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Old 01-06-2019, 11:20 AM
  #601  
0Willcox Corvette
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Originally Posted by Primoz
I have 2 questions:
1. I have all the brake lines an master cylinder removed from my 71. Can I remove the vacuum tank without taking the booster out?
2. Can the #1 bodymount at firewall be changed without taking the body completely off? The chasis has only surface rust and nothing major but #1 and #4 bodymount cages need to be changed. Everything else is OK nothing major just these 4 have rust eating at them.
I have this in mind:
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...firewall-68-82
The front body mount can be changed, that bracket you have the link shown would have to be pop riveted instead of the original style rivets, but it can be done. Can you remove the tank without taking out the booster.... I think taking out the booster would be the easiest way. You are only 4 nuts and a clip from having the booster out, to do it any other way would be from the bottom and removing the A shield off the frame. The only issue is to get to the bolts for the A shield you have to remove the rocker molding (which can be a royal pain). I'm not even sure you can get it out this way either....

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Old 01-06-2019, 11:25 AM
  #602  
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Originally Posted by franjw
Ernie,
I have 1971 that I ma putting back together. I have a new wiper motor from NAPA . I have a 12 gauge wire to the motor case and when I have power to motor and touch the wire tto ground the motors rune continuously. Also if I connect the normal wiper connections to the motor I get smoke coming out. I can see that the wiper case ground goes to the heater blower ground which not existent on this car but is there a resistor at the heater blower ground wire that changes the resistance of the ground or what makes the heater ground different from the chassis ground.
When I changed my 72 to a Classic AC system there was no mention of doing anything with the ground wire when I removed the blower and my wipers till work fine on the 72.
I have read your articles on wiper motors and tests but still have the problwm.
So the question is how do I properly ground the motor case and how to stop the smoke form coming out.
What am i missing?
Thank you for your help.
Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette

On another note:

Wiper motor issues and for most gauges... the answers to these can be found by searching our tech site. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/ .

Simply enter your year, then search with one simple word... "Wiper" "gauge" "temp" and so on.... If you search and read, you can in most cases solve your own problem.

I'm sorry, but the request for wiper motor help and individual gauge issue help has exceeded my human ability... I'm wiper motored and gauged out.

The help is there on the tech site.... the only issue is you must be willing to read the info and there is plenty there and if you do, you'll find your answers.


Ernie
Okay... I'm going to cut you some slack since it's Sunday.

Remove all the wires from the motor and bench test it (on the car). Remove the bell crank from the back of the motor so the arms don't work.... then hard wire it like the schematic shows on my tech site or in the video. You can run a ground from the block to the motor, pick up power from the alternator and run separate jumpers to ground on the engine... see if the motor works correctly that way first them post back.

Ernie
Here are the main articles and videos on the web site to help you.

Upload this first... http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...-with-test.pdf

Then review the items at this link. http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/page/2/?yt=1969&s=wiper

And then review the following.... you'll find your answer.

Video on testing the motor:
1969-1972


Video on testing the switch


Wiper Motor Bench Test 69-72


1969-1976 Corvette Wiper Motor Bench Testing and Some Relay Repair Help


Ohhhhhh sooooo Free Simple schematic.

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 01-06-2019 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 01-06-2019, 11:55 AM
  #603  
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
The front body mount can be changed, that bracket you have the link shown would have to be pop riveted instead of the original style rivets, but it can be done. Can you remove the tank without taking out the booster.... I think taking out the booster would be the easiest way. You are only 4 nuts and a clip from having the booster out, to do it any other way would be from the bottom and removing the A shield off the frame. The only issue is to get to the bolts for the A shield you have to remove the rocker molding (which can be a royal pain). I'm not even sure you can get it out this way either....

