Rescue Rogers

Thats always a warm fuzzy feeling when you find that out(sarcasm emoji).... good luck. That diagram shows a fusible link down there some where. You can make your own once you find it if you have to repair it

V4motorsports

Now, I'm starting to go crazy!

As I said, I used my power probe and rang out the red wire from the starter to horn relay and did not get any signal. So, thinking the fusible link had burned out, I started to unwrap the harness to find it.

This picture shows the wire from the starter to the missing link!


This picture shows what the link was replaced with!


And this picture shows the other end the missing link was connected to that then ran to the horn relay.


I rang out each individual piece and they all sounded! NOW WHAT????

I am going to insert a fusible link where the solid piece of wire was but this is driving me nuts!!!!!

Russ

Oh yeah....the connections were only twisted together and wrapped with electrical tape!

Cavu2u

Russ,
If anyone is stupid enough to replace a Fusible Link with a similar sized gauge straight wire, they are stupid enough to see their fiberglass car burn down to the ground. We're confident you'll get this harness back to health.

Steve

And quit selling your electrical knowledge short too.

V4motorsports

I'm thinking if I ran a wire from the starter lug to the horn relay, just to see if I have power there? I could add an in-line fuse just in case.

What does anyone think about that?

Russ

Rescue Rogers

You can but I wouldnt know what to suggest for amperage. The biggest fuse in the fuse block is 20 amp I believe so use a 20 amp. Its just to test, not to drive on so you'll be okay. As soon as you start turning on more than one thing it will probably blow. but if you just want to turn the key to on to see if you have power it will be fine.

The PO could have just had a few wires giving you a connection and they melted when you arced the wire. Some one here had the requirements for building a fusible link. You need to research that but I believe he said 2 gauges smaller for the link and he had the specific length as well.

V4motorsports

Per DUB, "Actually...a fusible link needs to be 4 gauge sizes smaller than the wire you are attaching it to.....as a rule of thumb."

I haven't seen anything that says what the maximum length should be.

Thanks

Russ

Rescue Rogers

knew someone would have the right info!!

Thanks, I hate putting incorrect info out

V4motorsports

I'm looking at Dr. Rebuild's schematic and it shows 12 gauge from solenoid to fusible link, 14 gauge for fusible link, then 10 gauge to horn relay.

The larger the #, the smaller the wire?

So I should get a roll of 10 gauge, just to try to get power to the relay?

Russ

Rescue Rogers

Yes smaller gauge is thicker wire.

SwampeastMike

Yes, fusible links are 4 gauges smaller using AWG (American Wire Gauge) than the wire they protect. They are also solid--not stranded like nearly all other automotive wire. About 6" length is common. If you go much longer the link will burn out too easily and much shorter it will burn out too late.

Any auto parts store has the proper wire for fusible links. It has an insulation designed to both protect and show when the link has fried.

Sometimes there are lug connectors at one or both ends of the link; other times they are spliced in with butt connectors--either way the connections MUST be EXCELLENT. Since few of us have the process tools necessary to make certain crimp connections, you should crimp AND solder.

V4motorsports

Ok,

So I ran a jumper wire from the starter to the horn relay and there was power. Bought a 14 gauge fusible link and added it to the original 10 gauge wire at the starter.

The car now runs like it did before!

Thanks EVERYONE for your help!!!!!!!

Russ

Rescue Rogers