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They look good, glad they are working out as expected. You could go all out and paint some logos on the side, maybe a bow tie...
Yeah, was thinking of a "C O R V E T T E" in some script of some kind.
Realistically, it'll just stay the way it is "au natural" spruce.
Originally Posted by rastafford3164
You couldn't see them in my pic, but I have a set of regular car ramps, not the steel ones, some kind of plastic composite by rhino or somebody that I use for the pickup and higher cars, I slide those under the ramps closer to the bottom end so those wood supports you see closer to the top are the only ones so I didn't have to build anything else.
I have a set of those ABS plastic ramps. I thought of doing the same as you and putting those under the wood, but the angle is all wrong. I think I'll just make up another wooden "leg" and remove the 2x4 on the flat and replace with a piece of plywood, just to hold the ends of the ramp (two 2x6 beside each other) from separating.
Now that I have it built I could have gone taller, even another 2". I was concerned about the door sill hitting the ramp as I drove it up, but there is about 4" of clearance as it is now. Just need to put a "hinge" or something where the end of the ramp meets the "box", more-so so the ramp doesn't slide off the "box" as opposed to needing it to "hinge" to fold for storage
And damn, they're heavy. Need to cut a hand hold in the ends or add a lifting handle of some sort. Its all screwed together with 3.5" screws and where ever its screwed, its also glued with PLPremium construction adhesive. I'm happy its over engineered a bit as opposed to be to lite. I could have gotten away with 3/4" plywood for the sides (like MGB did above) instead of a 2x12, but oh well.
Maybe somebody who searches and finds this in the future can benefit from the pictures, comments and suggestions here.
Well it's up. Took a video during the first load but no idea how to upload it here.
2x12x12 construction. Vertical bracing every 12"
Need to reinforce the ramps a bit. Smooth out the transition from cement to wood, but other than that, I'm nappy. No creaking or groaning. Made sure the car was off high idle, climbed right up with zero fuss
this winter I'll wire it and light it. Maybe I'll get my son to sticker it up for me. Lol
thanks for everybody's input and suggestions.
They look like mine. lol
You can now move them back towards the door so the car stops at the end of the ramps and you don't hit anything. And you could also cut them down to just fit the car if you want, no need for the extract 2 feet if you are never going to use it. Cuts the weight down by 15-20% also that way.
The ramp itself needs more support. That's why I cut the 2x down along the side of the ramps themselves with 16" spacing.
Wheels on the inside sure help with moving them around...but I pretty much park on the ramps all the time anyways.
I have a Kwik-Lift and I believe it's the safe way to go....Any Vette is heavy and wouldn't want that to land on me....some people are more trusting than others..........
I have a Kwik-Lift and I believe it's the safe way to go....Any Vette is heavy and wouldn't want that to land on me....some people are more trusting than others..........
Guess you've never been in garage with a wooden floor or barn... 2 inch thick planks can hold an awful lot of weight.
There's zero lateral movement so no danger it'll rack and collapse. I'd rather be under that one than most of the quick lifts I've seen...
Yeah, was thinking of a "C O R V E T T E" in some script of some kind.
Realistically, it'll just stay the way it is "au natural" spruce.
I have a set of those ABS plastic ramps. I thought of doing the same as you and putting those under the wood, but the angle is all wrong. I think I'll just make up another wooden "leg" and remove the 2x4 on the flat and replace with a piece of plywood, just to hold the ends of the ramp (two 2x6 beside each other) from separating.
Now that I have it built I could have gone taller, even another 2". I was concerned about the door sill hitting the ramp as I drove it up, but there is about 4" of clearance as it is now. Just need to put a "hinge" or something where the end of the ramp meets the "box", more-so so the ramp doesn't slide off the "box" as opposed to needing it to "hinge" to fold for storage
And damn, they're heavy. Need to cut a hand hold in the ends or add a lifting handle of some sort. Its all screwed together with 3.5" screws and where ever its screwed, its also glued with PLPremium construction adhesive. I'm happy its over engineered a bit as opposed to be to lite. I could have gotten away with 3/4" plywood for the sides (like MGB did above) instead of a 2x12, but oh well.
Maybe somebody who searches and finds this in the future can benefit from the pictures, comments and suggestions here.
I was worried about the ramps slipping off as well, so I added an extra ledge on the end and drilled down thru the ramp into the ledge so I can drop a couple 10" carriage bolts in there to pin it. I had the heavy duty barn door handles already so I used them on the ends.
How is do those wheel blocks work? I am planning on swapping transmissions this winter, and like the idea of having the sides open to work. Is getting the car up that high a terrible process?
Originally Posted by oldgto
Wouldn`t it be hard to get underneath? You couldn`t access it from the sides, only the front & back. I use a set of wheel blocks (they can be adjusted in height)...
I LOVE the pit idea..... and it doesn`t have to be indoors, either!
How is do those wheel blocks work? I am planning on swapping transmissions this winter, and like the idea of having the sides open to work. Is getting the car up that high a terrible process?