Ernie
Thanks Ernie. I just removed the A shield today and sanblasted it! Also the charcoal canister is out for the refurbishment. I'll try to take the vacuum tank out from the bottom. For removing the rocker moldings I use this to hold the nut at the back of the rocker moldings on with no issues.
https://www.kstools.com/en/products/...c-holder-400mm

Last edited by Primoz; 01-06-2019 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Primoz
Thanks Ernie. I just removed the A shield today and sanblasted it! Also the charcoal canister is out for the refurbishment. I'll try to take the vacuum tank out from the bottom. For removing the rocker moldings I use this to hold the nut at the back of the rocker moldings on with no issues.
https://www.kstools.com/en/products/...c-holder-400mm
You should go to church next weekend or buy a lottery ticket.......

The rocker screws are screwed into a brass nut that in itself screws into the lower body channel of the car. Possibly someone has drilled this out and replaced it with a regular nut because the rarely come out without issue.

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Old 01-07-2019, 10:14 PM
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Sweet... got the day off from this thread..

E
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Old 01-07-2019, 11:26 PM
  #606  
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Ernie
I see where the boot (at the firewall) for the clutch is deteriorated on my 73 SB. Do you have any advice on removing the top philips head screw. It looks like the screw it’s hidden by the power brake booster. The other two screws seem gettable. I gotta tell you upfront, that I am to Dam Old to remove the power brake booster by getting under the dash. As always, thank you for all your help. Happy New Year.
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:38 PM
  #607  
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
Ernie
I see where the boot (at the firewall) for the clutch is deteriorated on my 73 SB. Do you have any advice on removing the top philips head screw. It looks like the screw it’s hidden by the power brake booster. The other two screws seem gettable. I gotta tell you upfront, that I am to Dam Old to remove the power brake booster by getting under the dash. As always, thank you for all your help. Happy New Year.
I missed this question and have been under the weather with the bug the last 10 days... Over it now though. It's been a long time since I personally changed the boot, but I believe you can get to the top screw without taking the booster off. I can look at a car on Monday and post back.

Ernie
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Old 01-19-2019, 11:18 PM
  #608  
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Ernie
No problem, please get well and stay out of the bad weather. I always appreciate your help.
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:42 PM
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I'll check tomorrow for you.
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:29 AM
  #610  
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How ya feeling Ernie? Everyone here has been sick about 3 weeks now.

I have a question on my 76 lower driver dash.

I took pictures as i removed it, and looking at the aim, but i cant seem to get the new one to fit far enough back to correctly fit the shifter console.

there is still about an inch the right side needs to go back for the shifter to line up with everything. Its showing on the column shaft too, its just a hair to far forward but i cant find where to needs to move. Its also seems to be butting up against something because its solid. The tach and speedo buckets have both cleared the column support bracket, but are pretty much resting on said bracket now.

Last edited by naramlee; 01-23-2019 at 11:30 AM.
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Eliredandblack
Ernie
I see where the boot (at the firewall) for the clutch is deteriorated on my 73 SB. Do you have any advice on removing the top philips head screw. It looks like the screw it’s hidden by the power brake booster. The other two screws seem gettable. I gotta tell you upfront, that I am to Dam Old to remove the power brake booster by getting under the dash. As always, thank you for all your help. Happy New Year.
The easiest way is to do this from under the car, the boot is located beside the main fuse panel connection and I just looked at my car, there is plenty of room in there to remove the screws.... if they come out.

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Old 01-23-2019, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by naramlee
How ya feeling Ernie? Everyone here has been sick about 3 weeks now.

I have a question on my 76 lower driver dash.

I took pictures as i removed it, and looking at the aim, but i cant seem to get the new one to fit far enough back to correctly fit the shifter console.

there is still about an inch the right side needs to go back for the shifter to line up with everything. Its showing on the column shaft too, its just a hair to far forward but i cant find where to needs to move. Its also seems to be butting up against something because its solid. The tach and speedo buckets have both cleared the column support bracket, but are pretty much resting on said bracket now.
Feeling pretty good right now, thanks for asking.
Are you sure you have the main harness routed up and over the speedo and tach? Is the pad fitting in the upper groove properly under the upper pad. Check that first then post back, see if you can maybe post a pic.


Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 01-23-2019 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 01-23-2019, 12:03 PM
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Got it, thanks
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Old 01-23-2019, 01:03 PM
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Yes thats how i routed them back over the gagues, i have the dash pad locked in the correct lip and it lines up beautifully with the lower dash, its the bottom of the lower dash thats off, ill have to post pics later since im at work.

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Old 01-23-2019, 03:58 PM
  #615  
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Ernie did you manage to find out if the metal fan shroud can be mounted without taking the radiator out of my 71 sb?
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Old 01-23-2019, 06:08 PM
  #616  
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hey Ernie! I just replaced the wiper relay switch thats on the passenger side cowel as the old one was not holding vacuum. The wiper door now opens when the car is shut off.

The car just went in for alignment so it will be a few days before I get it back but was wondering if you had any ideas of what that might be?
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Old 01-23-2019, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by nix1981
hey Ernie! I just replaced the wiper relay switch thats on the passenger side cowel as the old one was not holding vacuum. The wiper door now opens when the car is shut off.

The car just went in for alignment so it will be a few days before I get it back but was wondering if you had any ideas of what that might be?
Somewhere.. you have a leak on the small hose side... Relay, over-ride switch, wiper solenoid. The reason I say this is the small hose side will drain faster than the larger hose side. When you turn the engine off it's not holding vacuum and the large hose side by default is to open.

Ernie
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Old 01-23-2019, 08:35 PM
  #618  
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Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
Somewhere.. you have a leak on the small hose side... Relay, over-ride switch, wiper solenoid. The reason I say this is the small hose side will drain faster than the larger hose side. When you turn the engine off it's not holding vacuum and the large hose side by default is to open.

Ernie
Ugh. I guess I need to trace it down somehow. Where should I start? I've given the diagram a look (using Dr. Rebuild for Early 69) and prior to changing the old safety switch the door worked fine except that it would close on the wipers before they would park. I installed a new one. I placed vacuum on the middle port on the new switch and it held. The old one did not. So I put the new one on. The only other new part is the light switch. The reason I focus on the switch is because that's the part that seems to be creating the problem....and tracing the diagram seems to be the "check point" on whether air is released or not. Right? I second guess this to because this happens about 20-30 seconds after the engine is shut off which prior to any changes, and some post up, I described a release of air about at that time. Hmm.... your help, as always is much appriciated.

Last edited by nix1981; 01-23-2019 at 08:54 PM. Reason: info
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Old 01-23-2019, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by nix1981
Ugh. I guess I need to trace it down somehow. Where should I start? I've given the diagram a look (using Dr. Rebuild for Early 69) and prior to changing the old safety switch the door worked fine except that it would close on the wipers before they would park. I installed a new one. I placed vacuum on the middle port on the new switch and it held. The old one did not. So I put the new one on. The only other new part is the light switch. The reason I focus on the switch is because that's the part that seems to be creating the problem....and tracing the diagram seems to be the "check point" on whether air is released or not. Right? I second guess this to because this happens about 20-30 seconds after the engine is shut off which prior to any changes, and some post up, I described a release of air about at that time. Hmm.... your help, as always is much appriciated.
Where did you get the new valve? If you bought it elsewhere... it's bad...

A vendor imports these junk valves from China.... and they leak. If you bought that valve.. that's your issue.. But I make the only non leaking valve on the market.. so your issue is somewhere else if you bought the valve from me, because they are all tested prior to being put on the shelf... and I don't mean a tiny test.. they are put the rigors.... but if you bought one of the china valves that'll explain the issue... if not you've got a leak somewhere else on the small hose side.

Ernie

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 01-23-2019 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 01-23-2019, 10:23 PM
  #620  
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I didn't get it from you. Sounds like I need to though. Can I send you an email about ordering one or should I order on your website?

Thanks again Ernie!
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