JamesM72

My car is a 1980 the shift plate console has several broken tabs. I have ordered a new shift plate and would like to use the original rosewood insert. My question is there a good way to remove the insert from the old shift plate without damaging it.

0Willcox Corvette

First let me say that no car from the factory came with a rosewood insert, they were all aftermarket made. As far as getting it off... and I'm just thinking out of the box here.. you might try to heat it with a blow driver to soften the glue and then try to get under it with an exact o knife and slightly rake (scrape) between the glue and the bottom of the insert.

Willcox

17535sjnr

I have a question about a 1982 CE rear hatch weatherstrip. Mine leaked at the back but was otherwise sealed the rest of the way around. I decided to replace the weatherstrip. The first one I ordered had to be stretched about 2 inches to get the side corners in the correct position. The back also had to be stretched to go around to the rear of the car. When I closed the hatch with the weatherstrip tapped in place, there was a 1/4 inch gap all across the roof and down the side. I never had a gap before.

Is it normal to have to stretch these single piece weather strips to get them to fit? Did stretching cause the roof gap?

JamesM72

Thanks I will give that a try

Rescue Rogers

Hey Ernie,. Tommy called and its on its way. Thank you

0Willcox Corvette

It's not normal to stretch the rear weatherstrip, but it's very common for the rear windows to leak on the CE cars.

GM forced this rear window design into production quickly and when they made the rear U hinges for the rear windows they made them out of a soft material. So over time, the U hinge tends to open. This causes two things, one would be that the rear pins will start to hit the rear molding with the oval hole and number two would be that the rear roof area of the rear window will elevate due to the hinge stretching open. At one time there was a reproduction of the hinge made from steel but I'm not sure if it's still around or not. One time I posted the link to this and the mods removed it (which I didn't blame them, they were not a supporting vendor). But if you search hard enough you'll find them on the internet.

Stay away from original hinges, they'll only duplicate your issue. Somewhere I have an original and if I ever find it I plan to make them myself.

One solution we used in our shop a few years ago was the place foam under the weatherstrip around the rear roof line, this spaced the weatherstrip higher so that it would seal.

Ernie

0Willcox Corvette

Good deal... I think he sent you the 68 sender too. You'll still have to dial it in though.

E

17535sjnr

Thanks. I replaced this seal before in 1999. I guess I should be happy it lasted almost 20 years.

I purchased a second weatherstrip from a different supplier and the part is the same. It has to be stretched to almost the same amount just to get the two side corners where they belong and the back two corners have to be stretched to get to the rear flat part. I wonder if they shrink when they age like building glass seals.

I was aware of the hinge issue. I read somewhere that they were supposed to measure 3 inches from window pin to the hinge pin. Mine are definitely wider than that, almost 3-1/2 inches. My rear catches are still centered somehow.

I guess I will send my second one back too and keep searching for a supplier that has a seal that does not need to be stretched.

Thanks again!

0Willcox Corvette

There is only one supplier of the seal... so wherever you buy it you'll get the same product. I've never had the stretch issue here in the shop though... .

E

Jim71Vette

Thanks Ernie

Looks like I have a motor problem. This 71 motor worked fine when removed and boxed several years ago.
Removed the pump assembly.
The battery is charged.
Battery -12 to case ground.
Battery +12 to red wire.
Battery +12 to yellow wire.
When grounding blue wire or blue and green wires to case the relay clicks, motor doesn't run.

Is there anything else I can try? I don't want to start disassembly yet if I don't need to.
If I do start taking this motor apart, is there a "rebuild kit" available?

Probably going to be easier and less stress to just get a new motor.

Thanks,
Jim

0Willcox Corvette

If it failed the test above... New motor... I stopped rebuilding motors years ago because buying rebuilt was cheaper but now with the reproduction motors it's a no brainer... no core charge and a new motor. Now one thing you can do is pull the pump off it and spray the gear with some brake cleaner... it may just be a case of it being gummed up but I doubt it.

0Willcox Corvette

Wow, three days off from you guys.... you'd better get with it, I'm heading out of town soon...

E

Eliredandblack

Ernie
i would like to adjust the lock strike pin on the
drivers door for my 73 convertible. The service manual said to use modeling clay. Ok, I will admit that I tried using some, and all it did was make a mess. I have a fear of getting the lock jammed, and then not being able to open the door. Right now it seems that the strike pin needs to move down a bit. I am sure you have a bullet proof method to get it adjusted so that lock doesn’t bind when the door is closing..
Stay well and keep cool.
Eli

0Willcox Corvette

There really isn't any way to do this easy if you don't have witness marks. You have to make sure the striker head is clear of everything first of all, making sure the latch is hitting on the inner section. The striker's were "shim as required" when installed at the factory with spacer part number 3876340. These shims pushed the bolt further forward. One trick is instead of using clay which will make mess, rob some of your gal's lipstick, coat the striker with this and then gently close the door. You should also have the door panel off the car so that you can watch the contact. The lipstick will make marks on the lock so you'll know which way to adjust the striker.

E

Eliredandblack

Ernie
The method using lipstick sounds great, and I would have never thought to remove the door panel. Being able to see the strike will make a big difference when adjusting the pin.
Thanks for getting back to me.
Eli

0Willcox Corvette

Just don't get it on your collar ...

l82vett

On your web site it says that the hole will need to be enlarged on the 1980 rear end replacement snubber. do I just use a big drill bit? and what size might that be? Thanks

Eliredandblack

Ernie
I had to read your instructions on adjusting the strike pin to my wife. She got a big chuckle when you advised me to keep the lipstick off my collar. When ever I talked about my cars, she normally just nods her head. Keep up the great one liners.
Eli

0Willcox Corvette

First off.. wow.. 50k views in a year...

Okay.. I'll have to revisit this for you. But if you have the 1963-1979 snubber the hole in the bracket needs to be enlarged to the size of the bushing that pass's through the hole. If you have micrometer you can measure this by using the bushing... if not post back and I'll have Kevin mic one tomorrow for you.

E

0Willcox Corvette

Happy wife Happy life seems to be fitting. You get that on your collar regardless of how.... and you got serious issues... lol..

Take care,

E