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Well the next project was to rebuild the power window regulators in both doors another fine mess I got my self into. replaced all the plastic window guides and greased them up new regulators and power motors and the door glass too. cleaned up all the tracks and installed both and they work just fine have all my adjustments windows are centered in the door, fit nice front and back. did a paper strip test and have little tension every where the front is a little tight but that is new weather strip.
So the question is when the door is open and i run the window up and close the door all is good. if I open the window with the door closed and run it back up the glass wants to fall toward the interior and over rides the weather strip and jams into the windshield post and or the rear inside interior panel at the rear of the door.
It would seem to me I need to pull in on the bottom of the window to get the glass to stand up straight as it rolls up. i have the top of the tracks pulled in all the way thinking that would help There is no adjustment on the bottom of the window tracks to pull them in. There is an adjustment on the front window track guide but I have that all the way in so that cant be it... we had a lot of issues closing the windows from the beginning from all the sloppy rollers and broken regulator springs. if any of that make sense, what can I do to get the window to stay out at the top when the door is closed.
BTW the door panels are off if that makes a difference i can install one to see if that helps.
thank you for the insight this really a great site.
I had to adjust mine by making an adjustment and then testing it with the door panel on. Without the door panel on the window behaves the same as you have described.
I can't help except to say that with my door panels off both my windows really "flop" inward/outward when I roll them up/down. Maybe you could just set the panel inplace at the window opening without installing it completely.....that would give you an idea of the effect the panel weatherstrip has on the glass.
Last edited by doorgunner; Apr 9, 2018 at 09:06 PM.
I had to adjust mine by making an adjustment and then testing it with the door panel on. Without the door panel on the window behaves the same as you have described.
I just put in new windows not long ago. I like to shut the door with window loose and not all the way up, then roll it up as far as it goes, then get out of the car and adjust the tilt and forward/backward position, and the inward/outward position of the lower rear by sort of palming the glass pushing it against the seals.
Get it close, snug up the bolts, and then it's trial and error.
Last edited by BarryB72; Apr 10, 2018 at 04:31 PM.
I had my passenger side window replaced because of scratches.
I had the door panel off, he took the old window out and he installed the replacement one, he got in the car and asked me to hold the glass UP to the weather strip on top and push in on the left and right sides.
I couldn't see the order in which he adjusted them but he made a final adjustment with the door open for the tilt in/out.
My son and I tried all different combinations of adjustments with and without the door panel on still the same issue. [ close the door with the window up no problem, put the window up with the door closed and the window just wants to flop into the car about halfway up into the windshield post.] So I pulled the driver side window out last night. the only thing I can think of is the lower track mounted to the glass has about a 1/4 of an inch gap between the glass and the track. I'm going to mount the track directly to the glass and see if that will pull the top out. I know that's not how it came apart and exploded pictures I see show the plastic washer and flat nut between the glass and the track. but I really don't know any other way to pull the window in at the bottom. the adjuster slider screw at the front track is all the way in too so I may modify that to give more adjustment.
Thank you for all the comments and suggestions, the saga continues...
I had adjusted my windows until I was blue in the face using the techniques that GM recommends in the shop manual.
Here's how I ended up doing it...
Loosen all adjustment screws. Get someone to use suction cups on the outside of the window. Have them slide the window up into position in the weatherstrips and hold it there. Get inside and tighten all the screws. This should get it pretty darn close. You may need to adjust the front pillar weatherstrip to make things fit better.
Finally got the driver door window to not tip in so far that it runs into the windshield post. It still tips in but about 2 inches less. So its actually enough to catch the weather strip and rides right up into place with no problems. So here is what i did. I tried all the advice including the suction cups adjustments i had actually just got a pair about a month ago to install the front and rear windows. Although this adjusting helped it still didnt prevent the original problem of the window tipping in.
i removed the bottom track from the glass and removed the plastic centering washer and glass nut. Laid a strip of heavy electrical tape on the glass and attached the track to the glass on top of the tape used the bolt glass nut and centering plastic washer on the outside. This gave me about 1/4" closer toward the interior of the door at the bottom. Then removed the front guide bolt from the glass and used a dremel tool to remove about 3/16" from the shoulder to again pull in the bottom of the glass. Installed a thin fender washer and the same type centering plastic washer and glass nut with a little window urethane adhesive on all attachment points assembled and this actually moved the glass out about 1 1/2" at the top.
photos for reference.
After messing with the driver window for a few days the passenger side was actually easy. I did not modify any attachment points like I had to on the driver side and had no problems. Would like to thank all you for the ideas an input.
Door panels go on today after I fix all the stripped out holes and replace the velcro looking things.
After messing with the driver window for a few days the passenger side was actually easy. I did not modify any attachment points like I had to on the driver side and had no problems. Would like to thank all you for the ideas an input.
Door panels go on today after I fix all the stripped out holes and replace the velcro looking things.
Matt JillsVette mechanic
Matt I'm glad you got it. Jill should be happy now.
That was one of the most frustrating things that I have done on my Vette.
Car has been on the road now for a few weeks and the windows work great. I do have a bit of a problem with the glass catching on the Ttop pad during that last 1 inch of up travel. the weather strip is new so that may just take some time to find its place. going to try a shot of silicone on the weatherstrip to help lube it up...
Thank you for all the suggestions, it has been quite frustrating to get them in and aligned properly. but what door windows are easy.. maybe Im just getting too old expecting an easy fix. lol