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I am adding two more brake lights where my back-up lights were(76), on adding the brake light sockets, how has anyone spliced them in with out damaging the original wiring harness??? I know they have the splice on fittings, have used them on trailers before, or should I splice the wires with solder and then shrink tube the splices??? I guess this car will not be a REAl valuable car in the future(even though it has been completely restored and does not have chrome bumpers), but I want to be able to convert it back if someone else buys it and wants back-up lights. ANY DIFFERENT IDEAS?? I am going to take care of the sockets for back-up lighting, not going to BUBBA it too much here.
Solder and shrink the wires- these are brakelights- and you want to do it right!!!
I went to the trouble to add delphi weatherproof connectors as I added parking light halos and sequential turn lights and new license plate light w/ LED and then reverse lights with a hidden license plate and maybe a third brakelight on the rollbar.....
Using those splice connectors is asking for problems. Strip, solder, heat shrink at the least. If I'm doing a connector that has a chance of getting wet, I'll coat the splice with dielectric grease and then heat shrink and seal it.
If you use the right connector, there is no stripping, soldering, or cutting. This one slips OVER the wire you`re tagging onto, and the wire you want to add goes into the other hole. Pinch the metal tab down with your pliers, and it bites into them. Fold the plastic tab over and snap it in place. Done. Electricians have been using these for years without any problems.
If you use the right connector, there is no stripping, soldering, or cutting. This one slips OVER the wire you`re tagging onto, and the wire you want to add goes into the other hole. Pinch the metal tab down with your pliers, and it bites into them. Fold the plastic tab over and snap it in place. Done. Electricians have been using these for years without any problems.
Jim, while zillions of those are in use no problems im gonna see who is first to call them hack job,
Be that as it may,
That is a far better option in this case as it does far less wire damage...
Jim, while zillions of those are in use no problems im gonna see who is first to call them hack job,
Be that as it may,
That is a far better option in this case as it does far less wire damage...
I know that the blue clips are faster and don't require cutting the wiring harness, but this will never be an complete original car since I did add headers, composite spring, and 77 mirrors to it, so cutting the wiring harness and soldering the wires with heat shrink is what I will do, even if it takes a little longer. THANKS to all who answered, this what I was going to do, but, need some other thoughts on it.
I am not saying those blue splicing connectors are a hack job but they have a tendency to not pierce the old wiring insulation. The older wiring insulation tends to be dried out and hardened. Just from my experience
I know that the blue clips are faster and don't require cutting the wiring harness, but this will never be an complete original car since I did add headers, composite spring, and 77 mirrors to it, so cutting the wiring harness and soldering the wires with heat shrink is what I will do, even if it takes a little longer. THANKS to all who answered, this what I was going to do, but, need some other thoughts on it.
I agree,
I solder and shrink wrap all my wiring connectors and have wired all my specialty vehicals from scratch for over 30 years,
But your first post was hopping around and even considering one day returning it to stock,
So in that the little quick tap was posted by jim and was a good option, if of course they are the good ones and are used correctly,
Imho gm should have keep 4 brake lights , looks better and is safer,
So why not do it right if a person converts to it.
Last edited by The13Bats; Jan 6, 2018 at 10:21 PM.
Half of the connectors inside my 1156 and 1157 sockets were broken and partially failing anyway. I cut them off and added new replacement sockets for my quad brake light mod. I agree that soldering and heat shinking is the correct way to go, and using sockets that match the stock wiring colors if possible.
While having four brake lights is better and safer (a 5th would be even better), having passive reflectors (only on the backup lenses) is also safer for parked cars.
Half of the connectors inside my 1156 and 1157 sockets were broken and partially failing anyway. I cut them off and added new replacement sockets for my quad brake light mod. I agree that soldering and heat shinking is the correct way to go, and using sockets that match the stock wiring colors if possible.
While having four brake lights is better and safer (a 5th would be even better), having passive reflectors (only on the backup lenses) is also safer for parked cars.
Not sure what i want for back up lights my build is old school so just another reason im avoiding leds where i can,
I might run late 60s mustang back up lights to get a round lamp,
My 69 is a convertible with show bar and i might mount an old school racing lamp on it for that 5th brake light you speak of,
I just dont want that hooky 80s 3rd brake light look,
Well Bikespace, I usually don't have the car out at night anymore, just day drives, so the reflectors don't matter to me. I want others to be able to see me stopping because of the 4 brake lights, and I also personally think the back-up lights lenses look bad compared to the brake light lenses. If someone needs to take the splices out later, they can buy a new wiring harness, like I did for the rest of the car. So since I usually don't drive at night, the back-up lights don't help me much during day, except to let others know you are backing up. Mine were not adjusted correctly inside the shifting are to turn on anyway(the neutral switch is also off, will work on that in a couple of days). I try to park where I don't have to back up because of the poor visibility out of this car(IMO). I usually drive a Silverado pick-upwith better vision(to me anyway).
Thanks to all who responded!
Related to this question, was wondering if a 68 rear body harness is the same as a 69 or later where it mates to the fuse box. I am doing this mod to my 69 and have new harnesses to install. If the 68 harness is the same other than the tail/reverse lights, I just might swap my 69 for a 68 rear harness. Thanks.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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have you guys tried a "military splice". You tske your mecahnical wire stripper, place it where you want to splice, let it cut and move the housing and it leaves a gap. Then take a sharp awl and make a "hole in through the wires and sklide your new wire through that hole and twist or solder that connection. Cover it with your insulation of choice and it will hold forever. The old wire isnt cut and the new wire is through the old so you will have a great connection and it wont come apart like the blue ones can if the wire is thin or it wasnt a great connection when installed
not my video, he doesnt like the blue connectors but I have used them in the past
What ever type of splice you like, if it gets moisture into it, it WILL fail. A little corrosion, resistance goes up, current draw goes up, heat goes up until it pops the fuse or just dies.
Good quality heat shrink that is installed correctly, probably not, as long as it's the correct size to start with. A touch of dielectric grease never hurts.
Adding more brake lights
I am going to take care of the sockets for back-up lighting, not going to BUBBA it too much here.
