First Post - Just Bought My First Corvette - 1978!
07-19-2017, 09:24 AM
#1
First Post - Just Bought My First Corvette - 1978!
Hey everyone, I just bought my first C3 Corvette. It's my first ever Corvette and I'm excited. It's a project but that's what I wanted. I've restored a '68 Camaro that needed much more.
I bought it from a performance center in Delaware who pulled the motor, did a valve job, inspected the entire motor, put in a new clutch, brakes, brake lines and master cylinder. It's a numbers matching car.
It needs an interior (the interior is there but it's trash) and paint and an exhaust system.
It runs and drives beautifully.
It's a silver anniversary car and I'm really pumped!
The first thing I'm going to do is the exhaust because I want to register the car.
The guy at the performance shop said to leave the cast exhaust manifolds and don't get headers because it will be too hot to drive. Is that true?
This car doesn't have AC so if he's right it may be unbearable.
I was thinking of ceramic coated headers. When the interior is out I was going to add heat shielding and sound proofing. Does anyone think that would be good enough to keep it from being like an oven in the cockpit?
I bought it from a performance center in Delaware who pulled the motor, did a valve job, inspected the entire motor, put in a new clutch, brakes, brake lines and master cylinder. It's a numbers matching car.
It needs an interior (the interior is there but it's trash) and paint and an exhaust system.
It runs and drives beautifully.
It's a silver anniversary car and I'm really pumped!
The first thing I'm going to do is the exhaust because I want to register the car.
The guy at the performance shop said to leave the cast exhaust manifolds and don't get headers because it will be too hot to drive. Is that true?
This car doesn't have AC so if he's right it may be unbearable.
I was thinking of ceramic coated headers. When the interior is out I was going to add heat shielding and sound proofing. Does anyone think that would be good enough to keep it from being like an oven in the cockpit?
07-19-2017, 02:05 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
NICE. I think ceramic headers and heat shielding is what everyone does and it works quite well. I have a big block and no heat shield and regular headers and my feet get a little warm if I go on a very long trip. Which I haven't done much anymore. 
Takings those t tops off will get you quite a bit of air circulation.
Takings those t tops off will get you quite a bit of air circulation.
07-19-2017, 02:42 PM
#4
Instructor
First thing I see is an L82 badge on the hood and an L48 looking engine under it. What did they tell you it was. Fifth number of the VIN should be a 4 for an L82 car.
07-19-2017, 02:48 PM
#6
That's ok, I'm happy to have a numbers matching car with a 4 speed. I think the hood was changed. It appears to be in a different state of disrepair from the rest of the car.
07-19-2017, 02:55 PM
#7
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
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Welcome to the Forum and congrats. Insulate the interior from the underside of the windshield to the gas tank wall to reduce noise and heat....you will make it very comfortable while driving in the summer. I even used waterproof HVAC wrap to insulate the inner door skins against noise and heat.
Make sure to do any under dash work and gauge repair while you have the interior removed.
And have fun with the car!
Make sure to do any under dash work and gauge repair while you have the interior removed.
And have fun with the car!
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Norcoastal (07-19-2017)
07-19-2017, 02:55 PM
#8
Instructor
He didn't say either way. He owns a performance shop and went through the motor. No claims of an L82. I checked the VIN and it is in fact an L48.
That's ok, I'm happy to have a numbers matching car with a 4 speed. I think the hood was changed. It appears to be in a different state of disrepair from the rest of the car.
That's ok, I'm happy to have a numbers matching car with a 4 speed. I think the hood was changed. It appears to be in a different state of disrepair from the rest of the car.
07-19-2017, 03:05 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
Nice & a 4spd to boot.
There were not many 4spd L48s made. The transmission is a Muncie if original (2.85 low) and not a Borg Warner like on the L82.
DU in the top left of the emission sticker on the firewall means the compartment was destined to have a L48 in there. Which you say you have.
No AC. Mine came without from the factory also and it does get warm in there. I just installed long tube headers so the degrees went up a few notches
but more power. Check out corvette central for their dual exhaust set up. Assuming you dont have to worry about emissions.
Have fun!
There were not many 4spd L48s made. The transmission is a Muncie if original (2.85 low) and not a Borg Warner like on the L82.
DU in the top left of the emission sticker on the firewall means the compartment was destined to have a L48 in there. Which you say you have.
No AC. Mine came without from the factory also and it does get warm in there. I just installed long tube headers so the degrees went up a few notches
but more power. Check out corvette central for their dual exhaust set up. Assuming you dont have to worry about emissions. Have fun!
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Norcoastal (07-19-2017)
07-19-2017, 03:14 PM
#10
07-19-2017, 03:17 PM
#11
Nice & a 4spd to boot.
There were not many 4spd L48s made. The transmission is a Muncie if original (2.85 low) and not a Borg Warner like on the L82.
DU in the top left of the emission sticker on the firewall means the compartment was destined to have a L48 in there. Which you say you have.
No AC. Mine came without from the factory also and it does get warm in there. I just installed long tube headers so the degrees went up a few notches but more power. Check out corvette central for their dual exhaust set up. Assuming you dont have to worry about emissions.
Have fun!
There were not many 4spd L48s made. The transmission is a Muncie if original (2.85 low) and not a Borg Warner like on the L82.
