the pos battery and relay coil. Shouldn't draw much. When relay is up take a reading with ohmmeter across front and heel contact and should be almost nil, SHould read like short.
Easy way for you is to buy a cheap 12 volt relay from automotive store and use it in place of original relay. Cheaper than buying new.
If you look at pg 8a-43 and 44 at the choke relay circuit you will see there are 2 capacitors (c115 and c602. Check these to make sure they are not shorted. Can check them disconnected with ohmmeter.
A coil on an automotive relay should not draw much current Typically 80-250 ohms. Once the relay picks up the current will flow thru the heel and front contact. Easy to bench test the relay. Put 12 volts on the coil and negative. You could take a reading across the coil to see what the resistance is or insert an ammeter in series between the pos battery and relay coil. Shouldn't draw much. When relay is up take a reading with ohmmeter across front and heel contact and should be almost nil, SHould read like short.
Easy way for you is to buy a cheap 12 volt relay from automotive store and use it in place of original relay. Cheaper than buying new.
Thank you. I was trying to understand what that symbol was for which i now know. Typically they look like two sideways T's who's tops face each other.
Any ideal of the location of the two capacitors ? Are they near the choke heater relay under the console ? I tried to seach for it on Google to know at least what i'm looking for. I know what a capacitor looks like, but figuring it's in some other packaging.
On close look I am leading you down the road. The c115 and c602 I believe are connector #'s. I am used to electronic circuit diagrams. There must be couplers or connector these are referring to, that said the relay used has common for coil and contact which could cause your trouble. Bench test the relay as I advised above. Also check the choke heater as it may be drawing excess current.
On close look I am leading you down the road. The c115 and c602 I believe are connector #'s. I am used to electronic circuit diagrams. There must be couplers or connector these are referring to, that said the relay used has common for coil and contact which could cause your trouble. Bench test the relay as I advised above. Also check the choke heater as it may be drawing excess current.
.. Glad I could help.
! Not only the diagrams, but where components are located !
