1982 corvette brakes
02-08-2018, 07:10 PM
#1
4th Gear
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1982 corvette brakes
I have a 1982 Corvette and want to replace my leaking calipers as it isn't driven regularly. I have read some about these stock calipers and I assume they are the lip seal type.Some say they are already sleeved , I really don't know . So now my question is the stainless sleeved calipers but which seal ,the original lip seal or the o ring seal? Any info on this would be helpful ,it is a stock Corvette and driven in the summer, garaged in winter. Thank You
02-09-2018, 04:59 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
ultimate
For a car that is not used much Stainless Sleeved with O-rings are the best bet.
For a car driven regularly you can omit the o-ring seal and retain the original lip seal.
The Calipers are nodular iron
The pistons are anodized aluminum
The seals/ pistons run in the nodular iron bores.
Dot 4 fluid is hydrophilic...loves to absorb water from the air, past the seals....which then rusts the iron bores, which then lets in more O2+H20 and moisture and then the seals pull (or are pushed away) from the bores and you have leaks.
which then lets air into the bores and you end up with a squishy pedal to boot!
So, SS bores= no rust
O-ring seal is a more positive seal than the lip seals= the 'ultimate' in Delco-Moraine goodness.
I have an 82 as well.
Many people swear by Dot 5 silicone based fluid...which is not hydrophilic for that extra comfort in a car that sits around a lot in high humidity condensing environments.
UnckaHal
For a car driven regularly you can omit the o-ring seal and retain the original lip seal.
The Calipers are nodular iron
The pistons are anodized aluminum
The seals/ pistons run in the nodular iron bores.
Dot 4 fluid is hydrophilic...loves to absorb water from the air, past the seals....which then rusts the iron bores, which then lets in more O2+H20 and moisture and then the seals pull (or are pushed away) from the bores and you have leaks.
which then lets air into the bores and you end up with a squishy pedal to boot!
So, SS bores= no rust
O-ring seal is a more positive seal than the lip seals= the 'ultimate' in Delco-Moraine goodness.
I have an 82 as well.
Many people swear by Dot 5 silicone based fluid...which is not hydrophilic for that extra comfort in a car that sits around a lot in high humidity condensing environments.
UnckaHal
Last edited by L-46man; 02-09-2018 at 05:01 PM.
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H P Bushrod (02-11-2018)
02-09-2018, 09:02 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
WELCOME to the forum!!!!
don't use DOT 5, stay with DOT 3 or 4 IMO DOT 5 will not mix with 3 or 4!!!!!!!!!! you have to clean out everything to use dot5, MC, the brake lines EVERYTHING!!!!!
IF you have original calipers on the car, you can hone them & put a seal kit in them, IF you have sleeved ones, they might need touched up and a seal kit put in them, the pistons MAY need replaced in either also, BUT the bleeding is the BIGGEST problem for most, there is a correct method(s) to bleeding AND a correct sequence to do them.
After I bought my car(almost 38 years ago) I had to hone the original calipers and that worked. BUT later I went and bought the stainless ones because they were supposed to fix everything, BUT it depends on rotor runout, that is what makes the calipers leak. So what ever you do, you need to check the rotor run out, AAAAAND don't have the rotors turned ( like other rotors on others can be done). IMO
Calipers can be bought at any car parts store. BUT you pay for what you get, some are defective right out of the box!
don't use DOT 5, stay with DOT 3 or 4 IMO DOT 5 will not mix with 3 or 4!!!!!!!!!! you have to clean out everything to use dot5, MC, the brake lines EVERYTHING!!!!!
IF you have original calipers on the car, you can hone them & put a seal kit in them, IF you have sleeved ones, they might need touched up and a seal kit put in them, the pistons MAY need replaced in either also, BUT the bleeding is the BIGGEST problem for most, there is a correct method(s) to bleeding AND a correct sequence to do them.
After I bought my car(almost 38 years ago) I had to hone the original calipers and that worked. BUT later I went and bought the stainless ones because they were supposed to fix everything, BUT it depends on rotor runout, that is what makes the calipers leak. So what ever you do, you need to check the rotor run out, AAAAAND don't have the rotors turned ( like other rotors on others can be done). IMOCalipers can be bought at any car parts store. BUT you pay for what you get, some are defective right out of the box!
Last edited by lvmyvt76; 02-09-2018 at 09:05 PM.
02-10-2018, 12:26 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
I have my opinion,others have different opinions.some will say to spend big money and buy fancy calibers.And I am sure that it will work but,,,, just about any caliber that sits a lot you can have a problem with the caliber leaking.If you buy from a local parts store ,you will get a factory type caliber that generaly works very good.Now when this caliber goes bad ,you have a life time guaranty and you don't have to pay shipping or have to wait several days.This works for me .my calibers were replaced 25 years ago with local parts store calibers.
02-10-2018, 10:23 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
I have some calipers for sale if you are interested...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ell-hoses.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ell-hoses.html