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Seems like this car has random bits and pieces from all eras. I will do my best to restore at least the exterior to era correct 68/69.
Here are some pictures of the exterior and interior and engine. There are a bunch of random wires that are just hanging, not connected to anything, any insight into what those are or where they need to be connected would be appreciated, also my tach doesn't work so I'm trying to figure out where to look to get that working as well
The tach in a 68 is driven via a calbe from the distributor. Your distributor is a HEI design from a 74 or newer GM which does not have a tach drive feature. That white porcelon ballast resistor is no longer needed. Toss it. That larger wire end photo should have a fusable link then goes to the starter. Rubber fuel lines gotta go. Alternator is on the wrong side of the engine. Contact CF member 'papawana' he can supply you with a wiring diagram or a non supporting vendor called DR. REBUILD, they have excellent colored plastic coated wiring diagrams. T
The tach in a 68 is driven via a calbe from the distributor. Your distributor is a HEI design from a 74 or newer GM which does not have a tach drive feature. That white porcelon ballast resistor is no longer needed. Toss it. That larger wire end photo should have a fusable link then goes to the starter. Rubber fuel lines gotta go. Alternator is on the wrong side of the engine. Contact CF member 'papawana' he can supply you with a wiring diagram or a non supporting vendor called DR. REBUILD, they have excellent colored plastic coated wiring diagrams. T
Thank you for that!
Which larger wire are you referring to that should have a fusable link to starter?
Also get an Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM). The only issue you'll have is it does appear your car is a combination of a bunch of years. Do a VIN search do decode your VIN and that will tell you what year it came out of the factory in. By the looks of the dash you have the dash mounted ignition key. That was 1968 only so if I had to bet your VIN is probably 1968.
The AIM should help you get it back to all 1968 the only problem you'll find is there a many 1968 only parts that are hard to find.
You are exactly where I was a little over three years ago. I bought a '68 that had almost no 68-specific stuff left. It had a '73/74 front clip, interior patched together from early '70s stuff, and "incorrect" stuff everywhere. It's a small block with an auto (though I found out it was originally a 4-speed). Like yours, it ran and drove fine (though the tires were so dry-rotted I didn't dare get over parking lot speeds).
I've spent every weekend, nearly every evening, and all my vacation time for the past 3 years on the car. And more money than it will be worth.
If I can, let me give you some advice borne of experience. First and foremost, do NOT under any circumstances get on the "correct" bandwagon. The changes go deeper than you would ever believe and you'll spend (no joke) triple vs. '69 stuff that nobody would ever notice. There will be some things you can't help, like the felt that goes inside the side windows that's $200 because it fits '68-only doors (and the doors are the give-away in the pics of your car's year, btw). But don't spend a single penny to '68-only stuff unless you have no option. It is an endless list. Endless. And all that happens if you spend $1000 converting most of the interior is that the first C3 person that looks at it will spend five minutes saying what you missed. And you'll realize you need another $2000 to make it "right."
If this is a rare car that will be worth serious money, it might be worth it. But if it's just a run-of-the-mill example, you'll spend triple the money and roughly double the time to make it right and lose your shirt.
On mine, I was dead set on a '68 front clip, short hood and correct backup lights. The rest, I left. I have a very nice "incorrect" interior and neat underhood area, but a purist would have a conniption. But I don't care. I like it. Even then, just the front clip swap is a $5000 ticket before bodywork and paint (if you want an original front, add $2000 to that). I wrote a thread on it with all the parts you need and prices if you're thinking about it. After three years of work, I have maybe a month left before it's on the road. Cannot wait.
Here's my point, decide what you want and don't let yourself be seduced by the '68 thing.
Man your car is nice! I really appreciate the words of wisdom. Honestly I don’t really care all that much if my car is not perfectly 68. I just want something that runs good and looks good. The only things on this car that I have to change is the side vents to the 68/69 style and the front grill as well. The rest of the car looks fine to me as it is. Interior wise the only things I’m replacing are the door panels since they’re ripped and the steering wheel. It doesn’t bother me if pieces on the car are not 68.
My main investment at this point will be to address the critical items like rebuilding the front suspension, getting all the lightning/vacuum items working and sorting out the wiring.
The things ive bought so far are the door panels, full weatherstripping kit, 68 side vent kit, 68 mirrors and long tube headers n side pipes.
I will I’ll be purchasing the front suspension rebuild kit, rear suspension and bushings kit and getting the carb rebuilt.
Everything else can wait at this point. I don’t want to bite off more than I can chew.
