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I have a friend that is selling his 68 Corvette. He has offered it to me for a deal but something looks odd with the suspension so I thought I would post it here to see what everyone thought.
Pretty sweet car if it passes the rust questions, ( no, its not rust free )
I am not a flames on c3 fan but those look pretty darn good, get some better sized tires, lower it and have a ball...
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I had those tires, they are about 1/2 inch smaller than the 27" tire size that should be on there. They will give you alot of room in the wheel well and the speedometer will be off a bit. You just have to adjust the 2 spring bolts near the tires and you can lower it.
He may have jacked it up a bit for the exhaust to clear, it doesnt look like its a kit that fits, maybe a custom job at a local garage
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Jun 7, 2018 at 07:13 AM.
the front end parts are all new, except maybe the steering stabilizer. which I want to check out in the spring. It has a ZZ4 crate engine(350) pushing 400 hp. has a manual 4spd with heavy duty clutch. I think may need adjusted and possibly a throw out bearing. Rattles sometimes when cold. The brakes were just gone thru with new pads and a few other parts. They are manual brakes and it has manual steering. had a tire brake a belt last summer. I put a tire I had here in its place. I would go ahead and put all new tires on it. It pulls very strong. and when you get on it hard the car pulls funny. had a corvette shop check out the rear end to make sure nothing was seriously wrong. he couldn't find any problems. Havent went any farther with that. winter showed up.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Pulling when you get on it could be a rear trailing arm alignment issue. The clutch rattling when it's cold could be a broken spring in the clutch, does it rattle with the clutch in, out , in gear, nuetral????
With the tires, if one separated all ready, dont drive it with them on, if the come apart you could lose a fender. Search tires on the site
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Jun 7, 2018 at 12:04 PM.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by lan240
It pulls very strong. and when you get on it hard the car pulls funny. had a corvette shop check out the rear end to make sure nothing was seriously wrong. he couldn't find any problems. Havent went any farther with that. winter showed up.
that says to me the rear end or axle stubs have problems....thats an expensive fix.....do your due diligence here...also if the front springs are shot when you get on it hard and the front lifts....the steering geometry gets goofy.....i wonder if thats why he has the back up so high
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
that says to me the rear end or axle stubs have problems....thats an expensive fix.....do your due diligence here...also if the front springs are shot when you get on it hard and the front lifts....the steering geometry gets goofy.....i wonder if thats why he has the back up so high
The shocks would be bad. Not the springs in the front
Pulling one way or another during acceleration is generally either rear alignment or bad trailing arm bushings. Trailing arm bushings are a pain in the #ss to replace, but a very doable do it yourself project. Not an expensive DIY, but a shop will nail you pretty hard to do it.
If there is no rust problems in the frame or birdcage and you are capable of doing your own work, I wouldn't worry about the suspension and steering much. It's not that expensive to rebuild, as long as you do it yourself.
Pulling one way or another during acceleration is generally either rear alignment or bad trailing arm bushings. Trailing arm bushings are a pain in the #ss to replace, but a very doable do it yourself project. Not an expensive DIY, but a shop will nail you pretty hard to do it.
If there is no rust problems in the frame or birdcage and you are capable of doing your own work, I wouldn't worry about the suspension and steering much. It's not that expensive to rebuild, as long as you do it yourself.
Mike
I can do the work my self with no problems. The only thing I can't do it paint. It has a few others issues like wipers don't work, missing parts and the battery was relocated to under the hood but it looks like a pretty sound car. It does have later model seats which I would change out some time down the road.
In the early 90s a buddys dad got cheated on 3 c3s he bought from a place pretending to be a vette shop,
So my buddy being a very savvy gear head but very aspergers tore all 3 down to parts and made 2 nice cars he re engineered things that he felt gm failed on one peeve he had was battery behind driver, so he mounted it up front, the fun part it too was a 68 convertible....
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by lan240
I can do the work my self with no problems. The only thing I can't do it paint. It has a few others issues like wipers don't work, missing parts and the battery was relocated to under the hood but it looks like a pretty sound car. It does have later model seats which I would change out some time down the road.
ok then get the car on jacks and pull on the wheels at 3&9 and 6&12 and generally in and out. that will tell you a lot about the suspension/bearings/tie rods
In the early 90s a buddys dad got cheated on 3 c3s he bought from a place pretending to be a vette shop,
So my buddy being a very savvy gear head but very aspergers tore all 3 down to parts and made 2 nice cars he re engineered things that he felt gm failed on one peeve he had was battery behind driver, so he mounted it up front, the fun part it too was a 68 convertible....
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
you said a deal....not really our business to ask the price....but consider this...assuming it has a clean title not salvaged. just my thoughts others may disagree
a deal under 12k
a deal under 13k
14k better understand what the mechanical issues are
15k if all mechanicals are good probably a deal
16k if all mechanicals are good probably a deal
17k all mechanicals need to be good
18k all mechanicals need to be good and not many minor issues to deal with
above 18 K wheres the deal?
1968 Convertible
if it passes the rust questions, ( no, its not rust free ) 
