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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 01:20 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
How hot is it running? "Above 200" is meaningless.

Out of the danger zone about 215
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 01:45 PM
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Have you looked into other causes like, timing and jetting? How hot of a day are we talking about on these high temps? What thermostat are you running?
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
Have you looked into other causes like, timing and jetting? How hot of a day are we talking about on these high temps? What thermostat are you running?

I really don't think I have a temp problem. I have an RPM problem. At 65mph the rpm's are about 3300 and the engine is screaming at 3,300. I was told there is a 3:55 gear setup but I'm starting to doubt it. The motor temp increases going 65mph but stays below the danger zone. I think I need to take it to a shop and confirm the ratio. To stay in the traffic flow I need to go 75 but wouldn't think of doing it for a long period because the rpms are getting way too high
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SKROCK51
I really don't think I have a temp problem. I have an RPM problem. At 65mph the rpm's are about 3300 and the engine is screaming at 3,300. I was told there is a 3:55 gear setup but I'm starting to doubt it. The motor temp increases going 65mph but stays below the danger zone. I think I need to take it to a shop and confirm the ratio. To stay in the traffic flow I need to go 75 but wouldn't think of doing it for a long period because the rpms are getting way too high
So, do you also think that GM designed all of the Corvettes built with 3.70 & 4.11's to overheat at highway speeds?

I just drove over 1000 miles in 95*-100* heat with 3.70's (3500-4000rpm) with ZERO over heating issues. Water temps stayed in the 180*-190* range. Notice the RPM, Speed and Temperature gauge. You'll also notice a towel between my right knee and center console to keep it from burning due to the 100* temps.

You do not have an RPM problem.



Last edited by Revi; Aug 9, 2017 at 02:56 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 03:05 PM
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Fix your cooling problem first. I have a modified 350 with about 10:1 compression and never run above 190 even climbing hills.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sstocker31
It will be better but not by much. When I had 3:36 in my car it was 2750 @ 60 MPH.
The best thing is to move up to a 5 speed trans, much more expensive than a gear change, but hands down the best mod I've made to my car.

Oh....welcome to the forum


I have 3.55s and went from a TH350 to a TKO-600...totally changed the car.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SKROCK51
I really don't think I have a temp problem. I have an RPM problem. At 65mph the rpm's are about 3300 and the engine is screaming at 3,300. I was told there is a 3:55 gear setup but I'm starting to doubt it. The motor temp increases going 65mph but stays below the danger zone. I think I need to take it to a shop and confirm the ratio. To stay in the traffic flow I need to go 75 but wouldn't think of doing it for a long period because the rpms are getting way too high

why do you need a shop to check the ratio. jack up the rear of the car, place the trani in neutral, parking brake off. Turn one wheel one complete revolution while counting the drive shaft rotations, a chalk mark will help. 3 1/2 turns is a 3:55, 3 3/4 turns is a 3:70. Your problem though is not the gears. I have a 3:70 and turn 3,500 at 70 and dont go that high in temperature, about 180 with a 160 thermostat

Last edited by MelWff; Aug 9, 2017 at 05:01 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 06:02 PM
  #28  
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If you have sufficient cooling components, you will get max airflow at speed, and the engine should never over heat. The first issue with a vette is the rad is laid back, and you have to direct the air into the rad. Secondly think of an engine like a power source. You create more power you create more BTU or heat very simple. The components have to match the power requirements.