The tach in a 68 is driven via a calbe from the distributor. Your distributor is a HEI design from a 74 or newer GM which does not have a tach drive feature. That white porcelon ballast resistor is no longer needed. Toss it. That larger wire end photo should have a fusable link then goes to the starter. Rubber fuel lines gotta go. Alternator is on the wrong side of the engine. Contact CF member 'papawana' he can supply you with a wiring diagram or a non supporting vendor called DR. REBUILD, they have excellent colored plastic coated wiring diagrams. T
Can you point me to a distributor that has the tach drive feature I need?
MSD makes a nice tach drive distributor MSD #8572 Does your tach work now? If so then the tach gauge itself may need to be changed back to the drive cable type as the later years are electric and if you don't have a tach drive distributor and your tach is working it was converted. You may want to leave it that way.
You can get an AIM from any of the major vendors either hard copy or on CD. If you get a hard copy be sure to spring for the index as the AIM by itself is hard to navigate. It's basically what the factory used to assemble the car and is invaluable to see how it was done. I can tell you my '71 AIM is worn out.
Those 70-72 Front grills, if in good shape, and not broken are worth around $1000 for the pair. Maybe sell those on to fund the huge tires that this car is begging for!
Those 70-72 Front grills, if in good shape, and not broken are worth around $1000 for the pair. Maybe sell those on to fund the huge tires that this car is begging for!
Wow I had no idea they are worth that much!!! I will definitely post them here once my new 68 grills arrive
MSD makes a nice tach drive distributor MSD #8572 Does your tach work now? If so then the tach gauge itself may need to be changed back to the drive cable type as the later years are electric and if you don't have a tach drive distributor and your tach is working it was converted. You may want to leave it that way.
You can get an AIM from any of the major vendors either hard copy or on CD. If you get a hard copy be sure to spring for the index as the AIM by itself is hard to navigate. It's basically what the factory used to assemble the car and is invaluable to see how it was done. I can tell you my '71 AIM is worn out.
My tach now does not work, another member here stated that my distributor does not have tach drive. I'd like to get the tach working so Im guessing I need the correct type if distributor.
I was shocked at how much the price varies $100 - $600!! I'm not sure where on that spectrum I should be on?
So doc cancelled my order for some reason, now I'm looking else where to get the aim with index and the wiring diagrams.
You are exactly where I was a little over three years ago. I bought a '68 that had almost no 68-specific stuff left. It had a '73/74 front clip, interior patched together from early '70s stuff, and "incorrect" stuff everywhere. It's a small block with an auto (though I found out it was originally a 4-speed). Like yours, it ran and drove fine (though the tires were so dry-rotted I didn't dare get over parking lot speeds).
I've spent every weekend, nearly every evening, and all my vacation time for the past 3 years on the car. And more money than it will be worth.
If I can, let me give you some advice borne of experience. First and foremost, do NOT under any circumstances get on the "correct" bandwagon. The changes go deeper than you would ever believe and you'll spend (no joke) triple vs. '69 stuff that nobody would ever notice. There will be some things you can't help, like the felt that goes inside the side windows that's $200 because it fits '68-only doors (and the doors are the give-away in the pics of your car's year, btw). But don't spend a single penny to '68-only stuff unless you have no option. It is an endless list. Endless. And all that happens if you spend $1000 converting most of the interior is that the first C3 person that looks at it will spend five minutes saying what you missed. And you'll realize you need another $2000 to make it "right."
If this is a rare car that will be worth serious money, it might be worth it. But if it's just a run-of-the-mill example, you'll spend triple the money and roughly double the time to make it right and lose your shirt.
On mine, I was dead set on a '68 front clip, short hood and correct backup lights. The rest, I left. I have a very nice "incorrect" interior and neat underhood area, but a purist would have a conniption. But I don't care. I like it. Even then, just the front clip swap is a $5000 ticket before bodywork and paint (if you want an original front, add $2000 to that). I wrote a thread on it with all the parts you need and prices if you're thinking about it. After three years of work, I have maybe a month left before it's on the road. Cannot wait.
Here's my point, decide what you want and don't let yourself be seduced by the '68 thing.
Can you point me to a distributor that has the tach drive feature I need?
I like 'E Murray' suggestion, you would have to check and see if the calbe is still there. Also another thought is to change your tach to a newer style vette that has an electronic tach that will match up with your existing dist. Many have done that. There are OEM dist that pop up in the parts for sale column frequently for around $120, but then you are back to a point ignition.. Don't rush your project. T
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