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1974 Corvette started out with turn signals coming on when brakes applied, then starter link burned, replaced link and burnt out again as soon as battery was hooked up (wires are correct on battery) replaced harness and ground wires, hooked up battery and burnt out again! What am I missing?????
When you say turn signals coming on do you mean flashing? And did all this start out of the blue? or were you working on something. If the fusible link at your starter is burning out you have a dead short in the circuit. Instead of burning out links disconnect power and use an ohmmter on meter to determine. You will need a wiring diagram. Positive battery comes from battery to starter. Then it goes to jct at horn relay to bring power. Take a close look at this wiring first. ps on ohmmeter you will get almost 0 ohms reading and watch as you check things
The turn signals light up as long as the brakes are on, they do not blink. This all started after the car was stored a couple months in the winter, never did this before, then the fuse link at the starter burned up, so I changed the front harness and as soon as I hooked up the battery it fried the fuse link again, I replaced all grounds except the one on the driver side pillar post (could not see that one) put it back together a got the same results.
turn signal problem could be mice? Anyway check all wiring to front and rear sockets. Somewhere the turn signal/brake wires are shorted. This would not cause the fusible link trouble I do not think.You changed the front harness meaning the engine harness complete?
If you mean you changed the fusible link after it burned up then check wiring associated. I am including 1973 wiring but there is a forum member who will send them to you free. You can see the wire from the battery in the diagram marked fusible link and follow it to horn relay etc.
Fusible links should only fry with a dead short in the high current wiring that is not protected by fuses. Providing the wiring is in original condition RED wires are the ONLY ones with such power. You'll find red wires to and from the alternator, feeding the fuse box, into the starter switch, into the headlight switch, to the underhood light and in 1974 I believe into the horn relay. Shorts sufficient to pop fusible links really stress the wiring involved so you should test first before applying power to another link. Even then I suggest temporarily wiring in a low amp (say 10A) fuse instead of the link until you're certain the problem is gone.
If the wiring is in the original manner it's hard to believe that the brake/hazard/turn light problem is related to the fusible link blowing.
Once you solve the problem with the fusible link I suggest removing all of the stop/hazard/turn bulbs and cleaning/examining/repairing/replacing the sockets. If you don't solve the problem remove the TURN fuse to see what happens. If the problem seems to go away then the problem is confined to the STOP/HAZ circuit; otherwise there is a cross connection in the STOP/HAZ and TURN circuits.
All the light sockets are new, got me stumped it has worked fine for several years then all at once it all happened, all wiring in the car has been replaced except dash wiring that still looked very good. But still the same results.
When you say turn signals come on when brake pushed does that mean the two indicators on dash? Do the front and rear turn signals Lights? All of them? What happens if you dont use brake and turn on signal?
When you say turn signals come on when brake pushed does that mean the two indicators on dash? Do the front and rear turn signals Lights? All of them? What happens if you dont use brake and turn on signal?
Haven't tried if you hook up the battery it smokes the fuse link at the starter.
When you say turn signals come on when brake pushed does that mean the two indicators on dash? Do the front and rear turn signals Lights? All of them? What happens if you dont use brake and turn on signal?
Disconnect the red wire leaving the starter and the red wire at the horn relay. Then you only have positive battery (big cable) at starter. With an ohmeter try reading from the red wire at the starter to ground and see if it is shorted
Will give it a try, didn't know why all the sudden it had a dead short, it acted like the battery cables were reversed. But they are not. I sure appreciate the input. Haven't touched it for awhile, wasn't sure what else to try but before long it will be cruising weather and I want to get it ready for it. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted on what happens.