GM engineers have been making and cooling the Vette for a long time, no need to reinvent the wheel. My junk makes 350 Hp very easy to look after. 3 core rad, shroud big mechanical fan and a 195 T stat. 16 lb rad cap. And just for the record. 195 is not hot. 200 is not hot thats normal operating temp for amy engine. You need to keep the water in the rad and in the engine until the stat opens the water in the rad should be cool enough to replace the hot water in the engine. stat closes water gets to cool off in the rad again. cycle repeats, pretty simple concept. You put a 160 stat in the car, that stat opens then stays open, never closes and acts as a restriction, nothing more. Not how a cooling system is intended to function.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 06:38 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SKROCK51
I have a 74 corvette with a zz4 crate engine (about 365HP) I can idle it in the heat and it stays below 200 degrees. However, on the highway even going 65 MPH has the RPMS over 3,000 - it's screaming and going above 200 degrees. I know I would lose some power but would I be better off with a 3:36 or so? It's running a 3:55 now
thank you I'll do it.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SKROCK51
thank you I'll do it.
Now that's funny, seeing how you responded to yourself. Out of curiosity did you ever check temp with an infrared temp gun? Is your fan shroud correct? Correct water pump? Chevrolet small blocks are made to scream. When you come down on ratio don't expect much wheel spin coming out of the hole unless you side-step. Mark
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 09:22 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Syl1953
Now that's funny, seeing how you responded to yourself. Out of curiosity did you ever check temp with an infrared temp gun? Is your fan shroud correct? Correct water pump? Chevrolet small blocks are made to scream. When you come down on ratio don't expect much wheel spin coming out of the hole unless you side-step. Mark
I haven't check with a infrared gun but everything else is correct. Posi-traction was added. I'm not racing I'd like to stay with traffic which is about 75mph. The way the engine screams at 65 I'd be uncomfortable at 75.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 09:36 PM
  #32  
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If the temp stays stable a high speed cruise, I don't think you have a problem
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 11:28 AM
  #33  
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Here is a chart you can play with

http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html

You may have a 3.70 rear end.

Last edited by F4Gary; Aug 10, 2017 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 01:08 PM
  #34  
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I have a 4.11 rear and (while it's indeed annoying on the highway) I never see my temps go out of the normal zone. Even on an hour-long drive in the summer and a bra probably messing with the airflow a little.

Gets hot as anything in the cabin though!
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 01:22 PM
  #35  
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I just drove over 1000 miles in 95*-100* heat with 3.70's
best soundtrack ever!
Try 4.56 on the fwy going to work with a 4500 stall you almost hope for traffic

Last edited by cv67; Aug 10, 2017 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 02:41 PM
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I agree it's not in your rear end. I have a stock L-82 with a close ratio M21 4 speed, and 3.55 rear. I'm at 3500 rpm at 75 mph. Never above 200 degrees. I'm at 3200 rpm at 70, and 3000 rpm at 65. Yes, compared to more modern cars with 5 & 6 speed gear boxes, the engine is screaming.

Look at your cooling system. What kind of thermostat do you have? At what temp does it open up? What kind of radiator? I have a Dewitt's dual core aluminum, and it's great.

Last edited by Rky Mtn C6; Aug 10, 2017 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by SKROCK51
Yes it does. I'm starting to believe that the previous owner might be wrong and it doesn't have a 3:55 but something else 3:70? I'll have it checked .
Agree it sounds like 3.70's and a plugged rad. I was having cooling issues and got the radiator re-cored for $800 and now i run steady all day long <190 with 4.11's on 90+ degree weather. On the highway im running 3-4000 on the tach

BTW im running a 180 thermostat. That was they first project and someone had already installed one.

Last edited by EarlyC34me; Aug 10, 2017 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 09:50 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Revi
I'm amazed that a possible over heating issue is met with recommendations to switch to an OD transmission. Really? That's the optimum fix? ...
Either that or "check the AIM"

Im with Revi... its the cooling system, not the gear.

Ive got a 454, that even with my belt currently slipping, is a 1/4" shy of 200 on my temp gauge in the heat. Yes I do have o.d, and Im sure it helps, but I can cruise around in 4th and the temp doesn't change much.

Stewart water pump is my secret

Last edited by Big Block Dave; Aug 10, 2017 at 09:50 PM.
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 02:32 AM
  #39  
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I had an overheating problem in one of my cars. Had the rad re-cored put in new thermostat, replaced the trans, never could solve it. I told my husband about it and he said "Did you ever check the temperature gauge to see if it was accurate?"
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Old Aug 11, 2017 | 11:33 AM
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Back when I was having problems with my cooling system I purchased one of these;
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...SABEgLb1fD_BwE

It's accurate and useful to see at a glance how hot or cool the fluid is without having to go inside the vehicle. So far my inside gauge and this radiator cap have always agreed. Verified with non-contact temp gun.
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