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Time for a new tachometer?

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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 11:06 PM
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Default Time for a new tachometer?





hey guys, I’m in the middle of digging myself a hole with my corvette and took out the dash and steering colum for some restoration, replacement and a vintage air install. As I pulled Out the lower left dash my speedo and tach basically fell in my lap because of cracked housings held together by tape. So my question is should I replace My tach with a rebuilt unit, buy a new one or keep the old? The tachometer worked just fine when I remived It, but the needle would bounce around with the lightest of taps on the gas. And from what I’ve read is that could be from the cable needing to be lubed. Any advice Is appreciated. I planned on putting a new face kit on it because all of my gauges work.
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 11:18 PM
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The blue plastic housings crack from age and heat damage. Ive glued mine together a couple of times. The cables break. The guage itself has issues. If you want it to be factory correct, plan on spending the big bucks. I tried the electric conversion to the factory tach. I have a few issues with it but it wasnt too far off. Im using an autometer electric tach now.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 07:55 AM
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If the guts are good you can buy a new face. I would replace the plastic and the metal can be blasted and repainted. My car looked like yours twice since I got it in 2015. I just put it back together again this week. Are you going to stick wth the old style incandescent bulbs or make the swicth to LED. I just decided to go LED since I had to pull the dash for the fiber optic cables. I decided to swap both of the forward harnesses since i overheated the ignition wires with a starter issue. Another wonderful, "WHILE I'M IN THERE" moment in corvette upgrading. I'm noticing my dimmer rheostat in my headlight switch is getting twitchey but its only 2 years old and a new one probably wont be any better

Are you replacing the heater core since youre pulling the box for vintage air or are you going to get it pressure tested?

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Feb 17, 2018 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
If the guts are good you can buy a new face. I would replace the plastic and the metal can be blasted and repainted. My car looked like yours twice since I got it in 2015. I just put it back together again this week. Are you going to stick wth the old style incandescent bulbs or make the swicth to LED. I just decided to go LED since I had to pull the dash for the fiber optic cables. I decided to swap both of the forward harnesses since i overheated the ignition wires with a starter issue. Another wonderful, "WHILE I'M IN THERE" moment in corvette upgrading. I'm noticing my dimmer rheostat in my headlight switch is getting twitchey but its only 2 years old and a new one probably wont be any better

Are you replacing the heater core since youre pulling the box for vintage air or are you going to get it pressure tested?
Yes I am Replacing the heater core because it was bypassed and my ac didn’t work. By the time I’m done I will Probably name my corvette “while I’m at it”
The prvious owner already switched to LEDS which probably explains everything being shattered behind the dash instead of taking it out slowly and the right way.
Is it normal for the tach to be so jumpy?
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 08:09 AM
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mines a tiny bit jumpy on startup at low rpm, so I would say , no. while its out try lubng the cable and putting it on a drill and seeing if that helps it at all. I think the pick ups internally are magnetic. If thats the case, try cleaning it, the internals may be full of dust and dirt making it grabbey

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/

This has some good tips but relates to electric tachs

http://blog.ecklerscorvette.com/c3-t...edle-bouncing/

this one says the cable is usually the problem

maybe I'll replace my cable while I'm in there........ I have a new one on the shelf

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Feb 17, 2018 at 08:15 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 08:12 AM
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I'd replace the plastic housing and cable, and put it back together. The plastic housing is about $80 and the cable $25.

You have no idea how old the cable is, you could lube it today, and it could break tomorrow. Everything's apart, so now is the time to replace the cable.

A new tach is $180, and it doesn't come with the $80 housing. The "bounce" you describe, sounds like a cable. So why replace a tach, that by your own admission seams to be working?
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 08:54 AM
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HEy Johnny, what year is your vette. I have a cable and housing I got for free but my 68 is different from the 69-74 one I have. PM me and I'll try and get it in the mail to you today, I'll save you some coin. I'll charge you free frifty free, as my buddy would always say when something fell off a truck.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
HEy Johnny, what year is your vette. I have a cable and housing I got for free but my 68 is different from the 69-74 one I have. PM me and I'll try and get it in the mail to you today, I'll save you some coin. I'll charge you free frifty free, as my buddy would always say when something fell off a truck.
It’s a ‘74. Any chance you have 2? My speedo housing is crumbled to peices too.

Last edited by Johnnypegs; Feb 17, 2018 at 09:02 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 09:02 AM
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you win!!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
you win!!!!
I sent You a PM! Thank you thank you!
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Old Feb 17, 2018 | 12:20 PM
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its in the mail, should be there tuesday
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