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Coolant Bottle Patch?

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Old Jun 10, 2017 | 11:46 PM
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Default Coolant Bottle Patch?

1973 Coupe Radiator Recovery Tank has a crack.

Exterior view.
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Interior view.
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Anyone here tried a patch of some sort? What works best?
RTV? Epoxy? Heat Gun?
Too bad no one's come up with a bladder. Repros go for $25 I noticed, but then I'd have to toss something I believe can be fixed.

Thanks.
Steve
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 12:02 AM
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When i did my fender flairs i cut the container by accident, some 35 years later i just used clear RTV to patch the holes left over from the saws/all.

Worked out great.. there is not that much negative pressure generated by the washer pump to worry about.

Hope this is of some help.
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 08:27 AM
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I patched the one on my HHR with gorilla glue 2 part plastic epoxy....It has held great and dries clear.

Brian
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 09:48 AM
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I used RTV on my tank also. It worked great.
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 09:55 AM
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Thanks folks!

You guys gave me the exact info I needed.

Steve
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 04:07 PM
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I'll give the RTV a shot.
Cleaned area with carburetor spray cleaner and compressed air first.

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Thin coated the inside too.

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Thanks for the ideas.
Steve
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 08:07 AM
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I guess I'm the odd man out, for $25 I would have just replaced it.

Last edited by Revi; Jun 12, 2017 at 08:09 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 08:18 AM
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The big box auto parts store sell a plastic reservoir crack repair kit, specific to what you are looking for. I saw one at Auto Zone in the epoxy/sealants section, I believe. If you can empty/dry it, I would imagine that a dab of the sealant applied both, to the inside and outside would be an almost invisible, lifelong bond. Good luck-
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Revi
I guess I'm the odd man out, for $25 I would have just replaced it.
I'm with you there Revi, on the cost thing.
But it's like, what do I do with the core? Sure, leave someone else to fix it, but it's like that with Master/Slave Cylinders, Power Steering Boosters, etc. sold core-free: Why not just fix what we have and save the replacement for the parts that REALLY need replacing? I've got too many cores laying around here, looking like junk, and for what? Me rebuilding them and then trying to sell 'em? I definitely don't have the time for that.
Tossing the cores just seems a waste to me.

Just me.

Steve
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Revi
I guess I'm the odd man out, for $25 I would have just replaced it.
If no one has improved the reproduced bottles that are available, they are NOT a perfect example of the originals. The extension necks do not fit them well, and or the caps.....
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Lakeside49
The big box auto parts store sell a plastic reservoir crack repair kit, specific to what you are looking for. I saw one at Auto Zone in the epoxy/sealants section, I believe. If you can empty/dry it, I would imagine that a dab of the sealant applied both, to the inside and outside would be an almost invisible, lifelong bond. Good luck-
I saw those too LS. I was tempted to try them, but I believed a flexible patch might be better here, due to a more vast temperature expansion cycle with the Radiator Coolant, as opposed to static Washer Fluid. I dunno, just me.

Steve
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
I saw those too LS. I was tempted to try them, but I believed a flexible patch might be better here, due to a more vast temperature expansion cycle with the Radiator Coolant, as opposed to static Washer Fluid. I dunno, just me.

Steve
There is a larger issue with Big Block cars and the proximity to the exhaust manifold. Often times the heat melts the bottles....Don't ask
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by War Bonnet
If no one has improved the reproduced bottles that are available, they are NOT a perfect example of the originals. The extension necks do not fit them well, and or the caps.....
One reason I had to fix this replacement bottle is it's fit.
This bottle sits higher than the original, and not only did the bottle break (because of contact with the Hood), so did it's cap.



Had to re-drill the mounting holes lower, in order for the new Cap to remain clear of the Hood. I don't like doin' that stuff.
Maybe the front end was in an accident, but the wheels aligned well without excess shims/adjustment.

Steve
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by War Bonnet
There is a larger issue with Big Block cars and the proximity to the exhaust manifold. Often times the heat melts the bottles....Don't ask
Can't figure out why ANYTHING non-metal in a Big Block engine bay doesn't melt WB!

Steve
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
One reason I had to fix this replacement bottle is it's fit.
This bottle sits higher than the original, and not only did the bottle break (because of contact with the Hood), so did it's cap.



Had to re-drill the mounting holes lower, in order for the new Cap to remain clear of the Hood. I don't like doin' that stuff.
Maybe the front end was in an accident, but the wheels aligned well without excess shims/adjustment.

Steve


Good job!

Last edited by Don Rickles; Jun 12, 2017 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 12:39 PM
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I've always used JBWeld on wiper bottles. It resists any kind of vibration and doesn't ever come off.
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Old Jun 12, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CanadaGrant
I've always used JBWeld on wiper bottles. It resists any kind of vibration and doesn't ever come off.
I thought about that stuff too Grant. JB actually sells a lot of various types of adhesive for sale I noticed.

I was overwhelmed.

Steve
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