DU in the top left of the emission sticker on the firewall means the compartment was destined to have a L48 in there. Which you say you have.
No AC. Mine came without from the factory also and it does get warm in there. I just installed long tube headers so the degrees went up a few notches
but more power. Check out corvette central for their dual exhaust set up. Assuming you dont have to worry about emissions. Have fun!
My plan was ceramic coated headers to a cat and x-pipe to a quality muffler like Magna Flow. Also want as big of a pipe that I can find.
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Norcoastal (07-19-2017)
07-19-2017, 05:55 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2008
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2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
I have Stainless Work stainless, uncoated headers into 2-1/2 mandrel bent stainless exhaust pipes on my 77, and there is zero heat in the car. And realize that the left header is about three inches from my gas pedal foot. So, here is how I think my car avoids these supposed heat issues:
- Sprayed Lizard Skin on inside of entire floor and firewall
- Factory Style firewall insulation blanket
- Lowes Reflectix on inside of entire floor over the Lizard skin
- Installed foam collar on top of bell housing as was done at factory.
- Hood seal as factory (keeps engine heat out of cowl and into pillar vents)
- My engine compartment is not cluttered up with airconditioning pumps, air Pumps, or any other unnecessary heat retaining garbage. I have a Dewitts aluminum radiator with stock cooling fan. I believe I have great airflow through the engine compartment because of the above and this is really helpful in heat transfer.
- Obviously lower A-pillar vents and eyeball vents fully open.
I am not joking, I can drive the car in 93 degree summer PA heat, and I can not feel engine compartment or header heat inside the car. The factory four speed shifter doesn't even get hot.
This story that a C3 Corvette is hot inside is something that can be fixed with the above steps.
- Sprayed Lizard Skin on inside of entire floor and firewall
- Factory Style firewall insulation blanket
- Lowes Reflectix on inside of entire floor over the Lizard skin
- Installed foam collar on top of bell housing as was done at factory.
- Hood seal as factory (keeps engine heat out of cowl and into pillar vents)
- My engine compartment is not cluttered up with airconditioning pumps, air Pumps, or any other unnecessary heat retaining garbage. I have a Dewitts aluminum radiator with stock cooling fan. I believe I have great airflow through the engine compartment because of the above and this is really helpful in heat transfer.
- Obviously lower A-pillar vents and eyeball vents fully open.
I am not joking, I can drive the car in 93 degree summer PA heat, and I can not feel engine compartment or header heat inside the car. The factory four speed shifter doesn't even get hot.
This story that a C3 Corvette is hot inside is something that can be fixed with the above steps.
Last edited by Torqued Off; 07-19-2017 at 05:59 PM.
07-19-2017, 06:09 PM
#15
Looks like a great project started on my 77 about 3 months ago it has been fun so far.You will get a lot of help here.You have a good start with having a fresh engine .
07-19-2017, 06:09 PM
#16
I have Stainless Work stainless, uncoated headers into 2-1/2 mandrel bent stainless exhaust pipes on my 77, and there is zero heat in the car. And realize that the left header is about three inches from my gas pedal foot. So, here is how I think my car avoids these supposed heat issues:
- Sprayed Lizard Skin on inside of entire floor and firewall
- Factory Style firewall insulation blanket
- Lowes Reflectix on inside of entire floor over the Lizard skin
- Installed foam collar on top of bell housing as was done at factory.
- Hood seal as factory (keeps engine heat out of cowl and into pillar vents)
- My engine compartment is not cluttered up with airconditioning pumps, air Pumps, or any other unnecessary heat retaining garbage. I have a Dewitts aluminum radiator with stock cooling fan. I believe I have great airflow through the engine compartment because of the above and this is really helpful in heat transfer.
- Obviously lower A-pillar vents and eyeball vents fully open.
I am not joking, I can drive the car in 93 degree summer PA heat, and I can not feel engine compartment or header heat inside the car. The factory four speed shifter doesn't even get hot.
This story that a C3 Corvette is hot inside is something that can be fixed with the above steps.
- Sprayed Lizard Skin on inside of entire floor and firewall
- Factory Style firewall insulation blanket
- Lowes Reflectix on inside of entire floor over the Lizard skin
- Installed foam collar on top of bell housing as was done at factory.
- Hood seal as factory (keeps engine heat out of cowl and into pillar vents)
- My engine compartment is not cluttered up with airconditioning pumps, air Pumps, or any other unnecessary heat retaining garbage. I have a Dewitts aluminum radiator with stock cooling fan. I believe I have great airflow through the engine compartment because of the above and this is really helpful in heat transfer.
- Obviously lower A-pillar vents and eyeball vents fully open.
I am not joking, I can drive the car in 93 degree summer PA heat, and I can not feel engine compartment or header heat inside the car. The factory four speed shifter doesn't even get hot.
This story that a C3 Corvette is hot inside is something that can be fixed with the above steps.
I never heard of a foam collar for the for the bell housing? Was that a corvette only product?
07-20-2017, 12:46 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2008
Posts: 8,968
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2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
One additional thing I forgot to mention about keeping heat out of the cabin, I don't have heater hoses hooked up, so no engine coolant is making its way into the heater core sitting right in front of the passenger seat. I have no need for heat, as I don't drive the car in the winter.