Originally Posted by garrettb
How is do those wheel blocks work? I am planning on swapping transmissions this winter, and like the idea of having the sides open to work. Is getting the car up that high a terrible process?
No, not at all. The blocks can be as tall as you want to build them (see Richard 454... his are way taller than ours!). We use the floor jack in the center, and lift part way, place some smaller blocks first.
Then re-position the floor jack to get it higher, then slide the shorter blocks out, & taller ones in. With my son & I, we can get the whole car up on all 4 corners in just a few minutes.
We used pressure treated 2 X 6s, stacked & bolted as shown, with a 45 angle cut on the top 2 to make the "cradle".
Here`s a bit further back shot of my son working under there....
I find that 95% of the time I work on my car, just a couple of inches higher makes a huge difference on comfort and access to stuff. I have a set of custom built ramps I generally park the car on. The front ones the car sits on all the time and the back set are rarely used. Jack it up on 12"x12"x10" blocks built for each wheel so it can sit uniformly level and its good to go. Does not take up as much space as the larger ramps that are pictured and each block only weighs about twenty pounds or so.
Too scary driving up on ramps like these, the risks and the storage problems IMO kills the idea. I use mini wood ramps in front, 2x12's stacked two high, 4 foot long total, drive on those to get a floor jack under low cars. From that point I use a long frame floor jack and position 20 ton jack stands all around. Pain in the *** process but it's safe, gets my vehicles three feet off the ground and the wheels can be taken off which usually needs to be done if I need a car up that high anyway. Jack stands provide the best access to car bottoms than any ramps or portable floor lifts I have seen, that's the whole point. For oil changes, 2x12's stacked two high is usually good enough plus a big piece of cardboard for me to roll around on. The pit idea is pretty cool but then you have a big hole in your floor that will get in the way when you don't need it which would be most of the time for the home hobbyist.
They aren't homemade, but I had the car up on the ramps today, so I was able to get a picture. These are 56" Race Ramps, sized for my '80, with a pair of 2x8s to make sure I can get the jack under the rear if I need to lift the car up flat. I have a spreader bar and lift by the rear spring, at least on the '79.
If I need more height, or need the wheels off, I'm more than half way to getting the car up on jackstands. The ramps are lighter than you'd expect.
My 2 cents....Four post lifts are really not that expensive and work well even if you don't have clearance to go all the way up. Plus, if you get the kind with wheels, you can roll it out in the driveway and put your car all the way up. Powerwash, etc. You will be everyone's best friend...
They aren't homemade, but I had the car up on the ramps today, so I was able to get a picture. These are 56" Race Ramps, sized for my '80, with a pair of 2x8s to make sure I can get the jack under the rear if I need to lift the car up flat. I have a spreader bar and lift by the rear spring, at least on the '79.
If I need more height, or need the wheels off, I'm more than half way to getting the car up on jackstands. The ramps are lighter than you'd expect.
I was thinking of something similar to this. Rhino Ramps in the front and jack it up on jack stands in the back. Safe and cheap.
My 2 cents....Four post lifts are really not that expensive and work well even if you don't have clearance to go all the way up. Plus, if you get the kind with wheels, you can roll it out in the driveway and put your car all the way up. Powerwash, etc. You will be everyone's best friend...
I agree with you 100%.
But it would cost me about 4000.00 to get one. I didn't have that kind of money lying around when I bought the car. I could afford the 200.00 it took to make the ramps.
I need to take down the loft I built in my third bay to be able to get a lift in my garage that could go high enough. Before that I have to build a shed in the back yard to get all the non car stuff out of my garage.
For now, I will use my ramps and dream of the future when I have my own 4-post lift.
I agree with you 100%.
But it would cost me about 4000.00 to get one. I didn't have that kind of money lying around when I bought the car. I could afford the 200.00 it took to make the ramps.
I need to take down the loft I built in my third bay to be able to get a lift in my garage that could go high enough. Before that I have to build a shed in the back yard to get all the non car stuff out of my garage.
For now, I will use my ramps and dream of the future when I have my own 4-post lift.
Ken
I understand on the cost issue but for space I guess my point was that as shown in my picture that even if you can't go all the way up the four post lift is useful and if it has wheels and your driveway is flat, it can roll out for the occasions that you do need to go all the way up. Mine cost less than 2000, came to me in boxes and with a few friends (that now want to use it all the time) we put it together in an afternoon. My garage height is only 8 feet with the automatic door. Now that I have it I can never imagine not having one.
I understand on the cost issue but for space I guess my point was that as shown in my picture that even if you can't go all the way up the four post lift is useful and if it has wheels and your driveway is flat, it can roll out for the occasions that you do need to go all the way up. Mine cost less than 2000, came to me in boxes and with a few friends (that now want to use it all the time) we put it together in an afternoon. My garage height is only 8 feet with the automatic door. Now that I have it I can never imagine not having one.
10-17-2017, 11:01 AM
